arthur_mcculloch2

The light and composition is captivating. The IR gives it a vintage look - sharp, with a rounded softness. Bravo.

A neighbour, Jay, in repose.

A friend's 60th. Two images, the birthday girl and her mother. Monochrom and I think a 75mm lens. Regards, Arthur.

More faces. Ahem. Participants of a U3A group I attend, at our term 2 breakup lunch. Women outnumber men 3:1, a sad actuarial fate for this cohort in our twilight years. Again with a monochrom, and a 7Artisans 50mm lens. Regards, Arthur.

Good outcome. As noted before, I've been told that the xenon f2.8 used in some kodak retinas is the same lens as the xenon f2 but with the aperture stopped before getting to f2. That may be an urban myth, like the notion that the ektar used in the retina I's was simply a rebadged xenar to get around US post war import controls. Let me know how you go. Regards, Arthur

mellais, am I right that it's a seikosha shutter? You may be able to get some further advice on the Learn Camera Repair' facebook site. I am about to open up my first seikosha-rapid in the next couple of weeks - it's in an airesflex TLR that has been sitting around for some decades, and is gummed up. Regards, Arthur.

Thanks kmac. That's good to know. Regards, Arthur.

Hi Allen Herbert. I take it that your following two photos were comparing the 7Artisans lens with the Q2? How do you find the 7Artisans lens? Regards, Arthur.

Hi kmac. 'You can't really make a mistake reassembling them': I have (at least on a synchro compur), by putting the blades in back the front. They still fit the pins, look proper, but when actuated, close, then reopen in the rest state. From the photo, it does look more like f22 than f16 to me. But that is guessing. For the widest aperture, I've heard that, for instance, that the f2.8 xenon used in the retina IIa was simply the f2 lens with the aperture not opening as wide - but that could be an urban myth. Regards, Arthur.

Two of the participants in a local church's regular 'community lunch' I go to. There's something magic about sharing food and company. Regards, Arthur.

I especially like the note under 'Hayes'. Causes me to remember my youth.

Hi, mskb. I have not used an Ikoflex, but have used other TLR's (Yashicamat, Airesflex, and a Rolleicord), so my comments are based on their use: 1. The only way I could reliably, and cheaply, check focus was to use a ground glass on the open back. Others have posted the technique. It's a bit fiddly, but basically you use a ground glass where the film would go, focus at full aperture to infinity, set to 'B' (to keep the shutter open), and use a magnifying loupe to check the focus on something at infinity. You can do the same at close and medium focus, though many say that if you get infinity right, the rest falls into place. I'm pretty sure others have posted more explicit details on how to do it on this site. A google will bring up further information on how to do it. At close distances, if everything is ok, the distance for crisp focus (measured independently - I use a long plank with measured distance markings) should correspond with the distance indicated on the focus dial, and should match the focus in the WLF. A more complex, expensive, and time consuming way to check focus accuracy is to use film and focus on a line of objects at known distances (in the past, I've used a plank with a line of nails at 3" separations, focused on a particular nail). It can indicate if you're front or rear focusing. 2. Yes, as I understand it. The distance you are focused at should 'line up' with the centre mark in the depth of field scale. 3. As I understand it, the ground glass side should face the mirror. I hope that helps. If I've mislead you, others will no doubt correct me. Good luck with your Ikoflex. They have a reputation for build quality and very good optics. And of course, there's the nostalgic joy of using a TLR and seeing the world back the front. Regards, Arthur.