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bill_force

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  1. As suspected I receive alternatives but no concrete answers to my problem. If you're not brain dead of course Nikon has new expensive programs but I have 5 Nikon older D series cameras and Capture 3.5, and all I use is the camera/laptop tethering. I don't want an alternative all I want is the alterations to make what I have work. If you don't want to answer my question then please don't offer an unworkable alternative PLEASE. The question is "does anyone know the words that have to be placed into the ALTERED start up menu string in Windows XP with service packs 2 or 3 as they Blue Screen when the ICON is called to operate, simple yes or no will do nicely. As I originally stated, there was a thread some time back that described the alterations to the start-up menu commands and it worked satisfactorily for tethering my cameras to my laptop for Bird Photography. I was hoping someone either remembered the exact wording or perhaps have the thread describing the actions that must be utilized to make the programs worked, I do not need another program. Both MS or Nikon refuse to answer the problem as they state they no longer support the program. I have been doing this for over 50 years and it's a tendency for people to offer alternatives instead of simply answering the questions. I don't need conversation.
  2. Windows XP Professional 32 bit w/service pack. After you install Nikon Capture 3.5, Nikon Capture 3.5 requires you change two things in the computer, first open "My computer" on the desktop, open properties, then advanced. The first window Here you can turn on or off DEP. Turn it on but in the window put in the exceptions, in this case Nikon Capture editor and Nikon Capture control, save the changes and exit. Then lower in the same page is the Startup box, click it and you will see your installed windows in the area above and then below that is an EDIT box to edit the start menu. This menu MUST to be changed to operate Capture 3.5 but I don't know the changes at the end of the string, it starts with Windows XP of course but the end of the string are what has to be changed to "no execute" etc. The string has to be correct to operate Nikon Capture 3.5 in XP SP2 or SP3 or it will crash the PC. When you first install Capture 3.5 and you have not preset the DEP exceptions a menu will come up telling you to change DEP settings and how to do it but no mention of the startup string.
  3. I have over a dozen older film cameras, oldest a 1932 Kodak Recomar. I had a T-50 and a T-70 that both quit on me at some point, both just electronically died. I still have many manual Canon's AL-AT, two AE-1's, and an F-1 with a plethora of FD lenses in a case. They are all in a display case in my shop except the F1, when I do use film it's always the F1, in my opinion probably the best camera that Canon ever made as well as most other manufactures. I started this fiasco in 1947 in high school photo class, I worked my entire summer vacation to buy my first 35mm, A Perfex w/Wollensack 3.5 F. then a Navy photog in Korea. There is just something about the F1 that takes me back to the time when I was sent on assignment I was EXPECTED to get the "shot", no burning up the air with multiple images like now. I now use 3 D series Nikons and a Fuji S2 but they just don't compare FEEL WISE to the F1. I still use the F1 on occasion especially with a planned trip, I learned to use "hearing aid" batteries in it. also use some of my better FD lenses on my Mirrorless camera with an adapter. OH, I also never owned or used an EOS camera, I switched to Nikon when they came out and obsoleted my FL and FD lenses.
  4. <p>Copas de roja</p><div></div>
  5. <p>I have 2 D1's and a D1H. Banding in the dark areas is almost assured if you "underexpose" Whenever I underexpose and try to bring up the shadows there is banding on the D1 but not on the D1H. The exposures have to be "nuts on" to have no banding or excessive noise.</p>
  6. <p>Early morning surprise</p><div></div>
  7. <p>Andrew, I like your theory but it doesn't work like that. In Aperture mode with the custom #22 setting to make the diaphragm automatic and changing the F/stop in "A" mode the diaphragm doesn't move. The meter moves but the diaphragm is static and it exposes the same as it does in "P" mode. If I change #22 to manual F/stop and let the camera decide the shutter speed it's spot on for exposure. I'll just leave it like that and use with the manual focus lenses. Otherwise the camera works great so I'll just use it as a backup. I also have a D1H and another D1 that are "A" O.K. I like the D1H best for ergonomics but the D1's NEF colors are better converted to Tiff for printing.</p>
