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Thanks, Gus! I used a mini-torch to gently warm the knob, then used a snapping motion just as you described... presto! The knob unscrewed easily. To think that my thumbs almost have blisters on them from trying to unscrew the knob without heat last night. You’ve helped me many times over the years with your camera repair wisdom. I’m grateful to you for sharing so much with us. Cheers!

Thank you, Gus! Is two turns on that set screw enough? Would a hairdryer be the right tool for heating it up? Thanks again!

I am overhauling a post-war Leica IIIc but working from a guide for the IIIf. The winding knob on these are significantly different and so the instructions do not match what I am seeing. I have backed out the set screw two turns but I am unable to unscrew the knob from the body with a reasonable amount of force. (Everything on this camera has been super tight thus far). I don’t want to break the camera (or my hand!) so I am pausing to ask if these are the correct steps for removing the large winding knob: Loosen set screw two turns (or should it be removed completely?) Rotate the knob counter-clockwise to unscrew it from the base. Is this correct or are there other steps to removing the knob? Thanks in advance, Jim

The old lubricants can be removed with naptha or toluene during disassembly. I have a precut mirror that can be attached easily. Do you have lubricants to recommend?

Thank you, sir! With your help I was able to track down the lubricants mentioned in one of his books.

I received an post-war IIIc from a friend who was clearing out her deceased father’s items. The chrome has peeled considerably and the mechanics are not working (it will not cock). There’s no use spending more on a CLA than the old boy is worth, yet I don’t want it to go unused. This got me thinking about attempting a CLA on the IIIc. I have documentation and spanners on the way to assist me with this. I’ve successfully worked on some 70s era Canons and feel comfortable doing the work. My question is this: what lubricants will I need for this CLA? I note that Gus Lazzari mentioned using mentioned using Mobil1 5-30w oil for some parts, but perhaps there are other lubricants he would suggest for different parts of the camera. Others have suggested watch repair oils, but were not specific about which type. Thanks, Jim

I have never experienced any framing inaccuracies with my M6 using 35mm, 50mm, and 90mm focal lengths. I have an early M6 Classic (0.72) that was made in Wetzlar and has never been serviced yet the framing is flawless. In regards to whiteout, I experienced it significantly for the first 30 minutes I used the camera and then it went away. I shoot daily in all kinds of natural lighting conditions and perhaps see flare once a year and too briefly to even make note of. I suspect that some people may have poor samples or vision issues which contribute to framing and whiteout. I have neither and have experienced neither. I have found the M6 Classic to be my go-to camera. I have an impressive stable of film cameras in multiple formats: the M6 Classic is one of two cameras I will never willingly part with. It is an extension of my eye and the most intuitive, effortless camera I have ever used.

<p>There's no way around it. I am stunned and saddened. I knew he was having health problems but still never imagined this. Others have said it better. </p>

<p>Leica M6 'Wetzlar' / 35mm Summicron ver 1 / Eastman 5222 / Pyrocat-HD</p> <div></div>

<p>I think the color isn't so bad for a single coated, 56 year old lens. I was told it would only be good for B&W.<br> <br /><br /></p> <p><em>Leica M6 'Wetzlar' / 35mm Summicron v1 / Provia 100f</em></p> <p>Please click <strong><a href=" to view larger.</p><div></div>

<p>I had been referred to Youxin by a tech I know who uses him regularly. When I talked to Youxin he seemed to have a lot of trepidation about working on the specific lens I needed help with (tons of atypical haze that looked like the beginning of mold or microscopic specs of oil). He was upfront about his concern so I took it to Don.<br> The condition was even worse than I imagined but Don worked a miracle and cleaned the lens exceptionally well. The lens now shoots as good as new! Don also communicated well and was very clear about what was wrong with the lens, how it happened, what needed to be done, what he did, and how it tested after working on it.<br> Though I did not go with Youxin in the end, I was impressed by how forthcoming he was. </p>

<p>Nice shot, Spencer. Gotta love the 'Mat! The glass on them punches way above what you would expect.</p>

<p>We have been enjoying a mild August here but it has been raining virtually the entire month, which has made for very little time to go out and shoot. On one occasion where it overcast but not raining, we went to a nearby small town and walked around photographing whatever. In this case I used a Rolleiflex 2.8C Planar with some East German film that expired in 1975.</p> <p>Please share your images and tell us about them.</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>Superb work, gentlemen! Barry, that may be my favorite photo from you.</p> <p><em>Leica M6 'Wetzlar' / 50mm Summicron ver. 4 / Yellow Filter / Eastman 5222 / Pyrocat-HD</em><br> Please click <strong><a href=" to view larger on Flickr.</p><div></div>

The cotton rag paper is acid free but the wood has a high lignan content and would be acidic, eventually destroying the images unless the wood has been sealed. Adi, how are you intending to make these prints archival (or are you)? I am hoping to learn something. Cheers!