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ariel_s1

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  1. <p>John, multiplying your kit with multiple different formats is reasonable to fill holes in your lineup, seeing as you couldn't easily fill the gaps with your requirements. I did the same thing for myself, since mirrorless, despite its advances, doesn't quite replicate what my SLR can do. I actually recommended that a film user do this 4 years ago:<br> http://www.photo.net/olympus-camera-forum/00aHV5<br> Buy what works best for you. I'd caution against becoming a photography hoarder, i.e. don't buy a bunch of random crap, but feel free to overcome any shortcomings with other cameras. And keep in mind how unbelievably wide 7mm really is on your m4/3 camera, as well as the immediate capability to zoom as far as 28mm equivalent! I use a Sony a6000 with Zeiss 12mm, but can only imagine how wide 9mm would be!</p>
  2. <p>Joe, the shutter blackout with mirrorless is different than with an SLR. I use an a6000 and a D5200. The D5200 still lets you track the subject in between shots, as the mirror flips up and down. With a mirrorless camera, not only are you technically seeing what's already happened as opposed to what is happening (even if it's just a matter of milliseconds), but until you stop shooting, the display is completely black, with no intermittent capability to see the subject. The sensor is either outputting to the screen/viewfinder or to the memory card.</p>
  3. <p>Eric, I don't agree with regards to Sony. IMO, they are the ones that pioneered meaningful firmware updates. They introduced focus peaking to the mainstream via a firmware upgrade. They just gave the a6000 a huge video upgrade via firmware, too. Whether it's APS-C or full-frame, Sony's firmware updates are about improvements as much as about bugs. I'd even go so far as to argue as that is why Olympus is feeling the pressure to do the same, since Sony really give back to their customers in this way.<br> Nikon definitely does firmware upgrades incorrectly, as theirs always seem to fix some fatal flaw with the camera that they didn't care to fix in pre-production. Nikon's updates also often brick your currently-functioning 3rd party batteries.</p>
  4. <p>I'll just add to the definitive proof: regarding micro 4/3 equipment, the brand name on the camera or lens or flash is not important. They all work together without issue. I have used the FL-50R on my Panasonic various micro 4/3 cameras, and it functions 100%. The only caveat is that since Panasonic cameras don't have remote flash capability, even though the Olympus camera has a remote receiver, so remote flash with the FL-50R doesn't work. It's like the joke of the patient asking the doctor if he will be able to play piano when his hand heals. His doctor replies that he will, to which to patient responds, "Really? That's amazing, considering that I couldn't before!" Considering their naming scheme, I'd go so far as to say that except for Olympus' built-in remote flash capability that was added on, the Panasonic and Olympus flashes are completely identical regarding circuit boards and other internal parts.</p> <p>Additionally, this question was already answered here last fall:<br />http://www.photo.net/olympus-camera-forum/00cley<br> Buy whichever flash you find cheaper. Panasonic jacks up their prices, so I'd pick up the Olympus in most cases.</p>
  5. <p>I've said it probably a thousand times, but given that you will lose autofocus, EXIF data, stabilization, aperture control, etc. then the best "adapter" is simply a Canon camera. This is coming from a NEX-6 shooter, by the way. Given that the electronic adapters come nowhere near the performance of any Canon, you'd be better off buying an SL1 or a T5i for Canon lenses. </p>
  6. <p>I did the same thing as you, bought an old NEX-3, I am also on Windows 8.1, and had no problem upgrading straight from Version 1 to Version 5. I did it mainly for the focus peaking.</p>
  7. <p>David, it seems that you haven't learned from your last question, we can't read your mind! Let us know what camera you're talking about and how you're using your camera, instead of a cryptic question. Do you need to wait for something to run by you, and you actually need a cable release? Do you just want to not shake your camera when taking a tripod-mounted photo? As some intrepid members have figured out from your past posting (which is just as lacking in information), you are likely asking about the a6000.</p> <p>As everyone has already mentioned, there are a plethora of options available. I have a NEX-6. First of all, you can just set the exposure and then use the auto-timer, which will do the same thing for you as a cable release. Second, you can always buy the Sony RMT-DSLR2 remote, which from a functionality standpoint, is like a cable release on steroids. And third, but unfortunately temporarily unavailable, are the Playmemories applications. You buy them just like you would an app for your smartphone or tablet.</p>
  8. <p>I agree with Peter about spending a *little* more and going with an E-M5, or I think I'd rather have the E-M10 at this point, as it has some features I'd prefer. You'll appreciate the newer sensor than the first 2 cameras that you've mentioned, and it's very useful to have a viewfinder.<br> With regards to the cameras that you've mentioned, I would get the E-PL5 every time, even though I've historically stuck with the Panasonic cameras. That newer-generation sensor just looks so good all the time, any ISO.</p>
  9. ariel_s1

