a_p20

Ok, thanks! I'll try that.

Hey, I shot a a roll of 35mm film and now want to scan it. The images scan, but sometimes the scanner has trouble determining where 1 frame ends and another one begins...sometimes chopping off or adding unwanted parts to a frame. The reason is that the parts of the images that are located next to the border of the frame on either side are black (or almost translucent film which is the same density(?) as the border and so this reference point becomes indistinguishable). I added a couple images that maybe clarify more what I want to explain. Can I do something so that my scanner recognizes the end of a frame and the beginning of another one correctly?

What exactly do you mean by a "single bulb in an open reflector" (sorry, new to lighting). Could you maybe link to such a lamp?

I found these lights. Would these be useful to me?: Jinbei SUN 400 8x105w Continulicht set (Occasion)

Hey Joe, Thanks for your advice on lighting, camera and film vs digital! I will be looking for a second hand digital nikon camera. I have another questions regarding your comment if you don't mind..: Could you maybe recommend a brand or model type? I am still debating on wether to buy one but it will most likely depend on the price...

Thanks all for the advice! I'll read through your posts more thoroughly tomorrow..(i'm pretty tired right now.) I like the idea of buying an older nikon digital camera so I can use my other nikon lenses(2) with it.

hm, I took a look at my lamp and it seems to be an armature for halogen plug lamps...I guess I can't use LED's with that type of lamp... Seems like I'll have to invest in a lamp after all. Could you recommend a budgetfriendly lamp (but not flimsy) for what I'm trying to do?

Hey all, Before I start maybe some short background info: I followed 2 years of photography at college but never finished the studies. I would say that I have a more than average knowledge of photography but am no professional by any means... I am now more concentrated on drawing/visual arts but I'd like to incorporate photography in my image making process. For a drawing project I would like to shoot some macro photos of parts of the face (nose, ear, eye, etc...) that will serve as references for drawings/monotypes. I'd like to get advise on a lighting set-up that will give me some decent photos taking into account the equipment I have (I'd rather not make any expensive investments if possible. Small purchases are ok (max 100€/115$ combined)). Equipment: - Nikon F80 - Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 APO macro super lens - TMY-2, Tri-X 400 & TMZ. Most likely developed in a lab. I asked the photography store that sends the negatives to the lab what developer they use but he didn't know. Developing the negatives myself isn't completely impossible but I would have to buy all chemicals again and have to figure out if the tap at the sink I use can give me the right temperature for rinsing. (I think the best option for now is have them developed (so I guess no suggestions that need pull or push developing.)) - Olympus E-300 (digital camera; I don't think I can use that Sigma lens on the E-300?) (- Zuiko digital 14-45mm F3.5-5.6) (- AF Nikkor 50/F1.8D) (- Sigma 28-70mm D Aspherical) I can darken a room and use a desk lamp to illuminate the face. I have a whiteboard that I can use as a reflector? (maybe there are other easy to obtain materials that I can use as reflectors? (styrofoam?)) Maybe there are outdoor setting that can work to my advantage? Below are some examples to show you what I am looking for (images that give the illusion of three-dimensionality, wide tonal range, ...). Someone in another thread suggested a 150watt equivalent LED to illuminate the subject (combined with a reflector to soften shadows) so I might try that... Curious to hear your opinions

Hey Joe, Thanks for those tips on lighting! That will help alot! I will try with a 150 watt equivalent LED. I was wondering if I can use a piece of styrofoam (or a whiteboard) as reflector? The reason why "it has to be" film is because my macro lens only fits on my analogue F80 (or so I suspect).. I have an olympus E-300 digital camera (which is quite old too) but I doubt that Sigma lens will fit on it? That is the reason why...(I do have a Samsung Galaxy A5 smartphone, but haven't investigated how to shoot macro with it..) yes, that's what I mean indeed. Edit: I would remove the photo with the watermark, but I can't edit the original post...

Exactly..they are references for making monotypes & drawings. That's an interesting tip for scaling up a drawing, that might come in handy, thanks!

You are right, I did start by mentioning IE 3200 in my enthusiasm but is in no way a must for me...I will have a look at the lighting section, thanks for that. I have developed my own film and have a sink I could use but the only issue is that there are seperate taps for warm and cold water so that might be a problem maintaining a stable temperature for rinsing...I also don't have any chemicals right now and for the amount of photowork I do I don't know if it's justified investing in all that if I'm only going to use it for a couple rolls...I agree though that that would be better. I'm planning on scanning the negatives.

Hello Paul, I might not have been very clear in formulating what it is that I want, but what I'm asking is a suggestion(s) of a lighting set-up taking in consideration the materials I have(film, lens, camera, lamps (you commonly find in the house(desklamps,...) or outdoor circumstances) that will produce something workable (the reason why I included some examples,was to give an idea of what I mean with "workable"). Hope that's not too unreasonable of a request.. Cheers, A.

Hey, For a drawing project I want to shoot some macro images of parts of the face (eye, nose, ear, etc...) that will serve as references for the drawings/collages. I'm shooting with a Nikon F80 and Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 APO macro super lens. I was wondering what film would be best to use at 3200 ISO. I have the option of TMY-2, Tri-X 400 or TMZ (all of them are expired but they have always been in the fridge). I shoot the images in a darkened room with a desk lamp illuminating the different parts of the face. What I am looking for are images that have alot of depth/volume and tonal range for them to be interesting to draw. (The macro detail of a part of the face itself is not very interesting, so I'm hoping to create more interest with the lighting.) Do any of you have suggestions concerning lighting that might achieve this? I also plan on shooting some images outdoors at the golden hour. Some examples of the direction I want to take the photographs: Interesting lighting, but a bit too much contrast. I would like to have more difference in the tonal range. Another thing I noticed when shooting on the macro setting with this lens is that spot metering doesn't seem to be very accurate. The measuring stays the same wether I aim at a lit part or wether I point it at something in shadow. I don't know if this is because of the lens (macro setting) or ... ? I have the camera on a tripod so I haven't thoroughly examined this. Maybe someone with experience can tell me how to make accurate measurements. The films will be sent to a lab for development. I asked my store what developer they use but he didn't know. So to recap: 1) What film would you recommend? 2) Suggestions concerning lighting. 3) Spot metering with Sigma 70-300mm (on macro setting). Thanks in advance! A.

Hey guys, Sorry for my late reply. Thanks for all the info. I will probably shoot the TMZ@1000 or 3200 and have it processed..I don't know if my lab uses different times for different types of fim but I doubt it..I will ask.

Hey, I shot some Kodak Tmax 400 (TMY) at 400 ISO yesterday. The film has been in my camera for quite some time. If I have to guess from around 2010 (the film expired on 09/2010). I didn't compensate for possible loss of sensitivity by overexposing because I figured it was B&W and not that prone. Should I ask the lab that is going to process the film to process it differently? I read somewhere about having half of the roll processed one way (normal) and the other half as they see fit(?). Any more advice on this approach? I have another roll of TMY, a roll of Tmax P3200(expired on 03/2009) and some Tri-x(expired on 03/2010). Similar to the testroll these haven't always been in the fridge though (possibly a couple of summers in a hotter than average room (=bedroom under the roof)). Any recommendations for shooting and processing these? Thanks in advance, A.