andyfalsetta

If as Orsetto suggested, the cocking mechanism is at fault, it is not difficult to remove the screws securing the mount to the lens, withdraw the tube and clean/lube the cocking spring and pawl. For those of us who have had these lenses apart, they are quite honestly the absolute most fragile of all Hasselblad lenses. Look at where the shutter is located, then measure the length of the lens barrel. That barrel is held on to the shutter with the same number of screws in the same aluminum casting as an 80 mm lens! What were they thinking?. You don't need to be a mechanical engineer to figure out the load on those screws is incredibly high. Bump your lens/lens hood into anything more rigid than a feather and you stress those poor little screws and their threads, causing the entire lens assembly to wobble until properly addressed during service. .

If you want to prove Rodeo Joe's theory, snip out a postage stamp sized square made out of the sticky part of "sticky notes". Stack up five or ten of them and place the stack dead center on the lens. Now do your shutter release test. In theory, the shutter would remain stuck for a lot longer if the mirror is now being held by the paper sticky notes. It sounds like the helicoid and lens group is completely out of position. This probably was done by a previous tech and the folks who just did your CLA just assembled it the way it was (thinking it was correct). And as Joe said, (other than the test I suggested) don't use that lens until it has been repaired.

"releasing the jam" doesn't provide a clear explanation of what you had previously done. If you are referring to using a screwdriver to wind the shutter release spring that would be one circumstance. However if you used a screw driver to follow Youtube wisdom, allowing the shutter release spring to unwind one cycle, that is a different circumstance. The latter procedure weakens the shutter release spring tension each time you do that maneuver. The result is that after a couple of these "work around repairs" the body will fairly consistently jam until the spring is wound correctly (four full turns), which requires a rather complete disassembly to achieve.

Dan, next time this happens, (since you had no film in the magazine) you could have slipped the film holder out of the film magazine. Then by lifting the small round door on the back, you could peer through the film gate, and the open auxiliary shutter flaps so you could insert a tool to reset the shutter.

Will not Hasselblad do this?

Q.G., The Hasselblad Historical site that you mention has been extremely helpful in many different ways. Lots of fantastic information up there. As relates to this particular Series One. I don't think I can pass up an invitation from you :) So yes, I would certainly like to have it included. Will this camera bring the total known examples up to 30? Why not send me a PM with the info you need and I will reply with the needed info. I also have interest in the Hasselblad Historical feature that supports matching original film magazines with their original camera and will explain what I have and have interest in finding a match for. Thanks, Andy

An early Hasselblad

Balance staff?

I have experienced this as well with camera equipment and also with wristwatch items. For example: I have followed auctions for exactly the same Omega movement that have essentially the same shipping charges, yet the first auction ended much higher than what the second ended at. I have also seen items not sell when listed as an auction and then sell for more than the original "Buy It Now" when it is relisted. Example" A set of Omega parts manuals - listed as an auction with $0.99 starting bid, and a Buy it Now of $20.00. No takers. The same seller relisted a week later as a straight "Buy It Now" of $30 and it sells. (smacking forehead). As you say, its not rational.

True. And I'll add another factor. A year or so ago, Hasselblad 1000Fs were $650 cameras all day long. I happened across one on eBay that had a ridiculous Buy It Now number. The seller didn't include photos in the listing. Only after dogging this lazy seller for more information did I get serial number info. Realizing it was a very rare one, I paid up. After that, asking prices seemed to go nuts for cameras that weren't special at all. I can't help but think that some buyers just cruise through "sold listings" and base their purchase decision off how much others paid - without understanding what others actually got. It can be a vicious cycle.

Who do I contact to have a few thousand 80mm Planar front elements 3D printed? I can also use 500C aux shutter clock springs.

I think the NEXT shot after firing off on that rig is the one you have to worry most about vibration (unless you wait fifteen minutes between exposures) :)

When shooting close ups (on a tripod) like minimum focus on the 80mm on my 500c or when using an extension tube, the vibration is real and although the average viewer may not see it, you don't have to be critical to see its impact - especially with digital. I have made a habit of pre-releasing the mirror for this reason.

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