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Boston

by Philip Greenspun

Architecture

There are two nice places in the city to photograph old architecture and Victorian ironwork: Back Bay and Beacon Hill. Commonwealth Avenue along the Back Bay is particularly attractive because it has a tree-filled median strip. If you want sleekly dressed yupsters in the foreground and a lively commercial air, visit Newbury Street. On Beacon Hill, you'll want to focus on Louisburg Square, off Mt. Vernon Street. This is a small square lined with $1 million townhouses, best on overcast days so that you can get detail in the buildings. Charles Street, the main commercial drag, is also worthwhile.

One of the most interesting places to see old and new together is the John Hancock Tower on Boylston Street. This was designed by I.M. Pei and built in the 1970s with vast expanses of green mirrored glass. Many of the glass panels fell out of this 60-story building and killed pedestrians on the street below, but I'm sure you'll agree that the remaining panels attractively reflect the old Hancock Tower, an old church, and the sky.

Parks

Downtown Boston includes two big parks. The Common is an undistinguished piece of grass formerly used for grazing livestock. The Garden, made famous by the book Make Way for Ducklings is filled with beautiful flower beds, "swan boats" and swans in the pond, and a bronze duckling statue in the northeast corner. The Garden is bordered by luxury hotels (the Ritz, the Four Seasons), Arlington Street, and the "Cheers bar" on Beacon Street. The latter is a good place to photograph tourists lining up to buy T-shirts. Boston, Massachusetts

City at Sunset

A good place to get a photo of the city at sunset is from the Harvard Bridge. This carries Massachusetts Avenue from Boston to Cambridge and is right next to MIT.

Boston the Maritime City

There are a lot of cruises around Boston Harbor that will afford dramatic views of the city from the water. This is really the only good way to get photos of the downtown financial district. The light should be best very early in the morning.

Bring your fish-eye lens

Boston is home to the Mother Church of Christian Science. Adjacent to the church is the Christian Science publishing building. Inside the building is a walk-through stained glass globe. You stand on a glass bridge (sadly scratched and now carpeted) and look at backlit countries. Fascinating in its own right, the globe probably makes for interesting subject matter, though I'm embarrassed to say that I've never photographed it. Entrance is free.

Bunker Hill and the U.S.S. Constitution

If you want to get a photo of the U.S.S. Constitution with the Bunker Hill Monument in the background, you can take a harbor cruise or go to Commercial Avenue in the North End. Just to the left of the Coast Guard station there is a concrete walkway out to the water. You can set up a tripod and maybe a 200mm lens for a good photo of Charlestown, the Constitution, and the Bunker Hill Monument.

Harvard

Alex and Maddie. Harvard Yard 1998. Cambridge is generally dumpy. Most of the housing is wood, thrown together as cheaply as possible 100 years ago and now lumpy with age. Still, you must go to Cambridge if only so that you can say (as I do), "I went to Harvard... for lunch."

Harvard has about $8 billion in the bank. When you have $8 billion, you can have yourself some pretty nice buildings and grounds. Many portions of Harvard Yard are lovely. Don't overlook the Science Center on Oxford Street. It was donated by Edwin Land (1909-1991), a Harvard drop-out and founder of Polaroid Corporation. It is in the shape of an old folding Polaroid camera. On Cambridge Street, about a block from the Science Center, is the Graduate School of Design. All of the students beaver away in an open multi-level atrium. Makes a good photo if you're there when the light is good (morning should be best).

Don't leave Harvard without stopping at the Fogg Art Museum, if only to see just how impressive Harvard's art collection is even though they aren't really officially in that business. Toothsome Pre-Raphaelites.

There are a few nice houses on Brattle Street as you go west from Harvard Square and the street performers in Harvard Square plus their assembled audiences make good fodder for a wide angle lens.

MIT

MIT has four buildings by I.M. Pei, a good collection of modern sculpture, an interesting chapel, and the best views of Boston across the Charles River Basin. A good place for the modern look is the courtyard around the Media Lab (I.M. Pei, 1984). The main courtyards of the old buildings (1916; donated by George Eastman) are impressive in a concrete awe-the-peasants sort of way.

Cape Ann

If you want to see "real maritime New England", but don't want to fight the traffic to Cape Cod, just head 45 minutes northeast to Cape Ann. Gloucester, Rockport, and Annisquam have virtually all the subject matter that you'd find on the Cape. Make sure to stop at the Roy Moore Lobster Company on the Bearskin Neck tourist trap pier in Rockport.

