carlos_prado2

<p>Hello</p> <p>I'm getting back into processing my own film after many years and would like to hear some suggestions on what is the best darkroom film processing notebook I can purchase for writing down all my: times, temps, dilutions, etc...</p> <p>Thank you all in advance,</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>I am using my Microtek i900 to scan my negatives and make contact sheets.</p> <p>Its a real pain to place each strip of film, individually, on the scanner in order to scan the whole roll together and make a contact sheet.</p> <p>I was hoping someone has solved this problem and knows of some clear archival storage pages that fit on the 8x10 scanning area of my scanner and will allow me to make contact sheet of entire roll of film.</p> <p>Thank you very much in advance,</p> <p>carlos</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hello</p> I recently purchased an Hy6 camera that came with a Xenotar 80mm PQS lens. Before buying the Hy6, I shot with an Exakta66 and 80mm Xenotar years ago, and fell in love with the results. The Xenotar produced neutral tones with beautiful Bokeh. So, when I finally had the money to get the Hy6, I thought I was getting my dream camera. Unfortunately, the PQS lens is not rendering the same way. 1) It seems to be cooler 2) It's really contrasty. (I think these modern coatings the give us “pop”, might be just marketing junk.) I was thinking of getting the older: Xenotar 80mm PQ, in order to reclaim some of the qualities I loved about the Xenotar on my EXAKTA66. (I'm assuming the PQ has the older coatings.) Is this the way to go? Is there a better and cheaper route to get what I want? Thanks,

<p>David</p> <p>The V500 has a transparency scan area for large negatives?</p> <p>I so, what is the biggest negative I can scan?</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Carlos</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>I have a very small home office that is already packed with photo equipment.</p> <p>I would like to get a scanner for making my own digital contact sheets for my 120 PORTRA film negatives.</p> <p>I was hoping to get some suggestions on small scanners that will allow me to scan my 120 film and make contact sheets.</p> <p>I usually cut my 120 film in to 4 strips of 3-frames each. then I place them in archival pages.</p> <p>thanks,</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>Yes, I tried transparency, negative, color, etc...</p> <p>I still only get a black and white contact. </p> <p>Can you please tell me what settings I should be using with VUESCAN?</p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>I own an all-in-one that has a scanner. </p> <p>I would like to make contact sheets with it, but its only for reflective.</p> <p>However, I read this article and tried to recreate the results:</p> <p>http://www.shutterbug.com/content/making-digital-contact-sheets-negatives-hybrid-solution-filmdigital-photographer#pdFk5I5B7vgP001o.97</p> <p>I got as far as making B&W contact sheets from my C-41 film. Unfortunately, I cannot get the color information.</p> <p>I am using VUESCAN and tried everything I can think of.</p> <p>I could really use some help.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>watson</p> <p>Im looking at the university site. Can you tell me which pages will fit the "sleeved" strips?</p> <p>Also, you seem well informed. Maybe you can help me with another issue. I recently started shooting film again. I sent my C-41 120 negs to North Coast Photographic Services. After some research they seemed like a good choice. Unfortunately, my negs came back with water stains, or chemical stains.</p> <p>Would you kindly suggest a "dip and dunk" lab that does exceptional work?</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>I cut my 120mm 6x6 color negatives into strips of 3-frames each.</p> <p>I do his because I scan the film and this arrangement is the best for my particular scanner.</p> <p>I also get the film back from the lab, sleeved , but uncut.</p> <p>I cut the film myself into the strips of 3-frames, but I do not remove the sleeve they came in.</p> <p>I would like to find some archival, binder pages, that allow me to store my "sleeved" strips of 3-frames, in them.</p> <p>However, I cannot find archival pages that accept sleeved film, that is cut into strips or 3-frames.</p> <p>I would really love it if someone here might be able to help me out.</p> <p>Thank you in advance,</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>Hi everyone,</p> <p>I need a suggestion for a small and cheap flatbed scanner I can use for making contact sheets.</p> <p>I am currently shooing 120 PORTRA and the lab sends me the film processed, but uncut or without contact sheets.</p> <p>they charge too much for them.</p> <p>I would rather do it myself, but don't want to spend a great deal for a scanner that will only be used for contact sheets.</p> <p>I also don't have much room left in my office.</p> <p>I could really use some suggestions,</p> <p>Thanks everyone in advance,</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>I just purchased a Flextight Precision II scanner and am planning on connecting it to a 64-bit WIN 7 machine. I noticed some posts on this thread that lead me to believe it can be done. </p> <p>However, this thread is a few years old, and I was hoping that the original contributors might be able to offer any new tips or insights?</p> <p>Thanks so much,</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>I am hand rolling my own film using the AP- Bobinquick 135 bulk loader.</p> <p>After processing, I cut my film into strips of 5-frames each and place the strips into pages that hold five of the cut strips. So, each page holds a total of 30 frames, max.</p> <p>My question is, what should the length of the front and rear "leaders" be, and what should I set the frame counter to - on my Bobinquick - in order to get exactly "30 FRAMES" from each roll?</p> <p>Please see attached image.</p> <p>(by the way, I am using a LEICA M4, if that makes a difference.)</p><div></div>

<p>Ok, If I cannot use "Camera Profiles" on my scanned RAW images - which I understand are not really RAW images - what can I do to get better color accuracy?</p> <p>I can use a Whibal card for the "white balance" correction. I thinks that pretty easy to do in ACR.</p> <p>However, I still don't know how to use the "black" and "white" portions of the card to correct "color balance" in Photoshop. (unless this can also be done in ACR)</p> <p>The person that taught me color printing explained that if I get the "whites" and "blacks" neutralized in an image, that pretty much takes care of 99% of the color issues in an image.</p> <p>So, can anyone tell me how to use the Whibal card to achieve this with "Slide Film" that has been scanned?</p> <p>For example, do I take a shot of a Whibal card at the beginning of each roll? But then, how do I use it for all images?</p> <p> </p>

<p>How do I open it in ACR once I convert to smart object?</p>

<p>Yes, you are correct.</p> <p>And yet, I read a forum post, some time ago, discussing a work-around.</p> <p>I cannot find that post and am hoping someone on this forum can help.</p>