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borrel1

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  1. <p>Do it! You won't regret it. I had my bellows and lightmeter wires fixed by Plaubel in Germany. My 67 is usually chosen before the Hasselblad, Rolleiflex or Mamiya Universal because of portability. The results are also astounding: http://abdallah.hiof.no/2010_montejaque/html/20100806_061300.html</p>
  2. <p>A changing bag indeed. If you use film regularly, it's the best investment after your camera. To make it really useful, get a large one for emergencies like you have now for loading tanks for home development. The larger the better. It can get quite clammy when loading several reels. And also get a small one for travel. When in Amsterdam some years ago, I stripped the perforations at the last frame putting me in much the same situation you are in. Went into a photography shop just before closing time and asked if they could help. Same answer as you got. But when asked if they had a changing bag someone lit up and brought it out of a shelf. None of them knew how to use it. 3 minutes later I had the film back in the cassette, all smiles. Now my smallest changing bag always comes travelling. It's a life saver.</p>
  3. <p>Medium format for street photography? You need something light, unobtrusive, and above all quiet. The only camera that fits that description would be one of the TLRs like a Rolleiflex / Rolleicord or Yashicamat. If you have to hold the camera to your eye, they have "sports finders", but the real advantage of the TLR is the unobtrusiveness of the waist level finder. You'll get used to the reverse image quickly and the shutter is virtually silent. Get a Yashicamat to see if you like it and then exchange it for a Rolleiflex for better quality. The Rolleis were so well made they last forever - and there are still quite a few reliable repairshops.</p>
  4. <p>Anywhere in Europe these meters can be repaired?</p>
  5. <p>The Ai Spoiler has been sitting on my desk for over a year and the other day I slit my first films, which was surprisingly easy. Before going through the logistics of the operation, I didn't realise how easy it actually is. Having loaded the 35mm cassette with the requisite length of film, the only part of the operation requiring a changing bag was the slitting itself and inserting the two rolls into the film side of the Minox cassettes. The rest was done in daylight. However, I worry that the foam pressure plate of the slitter will accumulate enough debris or abrasive particles over time to cause scratches and am therefore looking into getting a roller type slitter instead.</p>
  6. <p><a href="http://abdallah.hiof.no/photography/minox/filmslitter.jpg"><img src="http://abdallah.hiof.no/photography/minox/filmslitter.jpg" alt="Al Spoil filmslitter for Minox" width="960" /></a>My "Al Spoil" film slitter for 9.2mm Minox film.</p>
  7. <p>This is my rig for 135: <a href="http://abdallah.hiof.no/pb-4/">http://abdallah.hiof.no/pb-4/</a> You would have to compensate for the APS-C size sensor. I use a Micro-Nikkor 55/3.5 lens (not mounted in the picture) which is sufficient to digitize 120 with no additional tubes or bellows. (But that does require a different setup to hold the 120 film or slides.) My light source is a Kick (Rift Labs.) LED panel.</p>
  8. <p><strong><a href="http://tinyurl.com/qbxb4kq/">http://tinyurl.com/qbxb4kq</a></strong></p>
  9. I think Sais needs to tell us what form of Polaroids (s)he wants to scan - positive print or 665/55 negatives.
  10. On an Epson 4990 (now V70?): http://abdallah.hiof.no/mamiya-665/index.html -Børre
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