brent_pennelly

Thanks. While it is easy to attach the back, it is definitely more difficult to detach. My A12 backs slide off by gravity if I pull the release on them (well, the body would fall off if I hold the back and slide the release lever). The CFV would not do this. I guess the back must have some deviation from the factory tolerances. I'll talk with Hasselblad about it. The back tolerance is the bigger issue for me as it being easier to remove would make it easier to swap in the field. If it doesn't cost much more to repair the electronics then I can ask them to do that as well, assuming the cost to fix the tolerance issue is reasonable.

Are you saying the CFV should be as easy to remove from the body as an A12 back? I feel that would be too loose for such a heavy back that requires such precise alignment. The only other CFV back I tried out was the same--it takes more force to pull the back from the body, but they do disengage. I can't imagine both backs weren't machined well. I do not feel the tightness is at all related to the release latch--it seems more related to the latch prongs themselves are likely thicker than the A12 back, leading to a tighter fit with the female portion of the latch on the body. I will give Hasselblad a call, though I do not believe CFV repairs are cheap by any means, and I may just opt instead to live with the firewire issue, as the back still functions great overall. I am still considering buying a dedicated body for the CFV, as I think that would solve the bigger issue, which is the ease of changing backs in the field (and the risk of damaging the sensor when doing so).

Ed-- my back does have the safety release for the main latch. What I mean is the back is a tight fit when trying to pull it from the camera body. A12 backs are very easy to attach/remove, whereas the CFV is fairly easy to attach, but requires two hands to remove. It does not feel like I am forcing the back off--it just feels like the back was built with very tight tolerances (probably to ensure proper fit--A12 backs can shift a little around on the body). The back I had tried previously back in January was the same. I will give B&H a call after I try using a re-installed version of Phocus. I am not sure if they would be willing to send me a replacement Firewire cable if I can't say with certainty that their cable is the problem or if it's my CFV, but it's worth asking them.

The back does have the safety--it's just a very tight fit so it's hard to remove the back, particularly with having to manipulate the safety release in addition to the standard release. I am using a Mac, and I purchased a brand new firewire cable from B&H. There are no visible kinks or problems with the cable. Given the back's age I wonder if there could be a problem with the firewire connection on the back? Though it works well enough to charge the internal battery and establish a good enough connection to tell me Phocus in controlling the back (when Phocus is open). I tried installing the firmware on the CF card--that worked ok. Previously when I tried it asked me to connect the firewire, which I didn't want to do because I interpreted that to mean it was still going to update via the Firewire. When I tried again just now (with it connected to the firewire to charge) it worked fine--it looks like the back just wanted to be powered by the firewire, as Phocus wasn't even open. I still get the same firewire error when I try to register the product through Phocus. I also still can't see any of the files in the CF card through Phocus. But the back still otherwise works fine. Is it normal for the CFV to not show up as a connected disk when plugged in via firewire?

I was fortunate enough to have another chance to acquire a CFV at a good deal from a nice guy locally. Fortunately this time it works--no issues with capturing the image, with a dying speaker, endless alarm sounds, etc. For reference, I use it with a recently CLA'd 501C. I'm hoping someone can help me with a few questions. None are critical problems, and my hunch is to leave things as they are. I am using a firwire cable to both try to charge the internal battery (in case it still works at all and can hold a charge). When I plug it in and open Phocus, Phocus asks me if I want to register it. I answer "yes" and then the back alarms and lists error firewire #9002, restart back. I try and it doesn't fix anything. I also don't seem to be able to upload any files from the back into Phocus, nor can I upload them from the CF card into Phocus anymore--I was able to upload via CF card prior to updating Phocus, but after I uploaded it Phocus doesn't show any thumbnails. I don't see any "dummy" error causing it, but I'm sure I'm doing something stupid. Once the back charges I can also try to reinstall Phocus if there's no easy fix. Any idea on the error code? I did get the error once or twice when trying to access the CF card via Phocus. Now when I access it I just don't see any files in the folder. (Note, I can upload files fine through a CF card reader using Lightroom. Is there any reason to use Phocus instead of Lightroom? Does Phocus allow you to cancel out dead pixels or anything? Right now I'm running firmware 267, which is the second-to-last one release (270 is the most recent). It doesn't look like 270 had that much of an update (it looks like I can just user a bigger CF card, but 16gb and 32gb are way more than enough for me). I don't want to updated the firmware because there's a warning saying if the camera comes unplugged you basically risk bricking the unit. Seeing as I'm getting this error code and the back works great and isn't easy to replace (or repair--if even still serviced), it doesn't seem worth it to risk updating the firmware for what appears to be a minor improvement that I wouldn't use. Last question-the back fits tightly (as did the one I tested out prior). I assume this is quite normal. Do those of you who use a CFV typically have a dedicated body for it? I'm just curious over the long-term if it increases the risk of damaging my camera body if I'm swapping backs out, since I still plan to shoot B&W film.