    D7000

    <p>I didn't say that the AF module will see IR. I said that the <strong>sensor</strong> being infrared shielded doesn't have anything to do with the autofocus, since the <strong>sensor</strong> is hidden away behind a mirror and shutter during autofocus.</p>
  10. <p>Marco, if you had linked the correct adapter (the FD mount is the predecessor to the EOS mount), as Louis states, will theoretically hope as you work, as these adapters are merely chunks of metal that move the lens to the correct distance from the sensor. You can even accomplish this through "free-lensing," which is using objects like paper towel rolls to block the light and use your hand to achieve focus. However, I'd follow Philip's advice and just get a single adapter. They are cheap enough for a quality one, and in the real world with manufacturing tolerances, you are just asking for trouble by making the adapter more complicated than it needs to be. You can introduce problems such as the lens not being parallel to the sensor. So, basically what Andy said.</p> <p>Peter, I highly disagree with your assessment of manual focus as primary lens. So do some large format shooters (ever heard of a crown graphic?), most medium format shooters, a pretty large percentage of mirrorless buyers, most people in Leica-land, everyone that buys the Zeiss or Schneider lenses for their full frame Nikons and Canons, entire forums such as manualfocus and mflenses, etc. Go watch any number of Youtube videos or read any number of forum or Flickr posts about people using these legacy lenses handheld. I do it all the time with older Nikon lenses.<br> Eric, the question of why not to buy a used $3,000 camera is answered by . . . well, the D3s is a $3,000! Which is best-case scenario, because I would argue that most D3s' bought were bought for professional use, which means gear abuse. Banged around, high shutter count, the works. Plus, the D3s doesn't have live view composition, which means that you lose out on the viewfinder when really needing to nail focus. You also lose out on focus peaking, which is a big deal with manual focus lenses. Plus, some of the lenses may be non-Ai, meaning that they will damage the D3s. The A7s is a far superior camera with regards to manual-focus lens functionality. Asking someone to "just" unnecessarily buy a $3,000 camera is some of the worst advice I've seen in a long time.</p>
  11. ariel_s1

    D7000

    <p>Mike, the D7000 doesn't use the sensor to focus, it uses a phase detect autofocus system. The sensor isn't exposed to the scene until exposure in regular operation of the camera.</p>
  12. ariel_s1

    D7000

    <p>Get an SB700, which has an AF assist lamp, which will solve all your problems. If you want to help your camera even more, ditch the 18-200mm for something faster, but I had many good years with the 18-200mm despite its sometimes-mediocre image quality, and besides, I traded it for a 16-85mm, which isn't any faster of a lens.</p>
  13. <p>You aren't going to gain anything optically by jumping from kit lens to kit lens. I'd recommend if you're itching for a new lens, then to get something that would complement your current glass kit.</p>
  14. <p>Guys, don't forget that with a Nikon DX lens, the lens will not have an aperture ring. So, the adapter will need to have mechanics to adjust the aperture lever on the back of a Nikon lens. Don't get me wrong, I don't think that it would take more than $25-$45 to precise machine an adapter, so I don't see why some places are charging $150+ for it, besides for customers that don't understand basic engineering.</p> <p>Hoi, which lenses are you planning on using with your Sony? At this point, I could buy a good-condition D3200 for about $300. For that extra money, you get full EXIF data, along with autofocus, which is pretty tempting. What is your intended use of adapting lenses? If for photography, a better option for you may be to buy a D3200 or D5200. Given that the Nikon DX lenses are specifically made to have full functionality on Nikon DX cameras, it might be better to just pick one up. I see my Nex-6 as being ideal for manual focus Nikon lenses that work BETTER on the NEX-6 than on a comparable Nikon camera, because of live view and focus peaking. If I had lenses that worked better on Nikon than via an adapter, like the 16-85mm or 70-200mm VR, then you can be sure that I'd still have Nikon DSLRs here at home!</p>
  15. <p>As mentioned, try a different card, and I hope that you are using the camera to format the card before use as well.</p>
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