ajoy_roy

<p>If you have a Nikon DSLR, then get a Nikon film camera, as most of the current lenses are usable on the older film cameras (except the G lenses and the current lenses with E diaphram). That way you will have some lenses for the film camera.</p>

<p>Rear of lense</p><div></div>

<p>That is not the tab, I was describing. This is the lever at the lense mount. Moving it sideways will open the aperture. Normally in modern lenses the aperture is closed when not mounted, and wide open when mounted. You can see the lever at the right after the contacts.</p>

<p>With the "range finder" focusing is quite simple. Bring the focus to closest distance, then while watching the range finder rotate the focus ring till it is centered. I was brought up on manual focus Zenit film cameras, so that helps.</p>

<p>There are two parts<br> . The <strong>aperture lever</strong> at the bottom of the lense. Normally when you look at the lense from bottom, you see the aperture closed to the setting on the aperture ring. Let us say it is set at F16. Moving it from its normal position will open the aperture fully.<br> . The <strong>tab on the lens</strong> near the aperture. This will not engage till the maximum aperture is selected - F22 on my 50mm F1.8 AF. It is set to ensure that the aperture can be closed fully.<br> <br />Now when you set the aperture at F22 and mount the lense, the body moves the aperture lever to open it. If you look at the mounted lense the aperture will be fully open. When the camera fires, the aperture lever is moved by the body to the desired F stop. If the aperture is set to a value less than the maximum, it will stop at that value (that is why you mount the lense with maximum value (minimum aperture) set. This behaviour was designed a long time back for manual cameras and was called "automatic aperture". When you focussed it was with lense wide open, and when you shoot the aperture is set to that on the ring. Prior to that you had to manually open the aperture for focus and then stop it down for shooting.</p>

<p>My son had bought D70 and then a D300, so I was using D70. This march I got a D3300. If you want a light bare bones body, this is it. It has no motor, no bracketing and outputs RAW in 12 bits.<br /> Apart from that it is fantastic body with one of the best and sharpest sensors. I find no difficulty in manual focus. If your eyesight is fine, then the view finder gives crisp images when in focus, else if you are like I am, with bad eye sight, then use the "range finder", which is dead accurate. After D70 you will find the low weight a boon.</p> <p>The only problem with this 24MP sensor without AA filter, is that it will show the short comings on most older lenses. Some are soft, some have a lot of CA, but a few AIS lenses are excellent. The included kit lense is fantastic, as is the 35mm F1.8 DX.</p>