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brian_alworth1

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  1. Found one! Ironically, it's a lab that I used to use extensively years ago: West Coast Imaging. They've downsized a bit and changed their name to Metal and Paper, but I had a nice talk with one of the print-makers there and it sounds like they're doing the sort of high-end, personalized printing that they used to do. Anyway I'm going to try them out (again). Interesting story: I talked with someone at another lab (that a fellow photographer had recommended), and it turned out that they didn't actually do their own printinging....they were out-sourcing it to an out-of-state business and never even looked at the images! (so obviously they had no interest in looking at proofs, etc.)
  2. I am looking for a high-end pro lab to make large metal prints from drum scans of medium and large format slides and negatives. But I want a lab that still does customer service. Every place I've seen uses automated roes software....does not accept (or send) proofs....doesn't accept phone calls. In fact there seems to be no human intervention at all. I figure if I'm going to spend several hundred dollars, I'd like someone at the lab to actually work with me at least a little bit. Are there still labs like that? I still have fond memories of West Coast Imaging.....
  3. I've actually got a couple of M series lenses from the old days when I started with 35mm. From what I can tell, shooting with these lenses would be possible but somewhat difficult as you have to change settings and do stop-down metering, etc. I would spring for the 24-70 mm Pentax zoom, but I've read that it's not a very sharp lens...and also I am afraid I will miss the aperature ring. Just seems like a lot to spend if the first thing I'm going to do is dis-able the autofocus anyway.
  4. Thanks for all the great and detailed advice. Was going to ask about using older "A" series Pentax lenses, though. Since I'm probably going to switch immediately to manual focus anyway, not really concerned about autofocus issues. In fact I'd really rather have an old-fashion lens with an aperture ring. My perception is that older lenses may actually be more robust anyway....altho some obviously sharper than others. But if I can find some used prime "A" lenses for sale that might be preferable? Any thoughts?
  5. I am a landscape/fine-art photographer that is about to purchase my first digital camera. I've been shooting with a Pentax 67 (and Wista 4x5) for years and plan to continue to use them. I am probably going to buy the new Pentax K1 but am unsure about which lens or lenses to buy with it. I do mainly landscapes and always use a substantial tripod. Sharpness more important than speed. Was going to buy the new Pentax 24-70 zoom but have seen very mixed reviews on this. Maybe I should just buy a 24, a 50 and maybe a moderate telephoto? Looking for advice.
  6. As a quick follow-up i got some of my 120 film back from the lab and the Pentax 67 worked fine. Despite the fact that most shots were taken below zero. I am now a believer in the camera and Varta lithium batteries.
  7. I still shoot mostly 120 on old P67 and 6x7 cameras. However just got back from a trip where i was shooting sunrise shots well below zero and am now concerned as to whether the old cameras were working. Thinking i might get a Pentax K1 to use as insurance camera.
  8. <p>BTW John you must be the other guy still ordering Velvia 100.... :)</p>
  9. <p>Probably a good idea for next time. Either that or one of those remote battery cables so you can keep a battery pack in your pocket. I actually did have two cameras....but one was an old Pentax 67, and the other was an even older Pentax 6x7! lol My guess is that the first roll or two I shot each morning will be fine...but with more problems as the cameras and batteries cooled down. One thing that may help is that those old P67's are massive heavy cameras, especially with the lenses attached....so take a while to cool down.</p>
  10. <p>Just got back from a week's shooting at Bryce Canyon, Utah. Great snow conditions but brutally cold. My sunrise shooting temps ranged from 0 to as low as -15 (F°). What are my chances of properly exposed shots? The camera (P67 MLU) sounded as if it were working normally (I'm now very familiar with the noises it makes). And while the battery light would fade quickly...after about one roll.... the mirror lock-up was still working for 2 or 3 rolls. Used a new lithium battery. But i keep seeing horror stories about blank film, shutter curtains not working, etc. Any thoughts? This was one of the first times I was envious of the guy next to me with a digital camera....getting instant feedback.</p>
  11. <p> I am a long-time film photographer and still do quite a bit of medium (120) and large format (4x5)landscape photography. I am finally getting frustrated by my inability to market my work and am looking for a flatbed scanner that will allow me to digitize my transparancies and negatives. I am not so much interested in making high quality prints (I allow my labs to do that via drum scanners or old-fashioned darkrooms ) but am looking for something that will give me decent jpegs I can put on a web page, for example. I've seen the Epson V750 mentioned...is this still a good choice? </p>
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