aaron l

<p>Get an 810/800 whichever. It's more capable.</p>

<p>Get FX unless you shoot wildlife. I have both and love my FX.</p>

<p>Nikon was always good about providing somewhat and very specialized products. For a long time, they seemed to get away from that, competing in the general market place, with little differentiation. Now, it seems they've gone back to their roots in a big way, providing something that no one else has. Perhaps someone can figure out a new and unique way to use this camera that'll blow the doors off photography. Or at least make it more interesting.<br> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1120493-REG/nikon_1553_d810a_dslr_camera_body.html/BI/19632/KBID/12177">B&H Photo already has a page up to purchase it here</a></p>

<p>Mike - you might be amazed how much better the D810/D750 is compared to the D300s. Unless you're shooting far away animals, the D810/D750 will blow away your D300s in everything but shooting speed. I still can't believe how much better my D800 is.</p>

<p>I use the camranger on fashion/model and architecture shoots all the time. For model shooting, it allows me to show the client/art director exactly what I'm shooting so she can see if things are progressing toward their vision. I don't have to offer them to look at the back of my camera - dorky & awkward. Instead, they get a full screen view (I use my laptop) so they can zoom in 1:1 and see if everything is sharp, the composition is correct, models facial expression, etc.<br> For architecture, I can leave the camera in one place and make lighting adjustments and test them out on the spot. I don't have to walk back and forth across a big room/down/up stairs to see how my lighting is progressing. It saves me countless hours and lets me crank out my shots.<br> If my D800 had built in WiFi and an iphone app that offered me all the controls, then I wouldn't have to use it. Every so often the USB3 on my D800 gets a little loose or something and the link drops but it comes back.<br> I know other shooters who do awesome selfies fly fishing in morning shots with it. The only thing you can't do is focus point select & there are ways around that. Zoom control - of course not. There's no power zoom on any nikon DSLR.<br> Please, don't buy it or you'll be more competitive. Haha.</p>

<p>I hope you bought a few new hard disks to store your D800 shots. My last weekend's shoot produced 400 shots which ate up 16GB, shooting RAW+14bit+lossless compressed.<br> I'm blown away by my D800 every time I use it but the one niggle is the focus - give me more cross points, Nikon. I'll happily pay more. It's just not as accurate as I want/need with D lenses.</p>

<p>The lens fine tuning does make a difference. My 80-400 on a D800 shows a consistent focus error, so I have to fine tune that lens. At least we're in the digital era where you can check this instantly rather than waiting 2 hours for your slides to be developed.</p>

<p>Yes, the camera will only record to the computer using LR. If you want simultaneous recording, you can use a Camranger.<br> I love using LR to shoot with. You can also save the files to a network drive and have your other computer running LR automatically & continuously sync from that folder, too. It works well.</p>

<p>You can use your camranger and lightroom to do this. Shoot on RAW+JPG(small). The JPGs will be transferred over to the PC and you can set Lightroom to look in the folder that you have the camranger program dropping the photos. Then program LR to watch and continuously import pictures from that folder.<br> Then you can download the RAW later. The D800 files are too big, so the camranger can't do the full JPG let alone the RAW files. Hopefully you shoot 14-bit lossless compressed. The files are just too big. I've used this method with great success.<br> The eye-fi card isn't that great but YMMV.</p>

<p>I love my Pocketwizard TT5 with the SB-800's. What a combo. Complete CLS control but with RF. And the MiniTT1 interface is super fast to change power on 3 different channels. I wish I'd bought them years ago.</p>

<p>Hook up to the HDMI out. I've used this and it works great.<br> Also, get yourself a Blackmagic HDMI to Thunderbolt so you can capture your shooting video. Then you can produce a video from your presentation and sell it later.</p>

<p>Why doesn't Nikon make every sensor a cross-point sensor. More often than not, the non-cross point sensors just don't work well enough to cut it. I would like not to have to focus and recompose. Not that I'd jump ship to Canon just for that - that'd be ludicrous.<br> I still love my D800, it's still continues to amaze me. Flip out sensors - nice consumer feature, it's just another thing to fiddle and break for me. If I need that view, I use a Camranger.<br> Hopefully this 20mm is much better than my f/2.8 version. I'd never give the f/2.8 version up, though - I can do fixed aperture shooting for time lapses without flicker right out of the gate that the G lenses can't do. Hail the 1980's.</p>

<p>I'm wondering if it's a single error or an endemic problem. Either way, I need to get something I know works, so it's back to the ND400 and another 0.9 filter. Oh well. I'll avoid metalized filters from now on.</p>

<p>I could actually see this effect just by looking into the filter with my eyes. It wasn't the lens at all.<br> So you think it's the dichroic coating that causes this? These are CF bulbs but they're in a glass globe. I looked directly into a bare CF bulb and could see the same thing. I don't see this effect with a tungsten bulb or on a cloudy day. It must be the CF spectrum with the coating. I just don't want to go on an expensive trip only to come back with irreparable issues.Looks like the filter is going back.<br> You're right, Rodeo Joe. I've needed an ND 0.3 or 0.6 for a while, so maybe that'll be a better combination.</p>

<p>Here's another sample.</p><div></div>