Found one! Ironically, it's a lab that I used to use extensively years ago: West Coast Imaging. They've downsized a bit and changed their name to Metal and Paper, but I had a nice talk with one of the print-makers there and it sounds like they're doing the sort of high-end, personalized printing that they used to do. Anyway I'm going to try them out (again).
Interesting story: I talked with someone at another lab (that a fellow photographer had recommended), and it turned out that they didn't actually do their own printinging....they were out-sourcing it to an out-of-state business and never even looked at the images! (so obviously they had no interest in looking at proofs, etc.)