brian_cannon1

I haven't been using the central column. That has to be it. (Sound of hand smacking head . . . ) Thank you very much everyone; I very much appreciate your quick responses.

I've having a consistent problem, and I'm wondering whether others have faced the same issue: I only get about 8 good frames from developing 120 film on a Paterson reel -- the 4-5 frames on the inner part of the reel, i.e., the first portion of the film threaded in, are completely black. I'm using Tri-X and D76. The frames on the outside, i.e., the last ones to be threaded onto the reel, come out perfectly. I suspect I have somehow threaded the film incorrectly, but it's happened several times now. I've processed 35mm on Paterson reels in the past and not had this issue. Thank you for any input.

<p>@Stephen: on the negatives, some but not all of the 12 frames seemed darker on one side. It wasn't totally apparent to me reviewing the negatives, but the prints certainly came out that way. The scan seemed to accentuate the effect as well.<br> @JDM: I measured 500 ml, but perhaps I should be using more volume to make sure.</p>

<p>I've been using Rodinal stand development for 120 Tri-X film, and I've generally liked the results. Prints from recent batches however seem too light in portions on one side, as if the developer "settled" in the tank and developed some portions of the film more than others -- darkening parts of the negative, thus lightening the print. I'm using 1:100 dilution, 500 ml total, 60 seconds of agitation to start, sit for 1 hour undisturbed. Wouldn't agitating more frequently defeat the purpose of stand development? Is this a phenomenon others have experienced? Thanks for any input! Here are a couple of examples, which are scans of prints:</p> <p>http://www.photo.net/photo/18317683<img src="/photo/18317683" alt="" /></p>

<p>Hi there, I've lurked for a good while and learned a lot from the forums, especially B&W film processing and printing. I'm from Ireland originally (Donegal up on the north coast), spent some time in East Sussex in England, and have made Palo Alto, California my home for the past 20 years. B&W film photography is primarily what I like to do. I started with 35 mm, but found the size of the film tricky to handle physically. I've settled into medium format. I've set up a darkroom in my spare bathroom (what my 16-year old son sarcastically calls the "meth lab"), and am an absolute beginner in printing but thoroughly enjoying the process. Creating something analog from beginning to end and holding a print has turned out to be very rewarding. I scan some of my negatives and post them on Instagram if anyone is interested in checking them out: https://www.instagram.com/roversphoto/<br> All the best,<br> Brian</p>

<p>Tri-X and HP5 may be from the same vintage, but I find them to be quite different -- at least in the processes that I am using. Some people love HP5, but I never have. I find it to be too grey and like "oatmeal" if that makes sense. I have to add a lot of contrast in printing or in Lightroom after scanning the negative to get the look I have in mind. Maybe you have already done your trip, but definitely try out a roll of HP5 to see if you like it!</p>

<p>Following advice from various sources I used to always use a filter with B&W film -- yellow as standard, and red and orange for more dramatic effects. However, the filters made me lose at least stop of light, which wasn't worth it for the yellow filter as it seemed only to make a minimal impact on the photo. Recently I have dropped the yellow filter, and any extra punch of contrast that I need I add when printing or in Lightroom. For the red filter, however, the effect is much greater and can't be simulated after the fact (as far as I know). Out and about on the street I don't think filters are much help, which might be contrary to conventional wisdom. For landscapes and planned portraits, however, they can be very nice. </p>

<p>Hello, I like Kodak Tri-X pushed to 800 or higher for street photography and impromptu portrait work. I like Ilford Delta 100 for more considered portraits where I have some control over the lighting. I develop both with Kodak D-76. I'm relatively new to B&W film photography so I'm enjoying reading everyone's responses and insights.</p> <p> </p>