  8. <p>The Main-MPU (motherboard) controls the aperture lever when set to automatic exposure mode. In manual where I "preset" the aperture physically to a chosen F stop it then adjusts the shutter speed to the appropriate exposure combination and it's spot on. I'll can still use it for my legacy lenses as I have to preset the aperture anyway and it seems to be right on with my old manual lenses. Make a good back up to my D1H.</p><div></div>
  9. <p>Bad news I'm afraid, according to the repair manual the MAIN-MCU controls the aperture so essentially the computer motherboard failed, Adios.</p>
  10. <p>Glen, I used several lenses and all are the same problem. The shutter is obviously O.K. because the image is correct on Manual setting so the problem obviously is the failure of the diaphragm to open sufficiently at a given speed and aperture setting. As I said on manual setting of the shutter and the aperture (physical) is O.K., spot on exactly the same exposure as the other camera on "P".</p>
  11. <p>Shun,<br> This I have discovered. Camera no. 1 set on "P" makes an exposure of 1/4 at F/3.3 and it spot on.<br> Second camera set on "P" records an image at the same 1/4 at F/3.3 but it's way underexposed so not true exif and so much noise it like a 20 piece orchestra, not usable. The same lens for both in fact the same everything including all of the custom settings.<br> I then enabled manual aperture control in the custom settings and set the aperture MYSELF to F/3.3 and the shutter speed at the same 1/4 sec. and the exposure came out perfect just like the number one camera on "P". So if I manually set the F/stop and the shutter speed it exposes perfectly. I checked the levers and they are O.K., stop down etc. Now what?</p>
  12. <p>Mike, I ran the series in aperture and the shutter speed test.<br> The shutter speed from 1/30 to 1/500 did as expected but the aperture with the camera set a 1/125 sec. going from F/22 to F/3.3 showed only a slight variation, in fact the shots a 5.6, 4 and 3.3 were almost identical?<br> This to me would indicate the shutter is working (seems O.K. otherwise at all speeds) but the aperture control is suspect. What's the remedy if not the shutter?<br> Also when I take the same image with both camera No. 1 is spot on but the suspect camera is almost black BUT the EXIF shows the same for both? This would indicate to me the meter is working but whatever the meter controls isn't.</p>
  13. <p>Shun, I'm sure it's a shutter problem and so not worth repairing. As far as the suggestion that I JUNK the D1 period I think it's uncalled for, if it suites my purposes then it's for ME to decide when to retire it. I still enjoy using my F1 Canon occasionally, I started my photography life in 1947 in school and was a U.S. Navy photog for 8 years and in addition I'm a retired mechanical engineer and retire CEO/Pres. of a NASDAQ traded company for 15 years. I don't cot6ton to being talked down to when I simply asked a legitimate question.</p>
  14. <p>O.K. first off everything on both are IDENTICAL settings, same lens, same battery, same CF card, the EXIF shows the same exposure parameters, cleaned all contacts and Mr. Hamm, shove it, I own 12 other cameras, I even have my original 1932 Kodak Recomar that I still use. I just returned from a 10 day cruise of the Caribbean and shot hundreds of photo's with the D1, some are excellent if I don't print over 8 X 10, I like the small files to work with. I see NO legitimate reason to buy a 36 MP camera so I can display on the net. 99% of people who buy high level cameras do so for their ego or for display then only use them to post on the net.<br> I posted a legitimate question looking for simple answer such as the "sensor" etc. It obviously is not the meter because both Exif's show the same exact info., </p>
  15. bill_force

    underexposure

    <p>I have 2 identical Nikon D1 cameras, one underexposes by 5 stops, the other seems to be spot on.<br> If I set both cameras identical settings, same lens, same battery same CF card the one camera underexposes severely. I am puzzled because bot cameras set to MANUAL exposure with the same settings the exposure meter shouldn't come into play. If I had both set to "P" I could understand the meter being off on one camera but both the aperture and speed are the same in "manual" but the images are still vastly underexposed. Is it something other than the meter effecting the exposure? </p>
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