bob_maichin

<p>This is an old thread, but I do have first hand experience with the issue of FAST manual focus lenses on Nikon D7000 ( and D300, D2X, D700) . The problem only occurs with lenses faster than F3.5. This is unfortunate since the D7000 has the great focus confirmation dot and pointers system that work so well on my D2X and D700. Auto focus is fine on my 50mm f1.4 AF-D on all my four Nikon DSLRs, including the D7000. <br> Unfortunately, the main reason for using MF lenses at all is for lens speed. My prime culprit is my fastest lens - a 50mm f1.2 AIS. This lens can scale focus perfectly and that setting will agree with a D7000 LiveView focus. This is fine for landscapes and night shots off a tripod. Any attempt at using the viewfinder manually is pointless since the focus is not accurate and beyond the range of the dot and pointer "trigger on points". <br> I tried a split image screen with little success and would not recommend that as any solution. I went back to the factory screen since it was brighter and the "dot" system was better for most slower lenses ( 200 f4, 135 f3.5, even my 500 f8 in good light ). The issue of RF circle "black out" with lenses slower than f2.8 makes those screens useless for me. I finally gave up with the fast glass on the D7000 after this. <br> Cameras I owned prior to the D7000 worked well with the f1.2 lens. My D300 and D2X both worked well, but I took the f1.2 lens out of my bag when shooting the D7000.<br> My personal solution was a used FX D700 which has no problem at all with any of my fast prime MF glass and recreates the retro feel - and weight - of a 35mm outfit.</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>Why does everyone here think the Nikon Matrix metering is infallible? Why do you think they put the f5 on the menu? I have owned dozens of matrix metering Nikons from my two FA'a to my D2X and D7100 and they all exhibit the same problem of overexposure. Nikon even pumps extra exposure into the shadows with their flash system to make sure your kids faces are burned out.This was good when I was using Tri-X, but those days are gone. Center-weighted metering helps, but in bright light the cameras just seem to run out of light sensitivity above EV16. This makes any summer activity with grass and water a situation that calls for a lot of negative exposure compensation. I shot some photos in a steel mill during a pour from an open hearth furnace and made sure I used known values from experience rather than let the meter try to save the shadows.<br> My D200 made an effort at preserving the highlights, perhaps too much so. On the newer cameras I need to dial in at least -1 stop exposure compensation in most cases in bright light. I use a bit more on the water, like in Venice when you see the highlight of your cruise washed out without -1.5 EV. Thankfully, this is pretty easy if you have the ability to accurately check your monitor display. Not easy on a sunny day! <br> When I shoot landscapes I always bracket and have never found the + exposures usable. I brought my D90 in for service and it shot fabulously at the Nikon Service Center in Melville - where the walls are all bright white.<br> Nikon should paint their work areas a nice dark green or purple - that might make their metering adjustments more accurate.</p>