cabbiinc

<p>The advantage that the Elan IIe has is the eye controlled focus. The camera monitors what you're looking at through the viewfinder and uses that for it's focus point. This can be overridden of course and just use one of 3 focus points or let the camera auto detect from those three.</p>

<p>1st, click File> Save Options. This saves what you have now in the settings.</p> <p>Try changing the Output Colorspace (Color Tab in advanced mode) to either Device RGB or ProPhoto RGB or if those don't work Adobe RGB. Some experimentation should get you to seeing things much closer to the preview in Vuescan.<br> Also check the monitor color space if that fails (leave it alone if you get it working properly).</p> <p>If you screw things up worse than what it is you can reload the Options that you saved, or reload defaults and start over.</p>

<p>The T3i does have Spot Meter. It needs to be in a Creative mode (P, Tv, Av, M, A Dep). Second red menu, third item.</p>

<p>What size power supply do you have? Make sure it's got well more than enough to handle everything connected to your mobo. Some people like to skimp on this part, but it bites you in the end. I should also add that sometimes the manufacturers skimp on this too, and the buyer is none the wiser.</p>

<p>Mark, I'd Google to see if anyone has had any problems with the YN ST-E2 and your camera model. I had to quit using mine when I found out the T3i I had just bought wouldn't fire the unit.</p> <p>The ratios control flash power. A 1:1 ratio means that both A and B are exposing at the same level. This isn't the same as firing at the same level. A 1:2 ratio means that A is half the exposure that B is. A 2:1 ratio means that B is half the exposure that A is. There are a few other things that you can set, but it all resets when you turn the YN ST-E2 off and on.</p>

<p>While Hamrick doesn't save the old versions, there are other locations on the web to find them. I believe you can find the link from Hamrick's site itself.</p> <p>I've found that Vuescan's IR clean doesn't work on any flatbed I've tried it with. It works great with my Canon FS4000US and Nikon LS-2000 though. The difference is that the dedicated film scanners communicate better with Vuescan. Or at least that's my suspicion. I've asked Hamrick a few times to try to work on realigning layers once they're on the computer and he just doesn't see the need. Says I'm the only person who sees any problems so it must be me.</p>

<p>Also Corel has some tutorials here http://learn.corel.com/photo/courses/welcome<br> Scroll down to the Paintshop Pro section. (hopefully the link works properly) It's for X7 but most things that it covers will also apply to X5.</p>

<p>If you haven't found it yet Corel has a PSP forum full of folks who use the program all the time. Most of the old timers have used X5 (current version is X7). http://forum.corel.com/EN/viewforum.php?f=56</p>

<p>If this is motion picture film, does that mean it's cut down from 70mm or something similar?</p>

<p>^ There's a few other things that are pro only. Document feeders and OCR file output. Do keep in mind that this only affects newer versions of Vuescan. If you've got an older version that works just fine then there's no change.</p>

<p>I've seen a few people recommend N-flash.</p>

<p>Vuescan is about your only option. It's clunky too, but in a different way. Those that usually like Silverfast don't like Vuescan, and those that like Vuescan don't like Silverfast, with the exception of those that don't like either. You'll need the pro license as opposed to the standard one to scan film. But Vuescan works on just about any scanner you throw at it, and the pro license has lifetime upgrades. So even if there's a scanner that hasn't been designed yet on an OS that's not yet released Vuescan will likely work with it for that first initial price.</p>

<p>I have the 40D and the live view histogram is identical to the captured image as far as I can see. I've tried a few things to make the camera not do that and the only thing that affects it is a flash. Are you using flash? I'd assume not if you're shooting landscapes but I'd thought I'd ask.</p>

<p>For home scanning there's a few options.</p> <p>New there's Plustek scanners. If he's shooting color make sure the scanner has IR dust removal. It costs just a bit more but it's worth it when you want it. Opticfilm 8200i for example has IR dust removal, where the 8100 doesn't.<br /> If you want a scanner that does a poorer job on the film but also scans prints then an Epson flatbed is your best bet, but the results with film aren't super.</p> <p>Used there's the Nikon scanners that have already been mentioned. There's also the Minoltas. The Scan Elite 5400 and Multi Pro scanners are on par with Nikon scanners. </p> <p>If you buy used, make certain that there's a decent return policy and the seller will honor it. If the seller is charging top dollar but claims that they have no way to test the unit then move to the next seller. Anyone charging top dollar for these should know what they're talking about.</p>

<p>If you're still seeing more red than should be there the next step is to reset the program to defaults and start over. But first save your current setup, File> Save Options. Then File> Default Options.<br> The next step would be to try the scanner on another computer and see if that works any better.</p>