bfmelton

Thanks for the feedback. So to make sure I'm understanding correctly, with the A9, shooting RAW with electronic shutter in silent mode at 1/320 or 1/500, I should be able to get 12 fps? FYI I would probably be using the Sigma 135 1.8 lens.

Hello, I shoot ballet from the audience (or at least within earshot of the audience) and need a high fps rate in silent mode. My Canon 5D mk4 only gives me about 3 or 4 fps in silent. I understand that shooting electronically, the A7 III can fire at 10 fps and most of what I have found online indicates that it can do 10 fps in silent mode. But someone told me last night that in silent mode it slows to 5 fps. I tried it briefly but didn't have time to verify either way. Can someone here speak to this issue and let me know what fps i would get shooting at ISO 3200 @1/500? 5 fps isn't enough of an improvement over my Canon to justify a switch but 10fps would be. I'd also be interested to know the silent fps on the A9, same settings. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks, Mark, What I was actually trying to do was to eliminate step 2. I did this by setting the joystick to direct AF point selection in Custom Controls.

EDIT: Problem solved. Under custom controls, I set the joystick to direct AF point selection. Hi all, I have just purchased a 5D IV, moving up from 5D III, and I have a problem. I think and hope it's operator error, but if the solution is in the manual it has eluded me. When I half-press the shutter button, I am unable to select/move the AF point with the joystick (and the focus points, incidentally, stay black). To activate the joystick and use it to move my AF point, I first have to press the AF point selection button, at which time all AF points light up in red and the joystick can then move to different AF points. back-button focus by using the AF-on button yields similar results. Is this a bug or a feature? Have I unwittingly set the camera to do this, or did it come this way? If the latter, how can I make it work like my 5D III and have the AF point selectable immediately upon shutter button half-press? Please note I am NOT here talking about changing the AF area selection mode (toggling among single point, zone, large zone, etc. by pushing the AF point selection button and then turning the main dial); I am talking about selecting/changing a focus point. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello, I'm going to be be doing some dance photography in the near future. I'd like to place one DSLR on a tripod with a wide-enough lens to capture the full stage/corps de ballet while holding or monopodding a second body with a longer lens to catch principal dancers from a different angle. I'll be working with 1DX II, 5D III, and 5D IV, so any combination of those will be acceptable. I need a way of firing the tripod camera whenever I fire the one I'm holding. No need to be able to adjust the remote camera's exposure settings--I'll just have to adjust that directly at the beginning of each scene. Is there any kind of remote firing/slave system that would enable me to do this? Thanks for any info.

ISO 200, 1/125, 8.0, @1/8 or 1/16 (power settings changed a bit during the shoot, but in that neighborhood).

Not a dance company, actually; just an individual in my studio doing standard classical ballet.

Update: I just completed a shoot with the rented Einsteins, shooting around 3 or four stops down from maximum. Result: http://www.hacklightphotography.com/frozen.jpg Hard to tell from this crop, but this girl was completely in the air flying across the studio. Ghosting problem solved. Now to save up for Einsteins. :)

Hi all, I need some help. I'm using the Pentax 645Z in studio for dance photography, which means that my dancers are engaging in fast movement. The only ambient light is coming from the modeling lamps. The strobes are Alien Bees, both 400s and 800s. The unretouched pics below show a marked amount of what I assume is flash ghosting on the dancers' feet (which are obviously the fastest moving thing in the frame). Interestingly, other fast-moving objects, such as hands, hems of skirts, hair, and even dust are nicely frozen, but none of that matters due to the unacceptable ghosting with their feet. http://www.hacklightphotography.com/ghost1.jpg http://www.hacklightphotography.com/ghost2.jpg The 645Z is notorious for its slow sync speed of 1/125 sec. My reading of the AB800 specs suggests that worst case I'm getting a t.1 flash duration of 1/550 seconds, and given my power settings I'm probably closer to 1/1000. In an attempt to get the ghosting under control, with the dancer in red, I purchased and used a lens with a leaf shutter to get the shutter speed to 1/500, thus bypassing the 1/125 X sync of the Pentax, but her foot is still ghosting. My questions: 1) Am I diagnosing this correctly? Is this ghosting or simply too slow a shutter speed? 2) if it is ghosting, is it being caused by the modeling lamps, or by the flash duration of the strobes? If the problem is the strobes, will switching to Einsteins eliminate the problem? Based on my reading of the specs (page 13) and my anticipated lighting requirements, they would let me get me to a t.1 of around 1/4000 seconds as opposed to my current 1/1000 or so. This is a pricey solution, but I'm willing to do it if it would solve the problem (and be really bummed if i dumped that money into Einsteins and the problem persisted. Any input would be welcomed. Thanks!

Hi, all, I attended an event some months ago at which I saw a photographer wearing a backpack. extended above the backpack on monopods or booms or something were two speedlites, fairly high (two or three feet) over the photographer's shoulders, both pointed forward,. Obviously there was an external battery (or two) in the backpack. I currently use a flash bracket, but I've got an event coming up this summer that will have me on my feet and walking around a lot and shooting a lot, and I think that such a setup would give me more light and more battery duration, and let me carry the extra weight longer. The height of the arms also would serve to get the flash even farther off the camera than does my bracket. I haven't been able to find such a rig and I'm wondering if a stock rig of this sort exists or if I would have to engineer it myself. Has anyone seen or done anything like this? Many thanks for any info.

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<p>One way to approach this problem would be to ask yourself where you're feeling the greatest limitation with your t3i. If you feel like your frame rate is too slow of you're missing focus too much, go with the 7D. But if (as seems to me to be the case) your biggest concern is noise, then go with the 6D. The 7D has a focusing system that is a lot better and faster at nailing a moving target than the 6D--but is you haven't noticed a problem in that department, and the noise actually is worrying you, I'd probably suggest the 6D.</p>