benny_spinoza

<p>Thanks for the information about RawTherapee. I tried it. IMHO, it just doesn't compare to CaptureOne. I realize I am still a novice with RawTherapee, but I am able to get far superior results from CaptureOne on my fuji files.</p>

I am considering a used digital back for my Hasselblad. Most likely, it would be a Hasselblad or Phaseone back. I use and like CaptureOne, but if I go with a Hasselblad back, I would need a raw converter other than Captureone. I downloaded Phocus to try it out, using files from my Fujix100. But it is annoying. After making changes to exposure, contrast, etc., I don't see the effects until I click into the displayed image, and then it takes some time for the processing to be carried out. I am using a 2011 MacBook Pro, but CaptureOne works just fine with it. Would Phocus have such problems with files from a Hasselblad back? Another annoying thing is that there is no auto button to click that automatically corrects the color balance and color temperature, like in CaptureOne, which works really well.

It is basically an x1d with a form factor similar to the classic V, so the top screen is for framing with focusing performed automatically as in the x1d. This would easily allow waist level shooting, which I think is a great idea. But I suppose an adjustable finder similar to that proposed by the Fuji medium format camera (with adapter) would also be practical alternative. Much of the volume of the box is not needed, and would be empty? Lots of room for a big battery, though. A box would provide a nice platform to attach a flash and grip. Regarding the comments about the shutter; As we all know, the leaf shutter allows flash sync at all shutter speeds, and exhibits very low vibration. There also is no rolling effect in fast moving objects as for a focal plane shutter. IMHO, a leaf shutter is much more desirable than a focal plane shutter. I think the concept is very interesting, and would like to see it brought into production. Hasselblad has its mojo back. And the pricing is inviting for serious amateurs.

<p>It has been a long time since I have used the Qpcard calibration software. Previously, I could only use it with Lightroom, but I much prefer CaptureOne, so I haven't used LR nor the Qpcard for a few years. The Qpcard website has long indicated that they are working on Qpcard calibration software that can work with C1. I downloaded the Qpcard software again, and now I notice that one can create an "icc" file as well as a "dcp" file for color profiling. So I created an icc profile, stored it in the Profile folder under Colorsync (for the Mac OS), and now I can import the icc profile into C1! Cool. I only tried one sample and didn't notice much difference with the standard camera profile for my Fujix100. But I would like to ask, has anyone been using the Qpcard card to generate icc profiles for CaptureOne, and if so, in real-use scenarios do you find it better than the supplied camera profile?</p>

I have used both Vuescan and silverfast on my ( now sold) Nikon 9000. I found that for some tricky lighting situations, there was a big difference....silverfast did a better job with white balance. Also, I found that sometimes I got more saturated color with silverfast. In many situations, Vuescan did a fine job. But I would give the nod to silverfast.

I have some comments about the time issues. Over several years, I scanned thousands of negatives. But then, I worked out of a home office, and I did batch scanning, so I just didn't sit around and twiddle my thumbs. And, 100 rolls isn't huge, but it is a non-trivial amount. So if you do decide to scan, not only will there be a learning curve, but make sure you have something else to work on that you either enjoy or needs to be done. Maybe study that foreign language you've been meaning to do, read some good books, brush up on your quantum physics...anything...just don't sit around and listen to the scanner hum...cause you will go mad! Mad, I say, mad!

<p>I sold my Nikon F6 film camera on the classified section of one of the camera Internet blogs....if my memory serves me, it was APUG.org. You could try something like that. If you don't want any hassles, want to make the transaction happen quickly, and you want to make sure you are dealing with someone honest, you can't go wrong with KEH. You might get more elsewhere, but if you lead a busy life it can save you valuable time.</p>

Why did I sell the Nikon 9000.....I figured that because it was no longer supported by Nikon, I wouldn't be able to get it fixed if it broke. And once I finished scanning all my film, with a sell price of nearly 4K, and needing a rebuilt transmission for my SUV, well, it seemed like the right thing to do at the time! Both my Hasselblad and son have been angry at me now and then because of that decision. Oh well, you can't please everyone.

<p>This looks like the Reflecta 120 (also sold as a Pacific Image model) dedicated film scanner, but reviews indicate it is a bit faster. So perhaps it is an updated 120 dedicated film scanner from Reflecta, the actual manufacturer? I have seen a few pictures posted on Flickr, so apparently at least some people have purchased it. I am curious if anybody in this forum has purchased or seen one? My Hasselblad has been in tears lately, yelling at me "Why did you sell your Nikon 9000!"</p>

<p>I don't know if they are still available, but years ago I bought the Kodachrome calibration target from SilverFast and used it with SilverFast to scan hundreds of Kodachromes in a color managed workflow. I got great results. If you are really serious about scanning Kodachrome, you need a Kodachrome target to calibrate and create a color profile for your scanner.</p>

Glad you took it well! But seriously....if you intend to get the body serviced, then perhaps the service technician can give you more insight into its date of manufacture. I (and many others) on this forum have used the services of David Odess to service our hasselblads. Enjoy your system!

Well, if you feel you don't have enough $$ to date your 500cm body, perhaps you can try a different approach. How about some flowers and a picnic lunch on a beautiful Saturday morning? But don't refer to your kit as "a Frankenstein of a camera." That will only hurt her feelings. And don't believe people who say you can't date your 500cm body because of having "EARL CHESTNUT" tattooed where her serial number should be. That is in the past, and if she is truly over that, you can offer to have it removed. The past is the past. Tell her to look forward, not backwards. I am confident that the two of you will make beautiful pictures together.

Hasselblad scanners can save scans in their proprietary file format, which I think is called 3F (flexible file format).This is what some people refer to as "RAW". Once a negative is scanned as a 3F file, then unlimited manipulation can be made using the scanning software, but the original 3F file is not destroyed. Maybe this is what the OP meant?

<p>Hmm...similar history. I used to shoot medium format. Then I bought a Fujifilm x100, which I love. But have been hankering for 35mm rangefinder. The only problem is my bank account is not cooperating. Enjoy! What film do you intend to shoot? Will you scan your own?</p>

<p>As others have stated in other threads in the past, it is not so much the mirror slap as just one's hands shaking. I tested that, and I agree with it. Hand-held pictures with a Hassy with mirror lock up and with the mirror activated produced no discernable difference. That being said, as others have said (why do I keep quoting "others"?) it really boils down to whether you want a camera with interchangeable lenses. And if you want an interchangable lens camera, then as others (there I go again) have said, look into a Mamiya 67 rangefinder. I have a Hasselblad system, but regret that I didn't buy into the Mamiya rangefinder system. But, someday I may bet a digital back for the Hassy, so that is another thing to consider if you think someday a digital back is in your future.</p>