| The wide shots can contrast the surrounding landscape of the area with the
surprising and unexpected site of a deteriorating ruin. |
| A good way to introduce a ruin is to show a historical photograph juxtaposed
to a current photograph. This will go a long way in showing how the building has
or has not transformed over the years, and will create an interest in examining
the details. |
| Wide aspect shots broaden the view and give more information about the
surrounding landscape and are perhaps closer to what we see when we look at views
such as these with the naked eye. You can achieve these photographs by cropping a
normal frame down, using a wide format panoramic camera or by stitching together
multiple frames using software. |
| Examine some of the larger details and see what is initially interesting
about the place. If the site is a building you might be looking at the facade or
other details that are unique to the building. |
| If the site is an industrial or institutional ruin you will find that each
location is quite unique, depending on what the place once manufactured,
processed, warehoused or healed (or any combination therein). Look for the
structures that start telling the big story about what the place once did, or to
give a sense of the mood you are trying to convey about the subject. |
| Look at different ways of framing your subject with parts of the architecture
or structure. This will give the subject additional references to its site and
may create a more interesting composition than a straight on shot. Doors
and overhead structures are a natural for this type of framing. |
| Pulling out details from the overall structure can sometime make sense of an
otherwise overwhelming and confusing image. In the case of a steel mill where the
function of the structure is pretty much a mystery to anyone but a steel worker,
familiar forms give access and an avenue for understanding what the function
might be, or at least allows us to say "that sort of looks like a house or barn
buried in there". |
| Look for text and words, it creates an immediately accessible link to a
place, object or function and gets the viewer involved in a very direct way with
the site. |
| Stitching shots together to form a panorama is an option for sites that
are just to big to fit in even a ultra wide lens, plus you maintain a normal lens
look to the shot. Overlap many frames to be sure the stitching software will be
able to connect the shots together. For this shot below I used a tripod and
swiveled the camera so that the viewfinder was overlapping about 1/2 of the
previous frame. |
| It is a good idea to always use a tripod when shooting buildings, ruins and
similar sites. You want to keep the camera level and rock steady while composing
and carefully framing your shot with exactly the information you are trying to
capture, and you are doing all this while thinking about getting your exposure
and depth of field correct; too many things to keep track of and get right while
hand holding your camera, especially if you use a hand held light meter. When you
move into the interiors of these ruins the reasons will become more obvious with
exposure times usually in the range of 1 to 30 seconds and longer. |
| It helps to lead your viewer into the interior of the building just as you
would experience when walking into the building yourself. Show a doorway and an
entrance area, a hallway with details beyond to pull the viewer in. |
| Most modern ruins were designed and built in the days before electric lights
were in use in every room. These places are often beautifully lit with natural
light coming in through windows and skylights. Take advantage of the available
light for your exposure and use the tripod for the long exposures necessary
in the low light. This will show the rooms as the occupants experienced
them, and as the architects who designed them intended the spaces to be
experienced. A flash is workable in a pinch when there is no natural light
available, but it is necessary to get the flash off camera and carefully placed,
preferably with more than one flash to paint the room or object with light.
Another option is to open your shutter and paint the room with a hand held
flashlight or other light source, but this can be a slow process that requires a
lot of time and experimentation to get correct. |
| Film choice is important for shooting long exposures in dark interiors. Good
results can be achieved using negative film, especially when the goal is to scan
the images. While there are no hard rules, slide film can get blocked up and
become very dense from the many shadow areas making it difficult to get good
scans. With negative film the shadow areas of the photograph are the thin parts
of the negative, usually making it an easier task to pull detail from these
areas. Negative film also has a wider exposure latitude allowing several
more stops of information to be recorded on film. |
| Check the film suggestions on this site for further recommendations regarding
the latest information on films. Pay special attention to the reciprocity
characteristics of the film as well as color shifting over long
exposures. B&W film is an attractive option for shooting ruins, it will
give a completely different mood to the photographs than color would. B&W
films archival stability is an added attraction. |
| My initial experience using a digital camera for longer interior exposures is
good. Color balance holds well, better than film in many cases. Look for
features such as the ability to set shutter speed and aperture manually. A
histogram for checking your exposure in the camera is very handy, you can then
decide if you need to re-shoot immediately, a huge digital advantage. Digital
cameras can take the place of a Polaroid camera for doing test shots. Noise is an
issue with long exposures on digital cameras, and this should be tested prior to
critical use. Lower asa settings seem to help this. |
| The 5 shots here were taken with a Canon S30 3.2 m-pixel digital pocket
camera. The blown out highlights in two of the shots demonstrate the S30's
intolerance for over exposure. Some of the higher end digital cameras may handle
this better. Negative film would likely have held more detail in those areas. The
S30's exposure range seems quite close to slide film in this regard. |
| Use furniture as a hint of the age of the ruin, and as a way for your viewer
to access and relate to the space. |
| Look out of the building from the windows. This will put you in the place of
the former occupants and perhaps give the viewer a perspective on what it was
like to be inside the ruin when it was occupied. |
|
Look for objects that people handle, things that people touch and
use; things that can have a personal meaning to someone. It can make a personal
statement and create a powerful contrast to the ruined industrial or
institutional surroundings.
|
| The details can be the most powerful aspect of a ruin, it is where personal
items and objects at a human scale can be examined and allowed to tell the tale
of their past. |
| Move in and examine the subtlety of each object and explore the relationship
to the rest of the structure. Treat the site like an archaeological find,
all the details tell a part of the whole story, each shard can give meaning to
the big picture. |
| In conclusion, you may find that in your part of the world there are unique
places that once played an important role in your local history, they may be
worth a peak since this is the heritage we have gained from the past. That old
ruin on the edge of town may have more to offer than a quick glance would
suggest. This is living history, often much more interesting than the cleaned up
versions found in a museum. |
| Ask permission from the owner of the property before you attempt to
photograph an abandoned site since most sites are posted against trespassing.
These places can be quite dangerous so use common sense and caution when moving
around these sites. Be aware that there may be air born toxins in these older
buildings, asbestos dust and lead paint among them, so a quality respirator (not
a paper dust mask) is an essential piece of gear to carry.
|
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