angkordave

<p>I had a lot of fun recently by setting my Fuji XT-10 on timelapse and recorded a journey I have done many times where I live in Cambodia. I have some interesting random shots of crazy traffic. When I can find the time I could put 3 hours of images taken one every 60 secs as a video. <br />The Fuji is light enough to be attached to the dash using stick on velcro. this could be done with a gopro or other Compact camera which has timelapse facilty. Alternatively you could use a remote release if you dont have timelapse. Its necessary to set camera as close as possible to the glass, use to manual focus and use a polorizer to reduce reflections.</p>

<p>The 6d is fine for architecture; I used one (and 5dmk2) for this purpose. I do question the need for an F2.8 lens as you really need a small aperture F8-16. The 17-40 worked well for me and Sigmas 12-24 gave an incredibly useful wide angle; good for confined spaces like bathrooms. To get best results I used manual focus and a tripod; but with 6400 ISO a 6D can be used hand held in quite dark conditions.</p>

<p>Fuji Lenses are optimised for Fuji Cameras; which means that distortion and vignetting are corrected in camera. <br />Even the cheap 16-50 kit lens and 50-230 have remarkably low level of distortion and no vignetting that I can see. <br />The higher end Fuji lenses are a lot more expensive; so unless you are prepared for this; go for a cheaper Nikon or Canon DSLR. The 2 lenses mentioned above make a useful lightweight travel kit. I started with an XT-10 + 16-50 kit lens and 50-230 and soon realized that how good the system was so sold a lot of Canon gear to expand my Fuji kit.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Lr with Photoshop is so cheap now at $10 per month that its not worth using DNGs</p>

<p>If you get a mac ensure you have a mimimum of 16gb RAM For flexibilty (if you can afford it) a macbook Pro with external monitor. I used to have a 2011 15"MBP quad core i7, with 16 GB Ram which worked well. I bought a 2013, 13" Retina MBP which had 8GB Ram and 500GB SSD for travel. Its not so fast as I expected and cannot upgrade.</p>

<p> I know the XT-1 has been superseded by the XT-2 but I ended up buying an XT-1 as the replacement did not have enough befits to justify the expense. I already had an XT-10 which was impressive but the buffer at 8FPS was poor. The XT-1 can shoot 40 Raw files with fast card which is good as I would need.<br> <br /> Now I have Lightroom and Photoshop updated I can now use the RAF files. These have a better dynamic range in the Highlights and significantly less shadow noise if pushed 2 or more stops as compared to my Canons. Even when shooting white birds against a dark background in harsh Australian light, a modest amount of highlight correction gave results that would be hard to achieve with my 6D.<br> <br /> The Fuji 35mm 1.4 lens is superb, lightweight and discrete. <br /> I also picked up a cheap 50-230 lens. Its plastic build did not give much confidence and the 6.7 max aperture hardly impressive; but the IQ is sharp. Its a very light travel lens for daylight and no major shortcomings in sharpness. The 10-24 F4 is a good ultra wide which I use a lot. It’s quite a heavy lens and well made<br /> An XT-10 and XT-1 with, 16-50, 50-230 and 35 F1.4, makes for a useful lightweight travel kit.<br /> Battery life is a good for the battery size. I managed to get 325 jpegs over 6 hours the recently trying out the Interval shooting facility. Thats a nice trick!<br> Overall</p> <ul> <li>IQ is very sharp and better than could be expected from 16mp</li> <li>Dynamic range is better than my Canon 6D</li> <li>Viewfinder is bigger</li> <li>I like the ISO dial</li> <li>8fps for over 40 RAW files; exceeded my best expectations</li> <li>The focus system is quite good; but with the 50-230 I have a lot of missed shots when shooting flying birds (this could be the lens)</li> <li>Weather sealing is an advantage</li> </ul> <p>Downsides</p> <ul> <li>The system is not cheap</li> <li>No built in GPS</li> </ul>

<p>Canon were too late with this; I'd been waiting for a few years for Canon to come out with a mirrorless with a viewfinder and to be compatible with other canon lenses. I jumped ship to Fuji XT-10 and XT-1 the latter outclasses all but the pro Canons. For travel the Fuji system is near ideal. </p>

<p>The spec of the new XT-2 lacks GPS but does have 4k video which is of no interest to me. The video on my XT-10 works well enough and the upgrade from 16mp to 24mp is not enough to encourage me to by one. GPS would have tipped the balance for me. I would not pay $1600 for the new camera without it, so have bought an XT-1 which has the same sensor as my XT-10<br />I have got amazing 1 metre wide enlargements from my 16mp XT-10. The dynamic range and lack of shadow noise blows away my FF and APS Canon DSLRS.<br> The larger viewfinder, water resistance and buffer of the XT-1 at 8fps is a big improvement on my XT-10. I was able to buy the 10-24 F4 zoom with the XT-1 for much the same price as a new XT-2. I am very happy with my decision</p>