That makes sense that we should know if the new design has any weaknesses. Does the GLS still have mirror pads that can degrade, or does the GLS solve that problem? And is it inevitable that mirror pads will degrade in the first place?

I appreciate both of your input. I guess I should rephrase my question: Assuming I CLA either body, is either one any more likely to require less maintenance over time? Or is the presence of the GLS in the 501CM really not make much difference?

I currently have a 501C (no gliding mirror). I'm considering sending it in for a CLA in the next year or two, but given the cost of a CLA, am wondering if it's more worthwhile to buy a 501CM and CLA a higher quality body. I'm in my 30's, and plan to use my camera for a long, long time. One of my worries is repair people and parts for Hasselblads won't be around 20 years from now. (Well, that and if film will still be around, but I'm hoping 120 B&W film will still have a market) My question is if there is really any reason to use a 501CM over a 501C if I don't use long focal length lenses (120mm with extension is the longest I use. 150mm or 160mm is the longest I see myself ever using, though I have no immediate plans to buy either). To me, the GLS adds more complexity to the camera, which I would think makes the 501C the more reliable camera. But I think I read somewhere that the 501CM, because of the GLS, doesn't have the mirror pads that the 501C has, which sometimes degrade and cause focusing problems. In addition, I may acquire a CFV back in the future. I tested out a used CFV 16 which didn't work properly and I had to return it. It seemed like it'd be nice to have if it worked properly, though I'm not a fan of the crop factor, and I will most likely just prefer to spend those thousands of dollars on film and have the nice ones drum scanned. But still, there's a small possibility I'd get one someday. Basically I'm trying to think long-term here.

<p>Final update: I tried calling Hasselblad today but unfortunately I didn't get off work in time and they just closed. I did get to talk to the seller though--they said if for whatever reason the back gets bricked during a firmware update (I figure that's the only option left at this time) then it would not be covered under their return policy or their warranty. It may be the exact thing they try when they get it, but given the cost of the back and how much I had to stretch my budget to get even a used CFV 16, it just isn't worth the risk of doing it myself. </p>

<p>I tried a new battery, new CF card (formatted--on the computer and camera), and used a 203FE. Still no luck--the images still aren't saving. <br> <br />That leaves just updating the firmware (unless Hasselblad has anything else to say on Monday). Hopefully most of the problems I'm having the the alarm/freezing up are due to the card not fully syncing, which will hopefully be resolved by a firmware update. <br> The speaker isn't going to be fixed by that as I assume it's just the speaker has aged/broken down so it cannot produce the correct notes anymore, but if the firmware fixes the problems then hopefully I won't hear any alarms in the first place. <br> <br />I ordered the Hasselblad FW800 cable. It's expensive, but I figure it's worth the shot since I felt I got a good deal on this back considering it's condition--but that assumes that it works!!</p>

<p>I'm going to have to special order the FW800--the one I had is too large. According to the firmware instructions you need to plug it in, so I guess I can't transfer the firmware via the CF card.<br> Can you confirm if I was looking at the right firmware for the back? the R270 firmware. <br> I'm going to try to call Hasselblad on Monday, but I don't think I'll be bringing my camera to work, so all I can do is troubleshoot a little over the phone, then try the updates when I get home. Most likely I can't get a FW800 cable that fits until Mon/Tues/Wed at the earliest. It looks like TetherPro makes a 15ft cable they say works with the CFV 50, but it's 15ft long. I'll probably just try to expedite one of the short Hasselblad ones from B&H</p>

