bennybee

Hi Gus, perhaps I should have said that the meter needle moves normally and accurate when the winder is not attached to the camera.

<p>Great info, thanks John. I will try that tonight.<br> Could it be that the little 'winged' pressure spring of the winder forwards negative power to the meter when it touches the camera battery when the battery cap is removed, leading to a jumpy meter needle? I suppose that this spring-thing is 'earthed' since it is screwed into the metal top plate of the winder...</p>

<p>Dear all, I have another Topcon question... I'm really trying hard to love Topcons as you can see, but I ran into trouble again. Yesterday the Auto Winder S arrived, which I bought for my other Topcon camera : a black Super DM. The winder is NOS and in mint condition and came with the base protector plastic, box, inserts and manual. I attached it to the camera and when switching the winder on it arms the shutter and advances the film, but the red LED stays on and then the shutter release button is blocked - no release possible unless I switch off the winder again. I tried different things to no avail. What does work is removing the camera battery cover : then the winder works perfectly, although the user manual doesn't say that the battery cover needs to be removed before attaching the winder!<br /> What happens though, is that (without the body battery cover) the meter occasionally gets no power : the meter needle drops to the extreme left and stays 'dead' until you tap the whole unit. When the meter does work, the needle has a tendency to behave wildly (jumpy). Maybe the meter gets too much power from the four AA cells in the winder?<br /> The supplied user manual seems to be the one for the Auto Winder (non-S version), but perhaps Topcon never printed one for the 'S' version?<br /> Can anyone confirm that the camera battery cover needs to be removed?</p>

<p>I took the bottom plate off this weekend to check if anything would benefit from a gentle nudge. Of course nothing inside resembles the Spotmatic and I didn't touch anything. So I went back to give the shutter some more exercise, but so far no improvement. Especially the speeds from 1/60s downwards cause the mirror to stay up after exposure. Now, if the exposures are correct, it isn't such a big deal - a test film will have to show that. After all, my Mamiya RB67 also lowers its mirror after rearming only..... ;-)</p>

Meant to say : too much friction due to dried lubricant or lack of use.

Wow, I had not expected so much replies in such a short time . Thanks everyone! I should perhaps have added that it is the model without MLU.There is no mirror bumper left, just bare metal with a hint of dried glue.I was thinking of using Fader Lube from those small bottles with metal tip like an injection needle : micro drop on a plate or arm that has too much friction against another metal part, like what happened in the Spotmatic. I don't plan to use this body regularly, so I doubt that I will have it CLA'dd, besides I would then need to ship it to the US, with all the customs costs involved etc. Mind you, the camera would definitely deserve it because it's in Mint condition .should I take off the bottom plate and see if I can spot the issue? I am not mechanically skilled but I can do a few things if it doesn't require disassembly... thanks! :-)

Hi, Occasionally the mirror stays up after the shutter release, especially at 1/15 and 1/30sec. It drops down again when advancing to the next frame. I know that there is a similar problem with the Pentax Spotmatic, and one can find a cure for this on the internet : a tiny drop of oil on a moving arm under the bottom plate. I was able to resolve the problem in my own SP500 this way. I was thinking that perhaps the problem is the same in the RE Super? Can someone pls help? Thanks in advance and best regards , Benny.

<p>Thanks, I will certainly buy an 'L' version screen. Another reason for wanting to swap the screen is that mine shows slight circular highlight streaks in the four corners. Nothing serious, but a little distracting. I suspected that the screen was placed on a table top and spun around. I checked both sides of the screen and it doesn't show any outside damage - the effect seems to come from within (between the two layers?). Perhaps it's a sort of separation due to age. </p>

<p>Thanks Michael and Steven.<br> Yes, I'm very happy with that camera. Unfortunately it came with an A-type focusing screen, while this version (F1<strong>n</strong>) is said to have been equipped with the B-type screen. Also, the auction picture shows a nice bayonet style body cap, while the body came with a plastic push on cap. Oh well... I was happy enough with the condition of the camera to not complain to the seller about these details. It does indeed have the original rubber eyepiece ring and the shutter curtains look like totally unused! I also got a luxury ever-ready case : black with brown piping around the edges. Oh, and a D-type flash coupler. I won't be using any of them though. Yesterday I also 'won' a minty FDn 50mm/f1.8 lens for USD12.00 + shipping. I guess my luck is soon going to run out now ;-)</p>

<p>This were all very helpful responses. Thank you all!<br> BTW, here is a picture of my new black beauty.<br> Benny</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for the replies. Perhaps it is indeed due to my glasses not quite matching the VF optics of the camera. Another reason might be that I am not quite used to using a screen with microprisms only : even when the lens is focused correctly, the microprisms remain too visible and I cannot confirm the exact focus position. Especially with a wide-angle lens where details are small and 'further away' in the image.<br> A matte screen with or without a split-image may be better.<br> I also had no success yet finding diopter correction lenses for the F1 viewfinder, and those that I have for the Nikons are a different size. They are either too small (FM) or too big (F3HP & F100). I use +2d correction lenses for the Nikons, but the Canon may require a different strength?<br> Best,<br> Benny</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> As a long time Nikon user/collector I just bought a Canon F1n (not the F1N New). It arrived yesterday and is in beautiful condition, and I'm looking forward to using it this weekend. The body is equipped with an A-type focusing screen (microprisms), but as a spectacle wearer I find it difficult to focus with that, especially with the FD 28mm/f2.8 that I have on the camera. So now I want to replace it by a B-type screen (split-screen), which is a type of screen that I'm more familiar with on my other cameras.<br> I wonder if the screens for the F1N (New) will fit and work well on my camera. I could not find a clear information on this when Googling, nor does there seem to be a thread on that topic in this FD forum yet.<br> Also, I found a B-type screen on that auction site, and it says "focusing screen L (B)" on the long side of the screen. Does this mean that it is an "L" version (Laser Matte)? Because most other screens for the F1/F1n do not have that "L"...<br> Thanks a bunch in advance.<br> Ben</p>