belal_chami

Hi Bebu, I digged a little deeper and found the original description to the method which is the one I used. See below Snippets of this and that: How to test/ calibrate a manual SLR camera's shutter using a digital camera To measure luminosity, you need to draw a rectangle of fixed size (using the transform tool) in the center of the blurred light (just ensure the 'spot light' is not over exposed and if it is, adjusted the ISO of your dslr. It is as simple as opening the histogram bar thereafter and in the expanded view, show statistics. Though there are other ways to measure luminosity in photoshop. Let me know how you go. Good luck!

Hi Bebu & Greg, I have used 3 independent methods to determine the accuracy of the shutter speed - two of which have a different assay principle. I am a scientist and I know very well that if a peer has produced consistent results using different approaches that are grounded in different principles, then there is very little room to dispute the findings. I tested the camera with a roll of film in manual mode and compared the same frames with a dslr on the exact same settings. Then I used the method of relatively (with a different dslr), determining the shutter speed accuracy through the lens of a DSLR. Finally, I used a single sensor centered in the shutter to determine the absolute shutter speed. All those methods showed that my shutter speed was slow, at least 1 to 2 stops slower in fact. I can't find the original link that described the second method (comparing the shutter speed through the lens of a DSLR), but here is one that comes very close. A great way to test shutter speed accuracy The principle herein is measuring the luminosity(via photoshop) as an index to shutter speed. For each speed, 3 tests were taken on both the DSLR and the SLR, where the means and standard deviation (or CV%) were determined. The CV% was around 5-10%, so very negligible. Of course, the findings are relative and you need to first assume your DSLR shutter is accurate. One advantage of using this method is that you can actually see 'bounce' and 'capping' occurring, which I was able to rule out in my nikon fe2. I can't justify spending presumably hundreds of dollars on a 3 sensor shutter tester and seeing that I have ruled out capping and bounce, the single sensor will have to suffice. Also, the shutter magnet which I previously located (though didn't mention) was dirt free, though I still cleaned it but that did not change anything.

I can't believe I am being blasted on a camera forum page for simply asking for advice. You need perspective, people come here to seek advice. It doesn't matter which method I used to test the shutter speed, they all consistently told me it was off and I was able to verify this when I threw in a roll of film. You need to get past this mate. The DSLR method uses an external light source to flash through the shutter of the SLR while the lens of the dslr is buried over the lens of the SLR - Effectively, the DSLR only sees like from the light source through the shutter of the SLR - that is the principle of the test. Now moving forward.. My question was the connection between manual speeds and auto speed. If your response is simply to 'learn some common sense & technical theory' then you've completely missed the point on why people post threads. Again, it is about perspective mate. I won't be responding to any further replies from you. Waste of time.

I have been checking the shutter speed against my DSLR which has been very accurate. I have also checked the speed using a designated speed shutter tester which is also very accurate. See source below. Camera shutter tester with light source for PC and laptop up to 1/2000th I am concern about the manual speeds because I sometimes shoot in manual and more importantly, if the manual speeds are not accurate, then how can the Aperature priority mode be accurate? From my understand, it will select the correct speed though that speed setting itself would need to be correct first.

Yes I did adjust the gold screw beneath the DOF lever but then screwed it back to its original position when it didn't change the shutter speed. I have followed the order in that was indicated in the repair manual. I have screenshot the relevant parts. I repeated this procedure around three times and verified my metering was accurate as I was getting the same readings with my DSLR. Still did not change the general slow shutter speeds. Any ideas/?

Any way to replace the spring? haha. I think I will have to learn to live with it and adjust the ISO to compensate.

Thank you all for your comments, most were really helpful. I should have mentioned that I did have a service/repair manual that guided me. I am starting to think something is wrong is the timing controlled by the quartz system that is probably beyond me. I do have a spare fe2 for parts and I may try changing the electronics to see if that changes anything. Gus, I don't see how adjusting the VR's would change anything. My metering is fine, the manual speeds are not accurate so it wouldn't matter if I adjusted the VR's as the shutter speed is quartz controlled as far as I understand. What can be common sense in an niche area?

Thanks for your suggestion. I was starting to think the shutter was controlled elsewhere when I fiddled with some screws and there was no change. I can't find anyone that will service the camera less than what it is currently worth. Looks like I will be shelfing this one until I figure a way to adjust it electronically.

Hi all, I need some help in tuning the shutter speed of a recently purchased Nikon Fe2 in otherwise great condition. I tested the shutter at various speeds against a DSLR and the shutter on my Fe2 is consistently slower at almost all speeds (but surprisingly accurate at 1/4000). I have tried this method of assessing shutter speeds with my other cameras and can vouch that is it accurate (accuracy is relative to the DSLR). I disassembled the body, removed the shutter and flushed it several times with zippo light fluid over several hours and let it air dry until bone dry. I also removed the shutter blades and cleaned them individually. I oiled the moving mechanisms with watchers oil and reassembled the camera. I retested the shutter speed and nothing had changed, still consistently slower at almost all shutter speeds by one to two stops. I am probably at the stage to adjust the shutter speed myself, however I have never done this on an FE2. Can someone direct me on how best do to this? I have attached a photo of the camera body without the leatherette and am guessing one of the portals to access screws will adjust the shutter. Question is, which one? which direction and how far do I turn the screw? If anyone had any advice here, it will be greatly appreciated

I have recently purchased a canonet 1l-17 giii in very good condition. The seller told me the camera has undergone a CLA and had the light meter recalibrated for 1.5V batteries. Being the scientists that I am, I tested the shutter speeds using the dslr approach and found that the shutter speeds were consistently slower that that of my dslr for every given speed. I estimated that it was at least one stop slower on each speed. I have torn down the camera to do my own CLA and have removed the shutter mechanism (with a great deal of struggle) to apply zippo lighter fluid several times to the shutter blades and flywheels using a Q-tip. I then dried (with a blower) and applied a small amount of watch oil to the flywheels, leaving the shutter dry. I believe I am now at the stage to 'adjust' however I can find no obvious way to do that. Is there a point/screw that needs to be tightened to get the shutter firing at the correct speed? I have the service manuals but could not find anything. Any advice will be greatly appreciated

Not the news I wanted to hear but thank you all for your help. I have looked into the N8008s and they look really affordable though I am reluctant to part with the Fe2 which is I have become accustomed. I may get a quote or buy a recently serviced fe2.

<p>Sorry it is out of order. </p><div></div>

<p>1/4000</p><div></div>

<p>unfortunately, it seems I can't upload more than one image per post. Argh!</p>

<p>Please see my original post:<br /> http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00eG3k<br /> Following suggestions, I experimented on a recent flight using my Nikon Fe2 with 55mm nikkor lens at various shutter speeds.<br /> 1/1000<br />1/2000<br />1/4000<br /><br /><br /> I quickly scanned the negatives which showed that at 1/1000 my exposure was good, however the image became increasingly darker even though I adjusted my aperature by a full stop for each step up in shutter (i.e: 1/1000 f/5.6; 1/2000 f/4 & 1/4000 f2.8). My light meter also indicated that I was at the correct exposure for each shutter speed that I used (adjusting for aperture).</p> <p>So what is going on here? Is this a classic example of reciprocity failure or is my beloved nikon fe2 in need of expensive repairs?<br /> Thank you in advanced</p><div></div>