a._cook

<p>Thank you</p>

<p>I think we should let other people decide about what they can contribute, things will take their course this way.</p>

<p>Why then to get a focused shot I don't coincide the double image, actually leaving the two images separate? Sorry, not able to understand, not experienced in mech issues.</p>

<p>Sorry "collimation", read something about it. I think it just needs to its focus corrected, like I see when focusing with the moving double image set a little bit to the left inside the vf.</p>

<p>John Shriver,<br> who would be a good technician who could repair the focusing problem the lens has,<br> calimate and align the focusing mechanism? I don't know what "calimate" is. <br> Is there in Europe, even better in Greece? One technician who's supposed to know Leica kept a couple of slr bodies I wanted to have serviced for a year, so I am not going back to him.</p>

<p>thanks for your responses. Will check as soon as I get beck from work.<br> I did an experiment. I kept the double moving image a little bit to the left and everything came in focus, like a Leica is supposed to be. <br> The M8 is checked with the same LTM to M Leitz expensive adapter with both a summar and an Industar 35mm same focal as the ELAMR 35MM And of course as I mentioned before not any problems. <br> So it s between what you say, having picked up some residue on the lens metal, or a calibrating issue that the lens has. <br> The focused pictures are worth it, even if I have to guess the correct focus. Ken hasn't got any articles on the 35 Elmar, just the 50 collapsible. I got the 40mm Summicron C for sharp results, the Elmar 35 will be one of my favorites.</p>

<p>Yea I know summaron, three times the price. <br /> I happen to like Tessar, this the reason I got this one, knowing it is soft. <br /> Perhps I haven't made my self clear enough. Pretty much James understood correctly more than I wrote on the lens. Tried it on a M8. Different apertures, up to 9-11. Yea it was sharper then, but it was also a matter of focusing right. Can't compare it to modern lenses, and sharpness isn't the reason I bought it, character it was. Soft is OK, but "soft" as in out of focus because it is not easy to focus is another. I also have an old summar, and even though not much more resent than the elmar focusing is a lot easier. Any way I love small lenses, love Tessar, and I am going to have someone look at it. Thought there might be a specialist on the forum, like an experienced repair man who has dealt with focusing issues after years of use on this lens. Glass seems to be with out scratches fungus or naked eye detectable fog. Thank you both people.</p>

<p>Very soft, plus when focusing the double image moves a little bit to the right or left, and not sure that focus is right.<br> On a M8, checked with more than 20 shots.<br /> What's wrong?</p>

<p>1)Is is not compatible with OSX snow leopard.Can I just use a SD card on a card reader, into the macbook?Or the incompatibility will cause lightroom 2something, not to accept the DNG files?I usually shoot raw, and I've had a bit of a hard time converting my E-P1 ORF's to DNG into lightroom, but it worked and I haven't had any problems. This will be my second digital.<br> 2)Another thing, other than the crop factor difference, x2 vs x1.5, is there any significant sharpness quality difference between the two sensors?I have to say I am amazed from the shots I've seen with out the Anti Aliasing Filter on the Ricoh, it seemed to stand out.<br> 3) For all the folks who know me in this forum, I've moved on, learned to ( or should I say experimented successfully a few times), develop 35mm film using Caffenol. Color wise, other than slides, digital is my only option. Therefore E-P1, and now Ricoh -A12 M mount.</p>

<p>Good news is my camera couldn't have been exposed enough for it to get contaminated.<br> Nuclear power is an issue. People should be cautious, other wise governments wouldn't be spending as much money for protective measures. We should be able to understand that it is not only important to get energy, but also preserve the earth for our children and our children's children. So we shouldn't allow for new nuclear plants. There are other sources that are safe and unexploited. Radiation is a serious thing, not to make jokes with about camera tastes, you like Nikon I like Canon type of arguments. </p>

<p>Not anew camera. It is a Pen FT. I didn't know who owned it. Hence the question.<br> Also have a pen F with a microscope adapter and a circular vf. Only fault is a crack in the mirror, in good working condition. I am not going to buy a microscope so I won't need it.</p>

<p>I really don't know.<br> Me and a couple of other people thought about it, but haven't posted anything before.</p>

<p>Hi Sarah,<br> I am not that worried.<br> I am doing other things while posting questions this weekend.<br> You've helped me like everyone else on this forum,<br> and I admit I haven't been engaged enough in order to read and understand more about what it is all about. <br> Just a question mark along with buying from JAPAN after the nuclear accident.<br> I do have another one for sale, but I can't go cheaper than 530 euro, a Leica CL with an Elmar C 90/4. CL having been cla'ed and the rf adjusted so it is perfect, and the Elmar C in more than excellent! They both come from Europe. <br> I am a teacher too by the way. I teach art/highschool level, painting is what I do. Thanks for all your valuable time and info. Great people in photo.net.</p>

<p>from what I understand the substances that are radioactive have a nucleus that emits neutrons, it lets them go, it is not stable, it changes, and it changes any other type of atoms or molecules that is near it. If it is like that then it is very easy to become contaminated, all you need to do is get close to it. <br /> Now if I've described it wrong then getting close to something radioactive is not just about enough in order to get contaminated.<br /> The cloud chamber, how do I go about, do I look it up on the internet or can you explain it, in simple words? Already got a lanthanum lens and another ltm39 one bought from Ukraine.</p>

<p>What is a cheap way to find out if a camera has been infected?<br> Although the only way the camera is infected would be if it came in contact with a man who him self was so,<br> or fell on infected soil or ground of any kind. The person who sold it said the 38mm was oily and couldn't sell it to any one, a sign that he probably wouldn't sell something he knew had been contaminated. Any way best way is to test.</p>