alfonso e. perez-gonzalez

<p>I, previously, gave my opinion on the CoolScan 4000 here: <a href="/black-and-white-photo-printing-finishing-forum/00dbyQ">http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-printing-finishing-forum/00dbyQ</a></p>

<p>Most important aspect of photography is to get the shot. Meaning, it doesn't matter how, just get it, or you'll regret it.</p> <p>Having said that, the price ratio of the lens to camera should not be considered, only that it's within your budget and the purchase accomplishes your needs. However, once you begin investment in a system (Canon, Nikon, Sony, etc), switching systems will be costly.</p> <p>The sensor, lens, and RAW capture capability combination are the most important factors. Any extra money spent on features and the camera body are best sacrificed for a higher quality sensor and higher quality lens. As your budget increases, over time, buying features and different camera bodies will provide you with the conveniences you require. Of course there are exceptions to all rules, but you will know when you need to break the rules.</p> <p>Lastly, it's not the equipment, but how you use it.</p>

<p>Stopped reading after "multi level marketing"</p>

Simple answer: The filters affect the light hitting the film. Once the color has been removed by the b&w film, it is near impossible to simulate how the filter transformed the light on the film from the film itself.

<p>Though you've said you've cleaned the inside of the camera, this looks very much like a hair and dust on the sensor. If the spots and line become more pronounced as you increase the f-stop (higher f-stops), then I would definitely say it's on the sensor. There should be a menu setting for cleaning the sensor. Also, use a pristine sensor cleaner and do not scrub, but wipe in one direction only. Make sure to follow cleaning instructions carefully. Lastly, it may be difficult to see dust and hair on sensors unless you have a bright light and you move the light around.</p>

<p>You can always cut off small pieces of the film and develop them and test various times and developer ratios. Once you are happy with the sample, use those parameters for the remainder of the roll.</p>

<p>You'll have a stronger case if you have the contract listing the specific types of photographs that were supposed to be taken; this can work against you if points such as "full length" are missing. Also, if you can do a physical comparison on what you got and what was to be reasonably expected by comparing it to the sales material (website, pamphlet, catalog) you <em>may</em> have a shot at compensation.<br> Note: I'm not a lawyer. I just play one on TV</p>

<p>Putting distance between themselves and the accusation with bodies of work seems to work. Also, to show the work that is in question would help. Let people make their own decision. Hiding anything will force people into making your friend more suspect. Just like a horror movie; it's scarier when you don't see the monster and have to imagine it yourself. </p>

<p>This may help:<br> <a href="http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/70-300do.html">http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/70-300do.html</a></p>

<p>My guesses are (if these bands are visible with the naked eye, and not only with the scanner):<br> 1) Old film or bad batch<br> 2) Film was refrigerated and didn't have enough time to warm up to ambient temperature in a sealed and dry--low humidity-- container or original sealed container...but even distribution of lines makes this theory less likely<br> 3) Improper developing process or equipment was not properly maintained<br> 4) exposure to x-ray or radioactive source<br> If the bands are not visible with the naked eye, it may be the scanner.</p>

<p>A few things:<br /> 1) Try a warming/color-correction filter (weakest to strongest: 81, 81A, 81B, 81C, 81D, 81EF, 81Z, 811, 812, 85, 85A, 85B, 85C, or )<br /> 2) Try using a gel for fill in flash with a warming color (yellow/gold)<br> 3) Portra 400 UC<br /> 3) Ask the lab to increase the magenta to help warming up the image<br /> 4) Over-exposing can cause loss of detail in highlights--white dress--in film (the opposite for digital)<br /> 5) Practice your metering<br /> 6) If you want more contrast, under expose (the entire roll by the same amount) and tell the lab to push the film by what ever number of stops you under exposed. The more you underexpose, the more contrast you will have.</p>