Motif 1, Rockport, Massachusetts Lobster traps in Rockport, Massachusetts Alex on Bearskin Neck in Rockport, Massachusetts

Lexington and Concord

Lexington and Concord are interesting for the Revolutionary War history and their literary history (Thoreau, Emerson, Hawthorne).

Orchard House, Concord, Massachusetts, home of the Alcotts Alex at Old North Bridge (Concord, Massachusetts) The Wayside (Concord, Massachusetts), home of Nathaniel Hawthorne The kitchen and pantry at the Wayside Statue of the Minuteman, Old North Bridge (Concord, Massachusetts) Thoreau\

For a little background on this area, you ought to read the superb Library of America editions of Emerson, Hawthorne, and Thoreau.

Marshes

Massachusetts has a lot of marshes and swamps. Here's a view from Route 3 south of Boston:

Route 3, south of Boston, Massachusetts

Photo Supplies/Repair

Boston's photo district is across the Ft. Point Channel, down in the Drydock area beyond what we incredibly refer to as the "World Trade Center" (a 3-story structure used for sorry little tradeshows like MacWorld). S.K. Grimes, 23 Drydock Avenue, Boston, MA 02210, (617) 951-1480, can fix your camera in a day or so. There are plenty of M-F, 9-5 professional photo suppliers, with prices 30% higher than B&H. E.P. Levine is a reputable example. Cambridge contains a branch of the Calumet professional photo chain. It is on Bent Street near First (near the Cambridgeside Galleria shopping mall).

If you need film or a lens or something on a weekend, drive out to Melrose to Hunt's. Their prices are fairly low, their hours are long, and their stock is pretty good. SBI has a few locations around town and claims to be a professional stock house, but I don't like them. They tend not to notice that they are selling you almost-expired film at 2X the NY price.

Check my lab guide for Boston-area lab recommendations.

Hotels

Boston is a very expensive hotel town. You'll just have to suck it up and pay. Here are some really nice hotels that are dog-friendly and have high-speed Internet access in the rooms:

None of these places are cheap but the places that are awful aren't cheap either.

Restaurants

Down by the Boston Garden, stop into the Parish Cafe on Boylston (between Arlington and Berkeley) for an incredibly good $8 sandwich. Good sushi may be found at Gyuhama (827 Boylston; up around Gloucester).

Harvard Square is renowned for bad restaurants. The Charles Hotel complex has some good ones with pleasant quiet patios in summer. Cafe Sushi and Roka, both down Mass Av aways, are both good Japanese places.

If you want ethnic food, Central Square (Cambridge) has some interesting choices. The MIT computer hackers go to Mary Chung's on Mass Av. There are a bunch of Indian restaurants too, but I always get too tired to program after eating in any of them.

Events

Guidebooks

Eyewitness Boston (Dorling Kindersley) is typically good for the series. The Michelin Green Guide to New England is essential if you're driving around the area.


Text and photos copyright 1996 Philip Greenspun

Article revised April 2007.

Readers' Comments


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Steve Leroux , September 17, 1998; 01:23 P.M.

I've got a site with more pictures of Boston that should help visitors get an idea of what to look for: h ttp://www.bigadventures.com/trips/boston.

Jeremy Richardson , March 09, 2001; 02:37 A.M.

If you are on a really tight budget, can cope with sharing a room and general communal living, you could try the Youth Hostel. I was in Boston Nov 2000 and stayed there cheaply ($24 per night). It is owned and run by the city, is reasonably central, clean and secure with personal lockers. The American public health conference was on at the same time and all hotel space was taken, although I did not know that when I booked. Hostel was full of delegates. Advance booking is advised. All ages catered for.

Molly Zero , April 10, 2001; 09:19 A.M.

The hostel is not owned by the city. It's owned and run by Hostelling International; the website is here.

Molly Zero , April 10, 2001; 09:24 A.M.

Another hostel in Boston is here. Sorry - the link above is to the summer-only hostel. This one is year-round.

Philip Glass , August 17, 2001; 11:58 A.M.