<p>After several months using my XT-10, I have been impressed and disappointed as well.<br />The Good Stuff.<br> Now I have Lightroom and Photoshop updated I can now use the RAF files. These have a better dynamic range in the the Highlights and significantly less shadow noise if pushed 2 or more stops as compared to my Canons. Even when shooting white birds against a dark background in harsh Australian light, a modest amount of highlight correction gave results that would be hard to achieve with my 6D.<br> The Fuji 35mm 1.4 lens is superb, lightweight and discrete. I also picked up a cheap 50-230 lens. Its plastic build did not give much confidence and the 6.7 max aperture hardly impressive; but the IQ is sharp. Its a very light travel lens for daylight and no major shortcomings in sharpness. <br />An XT-10, 16-50, 50-230 and 35 F1.4, makes for a useful lightweight travel kit for much the same weight as a 6D and 24-105 lens on its own.<br> Battery life is a good for the battery size. I managed to get 325 jpegs over 6 hours the other day trying out the Interval shooting facility. Thats a nice trick! <br /><br />The Not so Good<br />I have had problems with the main switch jamming and odd glitches with the camera locking up. This was fixed by Fuji Australia. I had no proof of purchase as I was traveling but they fixed the switch. Days after I received it the camera started to lock up and after a week the camera failed again. Fuji Sent it to Sydney and I collected it there 2 weeks later. The Shutter was fixed I had my Canons with me so I could shoot).<br />Although the XT10 can shoot at 8FPS the Buffer is poor with at best a 1 second burst on a fast SD Card.<br />Good as the AF is in good light; its disappointing in very low light. Even with my 35mm F 1.4 wide Open I had a very low hit rate shooting musicians last week.</p> <p>So The XT-10 is a good travel camera but its not yet there, so far as low light AF and shooting speed is concerned. It will be interesting to see whether the XT-1 performs better.<br /><br /></p> <p> </p>

<p>I have both 6D and 70D. Unless you shoot in the dark (which I assume you don't) , keep the 70d. You will find the focusing on the 6D frustrating after the 70d. <br />Big plus with the 6D is in built GPS, for travel photography that's useful to me.<br />If shallow depth of field and bokeh is important; the Sigma 18-35 F1.8 is stellar I bought my 70D with the Sig lens and its a great combination. Bokeh is as good as a 24-70 F2.8 in full frame in my opinion.<br />Also the Video Focus on the 70D is excellent.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Good for Sony I hope they can do the same for Fuji as I have a lot of Canon mount Sigmas esp the 18-35 F1.8 which I'd live to use with my Fuji XT10</p>

<p>Image from 6D at 25600 ISO</p><div></div>

<p>One big advantage with the 6D is low light performance at high ISOs. With the F2.8 lens you can capture action in very low light. It amazed me when I got mine; how I could shoot at musicians on stage at 6400ISO or sometimes more and get surprisingly good results.<br />I've added this shot of a guitarist shot with 6D at 25600 ISO 1/125th sec at F4 using a 24-105 F4 lens. its a little grainy in the background but its clear on the guitar and strings.<br />So it you are shooting street shots at night 6D is excellent and the centre focus is very sensitive too. The outer Focus Points are not so good so be aware of that in low light.</p>

<p>Having used an XT-10 for several months now I am now using it for general photography much more than I ever expected. its so much lighter and with an excellent Digital Viewfinder that my Canon DSLRs seem antiquated now.<br> IQ of JPGs is good enough and Video is usable especially as you can use the Viewfinder, the mic socket is a pain as it wont accept my Rode mics. So for quality Video I'll still be using my 70D or 6D with an add on viewfinder.<br> The biggest limitation is not the camera but Adobe who refuse to sell me an upgrade to Lightroom and wont sell CC in in my location I really hate Adobe for this as I cannot use the RAW files without the additional process of converting to DNG which I am sure is not so effective.<br /><br /></p>

<p>I have both 6D and 7d and both are excellent cameras. I cannot differentiate between the IQ of either camera in general photography. Its only in Low light that the 6D is better. It you are used to the focusing of the 70D you might find the AF of 6D disappointing and for action it’s a bit slow.<br> That is why I have both 70D for action and wildlife 6d for low light and portraiture . Other than that there is not much difference.<br> Bokeh is better on the Full Frame but when I compared my Sigma 18-36 F1.8 on 70d against a borrowed 24-70 F2.8 with my 5d Mk 2 there was I could not say that the IQ of either were better; they are both great combinations.<br> If you are considering a 6D I would hang on to the 70D as they compliment each other well.<br> There is a cheaper option a 2^nd hand 5D Mk 2 IQ as good as the 6D up to 6400ISO otherwise both handle well.</p>