alex_hall3

<p>Thanks, I've just realised that I am able to calculate this with my Yungnuo 560 (GN of 58) using the table.<br> I am having difficulty getting mead around it, ie. calculating flash power required at a certain aperture and distance, for example f8 at 2 metres (ISO 400). </p> <p>Does anyone know of any <strong>practical</strong> guide to using this method? I have found lots of long winded guides and calculators, but would like to see how it is done in practice.</p>

<p>What is the best kind of non-TTL flash for a film camera, where taking a reading isn't always an option?<br /><br />I have seen flashes that have an aperture and distance gauge, so it's possible to gauge distance/power through that.<br> This is to use with my Fuji GW67III. I'm not sure if TTL <strong>is</strong> actually an option with film cameras? Please correct me if so, as this would also be an option.</p>

I've had a couple of issues with my Fuji 67 rangefinder. after finishing a roll i open the back and although the film is rolled ,it is not tight and looks as though it could let light in. not sure what is causing it but think it might be down to leaving the roll in too long. it gets moved about then becomes loose. I've been putting the film immediately in a container so it can be protected against light. is there a good way to deal with this? is it possible to unwind again in darkness and roll tight again and stick? although some light may have already got to it i wouldn't like to throw it. fuji gw670iii