<p>It took a while of searching, but it looks like the firmware is here:<br> http://www.hasselblad.com/support/manuals/medium-format-firmware/<br> I take it that I need the R270 firmware for "CF-22/MS, 39/MS, CFII-22/MS, 39/MS, CFV, CFVII, CFV-39, 503CWD" correct? The CFV and CFVII refer to the 16mp backs?<br> If anyone has the most recent firmware, can you tell me what it reads when you check it? I'm assuming it would read "270" as opposed to the "168" mine says, but I just want to double-check</p>

<p>How/where do you get the latest firmware? And is there any way to install it from the CF card? My firewire cable is too thick to fit into the back.<br> <br />I will try formatting the CF card and see if that helps. I get a CF reader today as well (I didn't realize the back wouldn't work with my firewire cable, and it didn't come with the Hasselblad one)</p> <p>Why is using the mechanical exposure coupling less reliable in a 501C compared to a late 501CM?</p>

<p>I picked up a used CVF 16. It's giving me quite a few problems, but I have another two weeks to return it. I was hoping to get some input on whether anyone else has had these problems as well. I've tried calling Hasselblad-Bron (USA) service, but I'm guessing they're closed today as no one is picking up the phone.<br /> <br />The back came from a very reputable seller--they will take it back. The serial number suggests it was made in 2006. It has 1006 actuations and "on time" of 3 days, 20 hours, 9 minutes. <br /> <br />Here are the problems I'm having (I have the instruction manual--it, as well as a forum-search, have not been helpful)<br /> 1) The back is not saving <em>any</em> images. CF card is brand new. I ordered a replacement CF card in case it's the problem. When the back boots up it reads "no media" at the top right, but this changes to "card." I'm not sure if that's the normal booting process. It always reads "empty batch" when it finishes booting. Often randomly it'll say "bad image" when I try to delete the image I took. <br /> 2) For a short while the back wasn't even capturing images. It's tough to tell, but the screen would change just as when I took a photo, but it would be blank. I could still get to the menu. This went away after I removed the battery and put it back in. Just seemed a little odd. For all I know it was capturing the image, but because of problem #1, there's no way to actually tell. <br /> 3) The alarm sounds terrible. I gather it used to be a chime sounds, but now it sounds like a speaker on it's last leg. I turned off all sound, but it will still go off at what seem to be random times, like if I try to zoom in on an image, etc. A few times the alarm would not stop--the only way to get it to stop was to remove the battery.<br /> 4) The red warning light will often flash at those times and won't stop--often with a "low exposure warning" and a random blip every so often. I can't turn the back off at those times--the only way to do so is to remove the battery. <br /> 5) The fan seems rather loud--is that normal? How often do you find the fan comes on in normal usage?<br> <br /> I have tried taking about 50 shots, all to no avail. Not a single one has stored.</p> <p>I do know the speaker is dying. That part is pretty clear. I tried restoring default functions. I will get a new battery to try out today (in addition to the other CF card), but I doubt that's the issue, as mine is fully charged. Just wondering if anyone else has had issues like this and if they were easily remedied. I get this is an aging back, but if it can't actually capture images and makes a terrible sound at inopportune times, it's definitely going to get returned.<br> <br /> I am using the back on a 501C. I have it set for the 500 series. Exposure time at <1/8th second. Firmware revision 168.</p>

<p>I have darkslide holders (small thin rigid pouches that fit between the liner and canvas of my bag). They actually used to be the old Lowepro film back holders but I wasn't using them for that purpose and cut off the extra fabric so I just had a thin darkslide protector (which was integrated into the rigid back portion of the holder)<br> <br />I was afraid the holder would be integrated. I heard from another person on a different forum that it just peels off, but I don't want to attempt that unless someone has first hand knowledge that it comes off without damaging the back. </p>