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Mamiya C330, 180 4.5 lens @ 5.6. Tmax 400 in Tmax developer 1-5 for 8 minutes. Very pleased with the results except my framing. -
By steve_swinehart · Posted
Before there was Spot Tone, photographers used India inks. You can find India ink online and at art supply stores. You have to mix up your own concentration as the inks are extremely saturated. Your photographic image will have a color tone depending upon the type of paper emulsion, developer, and if you've used a toner. You'll need more than black ink so I would get black, blue, and brown. Buy a small plastic art mixing tray, the kind with small wells. Put a couple of drops of the ink in each well. Let the ink dry so you have only the dried ink pigment in the wells. Then wet your retouching brush. Pick up a small amount of ink and spread it out on the plastic tray area and with your damp brush continue spreading it out until it is about the color density needed to match the area to be retouched. Rinse your brush and make it slightly damp - dry it with a paper towel by squeezing the bristles gently in the paper towel. I know this will sound "gross" to the faint-hearted, but the best way to put a point on the brush is to twirl it lightly on your tongue. India ink is not poisonous and you won't die from India ink poisoning. India ink is carbon black, gum arabic binder, and water. Or, learn to use a small damp piece of chamois and point the brush on the chamois. Find the tone needed, pick some up on the brush point, and apply it to the white area to be spotted. This will take some practice, but you'll soon learn to intermix the ink colors and thin them as needed to match the tone and density of the image. Spot Tone was simply a convenience. India ink will do the same thing, it's just more concentrated than Spot Tone so you have to thin it out more. -
I see no contacts on the hotshoe. Just a flat surface. There is just a socket on the camera for a trigger cable. I am still going through my first roll. Curious how they will turn out. I also have Canonet 28 and on first pass it seems to be a simpler camera. Certainly, much lighter, which makes a big difference for street photography. -
I can't answer specifically about your Beseler head, but a Zone VI head that I used for 15 years had 2 cords--one that went to a heater and another that went to a timer. I don't think that the lack of a heater would have made the light uneven but it certainly effected how long an exposure that a print required. Have you noticed that printing exposures are particularly long with this head? -
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