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b_w10

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  1. <p>'any medium sized camera <strong>or lens</strong> plate -with an anti twist flange- should work"</p> <p>That's what I was searching for last night but wasn't able to find anything with a flange. Seems that most all of them use the captured pin. I'm not done searching, yet. <br> <br />The lens plate is a good idea as they, usually, have a flange/ridge on the back end and with the way that the slot for the attaching screw is orientated, I'd be able to adjust for the width of the camera. Only thing is, will it be wide enough to be effective? Might be if I could find one that's a couple of inches wide ...</p>
  2. <blockquote> <p>"I can't remember what the base of the Crown Graphic looks like, but you might look at fitting an aluminum plate/angle to the base for anti-rotation, and screw the Arca plate to your customized aluminum plate to keep it aligned."</p> <p>That's pretty much what I was looking for, a plate with a ridge along the back side to prevent twisting.</p> <p>Drilling a hole in the base is a good idea but I wouldn't want to do it to this particular camera as it is in pretty nice condition.</p> <p>I've contacted Chris @ Hejnar and he seems interested in helping me out. I just have to work up a drawing with dimensions so that he can get a visual of what I want.</p> </blockquote>
  3. <p>Actually, I would like to have a plate for each side of the camera.<br> I like the anti-twist feature for those times when I'm attempting to swing a tripod mounted camera only to find out that the head was not loosened enough and the camera, instead, twists on the plate (easy to do with such a large camera). When that happens, I have to remove the camera and plate from the head, re-tighten the plate, put the camera back on the head and start over again. Same thing can happen by just putting the tripod mounted camera over my shoulder.<br> With an anti-twist plate, I don't have to worry about any of that. If the ball tension is too tight when I try to adjust my view, the camera is not going to twist on the plate and I will know that I need to loosen the tension on the ball or head base just a little more. Plus, I like the fact that I can attach the plates and forget them.<br> As far as the extra weight goes, the camera is already so heavy that I do not think I'll even notice the extra weight that the plates will add. Also, one couldn't ask for an easier to fit with an anti-twist plate camera. It's just a box!</p>
  4. <p>Thank you for the tips, Mr Harper. Low cost sounds really good ... lol!<br> <br />As long as these cameras have been around, I am surprised that no one makes a camera specific plate for it.</p>
  5. <p>Thank you for the suggestions, Howard.</p>
  6. <p>Hi,<br> I've acquired a Crown Graphic 4x5 (my first large format camera) and I'm looking for an Arca compatible, camera plate with anti-twist function. Any recommendations? I tried RRS but they didn't have anything for my specific camera ...</p> <p>Thanks for any help. - cameraniac</p>
  7. b_w10

    Ozzy

    Saw the colorful thumbnail and just had to click on it. Really nice portrait.
  8. <p>JDM von Weinberg,<br> <br />Sorry to see you go. Will miss your posts ...</p>
  9. <p>David, <br /> I have to ask.....how did that 100mm Dynaron lens work out for you after having spent two weeks at the bottom of the creek?<br /> Oh and I have an announcement. Because of this thread, I got to really missing my first camera, the Pentax, Honeywell Spotmatic F that I mentioned earlier. So much in fact that I blew money on eBay on what looks to be a nice, minty example of the camera. Now, of course, I'll have to find a nice example of the 50mm f/1.4 Super Takumar lens that I had. Ugh....why do I do these things to myself?</p>
  10. <p>Gosh....all of this has me thinking that I might just leave the lens as it is, use it on my Nikkormat and save the Ai kit as a curiosity! Plus, if I do that, I won't have to worry about boogering up the lens as it is in great condition and never molested. <br> Thanks for all of the ideas and suggestions though.</p>
  11. <p>Thanks for the info, Matthew. I'll be careful to watch for a possible spring.</p> <p>John Shriver, <br> You had mentioned that a locking compound might have been used to secure the screws in the mount. Do you know what brand or type it is? I'd like to do the same when I reassemble. That is unless it's really not necessary?</p> <p>Thanks</p>
  12. <p>Winfried and John, thank you for the detailed replies. I know now that the job will require more skill than I've got so I will play it safe and leave the focusing mechanisms alone.<br> Thanks, John, for the screwdriver info and the Acetone/ methyl ethyl ketone tip. Great information!<br> The kit that I bought was one of two available. The other might still be available but I would have to contact someone before revealing the source. PM me if you are looking for one.<br> Have a nice weekend<br> Bill</p> <p> </p>
  13. <p>I wish I did still have my first camera. It was a Pentax (Honeywell) Spotmatic F with, if I remember correctly, a 50mm f/1.4 Takumar lens. I remember that lens as being a really sharp one. The camera was given to me by a friend back around 1980. I was about sixteen years old.</p>
  14. <p>I have a question. First, let me say that this is a non-Ai, K model lens #326xxxx. I found the correct #1 Ai kit for it and am currently searching for the correct size screwdriver so that I'll be able to do the swap without stripping out the screw heads. My question is.....Since I'll have the mount off of the lens, will it then be possible to work my way to the focus helicoid so that I can clean and lube it or is that a job that is done by working from the front (objective) end of the lens? Focus is fairly smooth but I'm thinking that because of the age of the lens, a little clean and lube couldn't hurt it?</p> <p>Thanks for any help and suggestions<br /> Bill</p>
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