For those interested in architecture and light I would strongly recommend visitors to Boston visit three buildings. The first is the Harrison Gray Otis House on Cambridge Street in Boston (closest stops are "Charles" on the MBTA Red Line and "Bowdoin" on the MBTA Blue Line as well as "Government Center" on the MBTA Green Line. All of these are located off Cambridge Street. The Harrison Gray Otis House is operated as a house museum and is open most days. Info can be found here www.spnea.org/visit/homes/harrison.htm . The architect was Charles Bulfinch, and it has the most transcendant use of natural light I have ever seen. Bulfinch achieved this all while constrained within the rigidly symetrical parameters of the federal architectural style. The second building is the Carpenter Center for Visual Arts in Cambridge (MBTA red line "Harvard Square" stop), Le Corbusier's only US building. It shows how free and humanistic modern architecture could become before it became a system for expressing corporate dominance. Lastly, I recommend architect Paul Rudolph's massive structure, also on Cambridge Street. It was built as the Lindemann Center, but now serves another function. A highly irregular structure made of textured concrete, it has a largely ignored staircase at the lower end that echoes Michalangelo's Medici construction. The North end of the city is also notable for its non-linear street pattern, handsome cast brickwork and terra cotta. Most visitors to old buildings look at them as quaint relics. On the contrary, architects of the pre electricity, gas and whale oil period knew how to design bulidings to take advantage of natural light. They had skills, with humbler materials, that no modern architect can match.

David Arnold , January 03, 2004; 01:17 A.M.

Phillip Greenspun's statement that entrance to the walk-through stained glass globe at the Christian Science Center is free is no longer true: they recently instituted a $5 per person charge. However the outside grounds, with two magnificent churches, a modern administration building, a large reflecting pool, snd the Prudential and Hancock skyscrapers in the background, provide a plethora of photogenic possibilities. Located across the street from the Prudential subway station.

Chris Hughes , December 06, 2005; 02:31 A.M.

This guide helped me out a lot. Many of my images wouldn't have happened without it. I've posted this to Photo.net before but here it is again. My Boston trip photo-gallery:

http://www.crisphues.com/client/boston/

Dan Burnstein , March 04, 2006; 10:08 A.M.

I live in Boston but enjoyed the guide and comments a lot - thanks. I have been combing the city armed with camera and have maybe 1000 pix of beacon hill, haymarket, brookline, back bay, the harbor, south boston, and other locales. Dan Burnstein http://public.fotki.com/npro/

Image Attachment: DSCN2211.JPG

Jayson Hudson , June 21, 2007; 08:54 P.M.

First of all, as this is my first day as part of this site hello to all. I am currently packing my house here in Denver for a move across the country to Boston. I stumbled upon this nice little Boston photography guide. Thanks for it and I'll put it to use on my visit there this weekend, while I'm not house hunting that is.

Jayson Hudson , June 21, 2007; 08:54 P.M.

First of all, as this is my first day as part of this site so hello to all. I am currently packing my house here in Denver for a move across the country to Boston. I stumbled upon this nice little Boston photography guide. Thanks for it and I'll put it to use on my visit there this weekend, while I'm not house hunting that is.

Ryan Chiechi , June 18, 2008; 07:00 A.M.

I just joined the site, but I've lived in Boston for a couple of years. This is a great guide to finding places in Boston for tourists. I've never explored the Christian Science Center, that is a great idea! I live in Cambridge and work at Harvard and you're absolutely right--Cambridge is a dump, but Harvard can be spectacular in the right light (crisp winter nights and evening summer thunderstorms come to mind). The Harvard bridge is so popular for photographers (particularly because of its proximity to Berklee and MIT) that you can have just as much fun taking pictures of the photographers.

I would add to the list the Charles River. Start on JFK in Harvard Square and work your way to the Science Museum on the Cambridge side right around sunset. The sky in Boston will turn pink late at night, but at dusk the bridges (particularly the foot bridges) are wonderfully lit and the river reflects the setting sun off of the buildings in Beacon Hill and BU. If the river isn't frozen you're also very likely to catch some crew teams and sail boats before it gets dark--and you'll get a mouthful of bugs after dark if you're not careful. Another fun one is the Fenway which has a great collection community gardens and a lot of cattails and ducks.

The Mt. Auburn Cemetery is also a magnet for photographers, but I've never had much luck there. I have some pictures here from the cemetery and around Boston/New England. Most have descriptions of where they were taken.

PS If you're near MIT and you get hungry, go to Emma's Pizza--you won't be sorry!


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