arthur_smith1

A gentleman never discloses such information. That's how I was properly raised.

I am offering a very fair offer. If he agrees, great. If not, no harm no fowl. I don't think a trial should command a premium. That was his suggestion, not mine.

Which is why you should not look at "asking" prices. People can ask whatever they want. Which does not mean they will ever sell at asking prices.

I live in America. The 'value" of things are determined by what someone is willing to pay for them. Without criticism of the transaction. This indeed is the definition of a Free Economy.

So I should pay more? That makes no sense.

I wouldn't trust that book as a credible source- hopelessly out of date.

May physically be possible. Optically, it will give you poor images, if that is what you want.

The seller let me borrow this beautiful Rolleiflex Old Standard for the weekend, to take it through its paces. I shot a roll of Pan F Plus today, and loved it. It's in clean vintage condition, everything works well, including the frame counter. Sure, the slow speeds do seem a little slow, but to be expected at 89 years of age. Ignoring the auction site prices, what does this community think is a reasonable offer for this camera? No, It's not a 2.8F, but it's a piece of history. What should I offer for it?

Issue resolved. Thank you.

Hi, I recently bought a beautiful little Rolleicord IA Type 3, the one with the little red window on the bottom. Turns out the previous owner seems to have dropped the camera, and as a result, the back door does not fit well to the body, And yes, I have light leaks. I like the Holga/Diana lomography look, but not on this camera. The lens is amazingly sharp. Does anyone have an extra door? I tried making light seals, but the door fit is so off, light is always going to get through as is. Thanks! Arthur

<p>Really surprised no one has mentioned KatzEye split microprism screens. Not cheap, but well worth it. I had one installed into my Nikon D300. And it almost made digital photography enjoyable again. Now I can use all my Ai and AiS glass, and have a pretty accurate focusing aid. The green rangefinder light is less than useless. </p>

<p>I can only comment on the 2.8- it is far and away the best telephoto lens I have ever used. I got mine a few years ago as a "throw in" with the F3HP that I bought. Now that The Angry Photographer has caused demand and prices to go through the roof (I love the guy- he is usually spot on), the lens is that much more enjoyable. </p>

<p>Thanks- I have never heard of Fred Parker's Ultimate Exposure Computer charts- will have to look into that. I have been using my iPhone Pocket Light Meter, and Gossen Luna Pro F, and the more I compare now, the FM's meter looks to be within a half stop. Not bad for an almost 40 year old camera. </p>

<p>New 55 recently released a pretty cool looking product, and published a home brew formula, for a monobath developer that can be used for Tri-X, and HP5 Plus. Has anyone tried it? If so, thoughts?</p>

<p>Ask 50 photographers what the best 35mm camera to use is, and you'll get over 100 responses. I don't think not using a light meter makes someone a better photographer. They are tools, and can be used nicely in the right hands. They are never 100% accurate, but it's always nice to have a guide that can make an accurate recommendation as to what exposure to use for most given situations.</p>