Nikon FE and FE2

I have an FE and several lenses, vintage 1979 or so, with very few miles on them. Because I no longer do photography more serious than family and vacation photos, and because weight an space are usually at a premium, I have been using the newer, point & shoot, zoom-lensed cameras since about 1983. My FE has been biding its time in a closet since then. I am wondering whether anyone who values such a camera more than I would be interested in it. My local camera shop tells me the FE and its lenses (normal and two zooms) aren't worth a whole lot. Your comments suggest otherwise.

I bought a FE in 1977. Barry's Camera, Dallas, Texas $303. Black body. A great camera. Forget the new point and click cameras. Nikon is the best camera ever produced. I've got the MD-12 and several lenses. I' ve been all over with the FE, it is the best camera FOR THE BUCKS. The only thing that comes close is an old F body. If you want to get rid of any old NIKONS let me know--I'll buy 'em. They will last forever!

I've grown up with Nikons since 1987 when my father let me take over the use of his old Nikkormat FTn (a real beater). Have grown from having just that single body with a 50mm f2 Nikkor-H lens (now AI modified), to having an FT2 (got this one for $199 with another 50f2 and a case in 12/90), then finally got my current FM2n in 1991. I have been thinking of replacing the FTn with an FE or an FE2, since all of our lenses are at least AI now, and since my father is looking for something that's smaller and has some automation. So, when I find a good used FE/FE2 body, it will enter the Nikon shrine we have.

I sold my FE2 in 1985 to get an F3HP (needed the high eyepoint viewfinder) which is now replaced with an N90S (very nice, but it chews through the batteries). The FE2 is much missed... a smart friend bought one new and still has it (and won't sell either). Nikon has now released the FE10, which might be a reasonable substitute.

I have 2 FEs, one chrome and one black so I can tell 'em apart, and really like the camera. I thought at the time I got my first one (1982) that it had exactly the right feature set and I still believe this. I tested it initially in all sorts of weird exposure situations and it seemed to do well. The match-needle manual metering is non-fussy, the camera still has some limited function if the battery packs up, and it is small.

A comment I haven't really seen regards the ruggedness of the old manual-focus Nikon lenses. I have 7 of them (20, 28, 35 Perspective COntrol, 50, 55 Micro, 105 and 300) and they have held up extremely well over the years. The 28 and 105 in particular have been through a lot and remain mechanically rigid and trouble-free (these are my oldest lenses). In the review of the 20mm f/2.8 autofocus lens elsewhere in this site there are comments about the fragility of the lens. Those don't hold true for the old manual-focus lenses. I consider mechanical alignment an important part of sharp lenses so this is important over time.

Anyway, I don't use them as much as I used to because I have a Mamiya 6 but I still feel the old joy when I pull down one of the FEs, load up some film and start shooting with them again. And I have to say the MD-12 is a wonderful accessory.

A few years ago, I bought a nikon FE, which I think is one of the greatest cameras ever made. I find the fact that almost any of the newer and more sophisticated cameras on the market today is totally useless if the power from the frail battery is insufficient, is a giant step backwards for all photographers. In addition the modern AF lenses miserable maximum apperatures put a drastic limit to the creative proces of making expressive photographs. So I changed from my Maxxum 7000i to the old nikon and it felt like a great step forward! There is just one feature I miss by the standard equipped FE, and that is a "vertical release" like the one you get on the "power pack" available for e.g. the nikon F4. For that reason I got the idea of constructing one myself, using the four small electric contacts on the bottom of the camerabody. I have the impression that the MD11 and MD12 motor drives uses these contacts to activate the shutter of the camera, but I do not know exactly how they work. Do they apply voltage to some of the contacts, do they short-cicuit some of the contacts or what do they do? If anyone can tell me anything about the details of the electric system og the FE and/or the MD11/MD12 I would be able to get on with the project. Please e-mail me if you have any information that you think could help me, and I will be for ever gratefull! My address is: jesper@bns.dk Sincerely Jesper Boegelund, Copenhagen, Denmark

I have seven Nikon bodies including two FE's. The FE is my favorite of all Nikon cameras. It is light-weight, has all the controls for exposure compensation, and uses all Nikkor lens from non-AI to the current autofocus lens. I wish they still made cameras like this one.

I also am using my FE, I like it more than my F70 cause it is the best and simply to use camera I worked with. I just bought an MD12 motordrive, I can use my F70 when I need a motordrive but I still prefer my FE. I am planning to buy an FE2 but these are expensive lately, I want an FE2 cause of the TTL flash metering and the 1/4000 second shutter time release. For more photographic knowledge you can mail me...

Menno

I have a old FE as well as a new FM2n. Both please me a lot, but let me down on one thing. I wear glasses and with these it is virtually impossible to see the whole viewfinder at once. Since my creative work is done with a medium-format camera and I use my nikons mainly for scientific purposes (as an archaeologist that is) this is not too much of a problem. Still, I feel that the simple viewfinder indications of the FM2n (circle, plus and minus) are a lot easier to see while composing than the needles of the FE. I just keep looking around the corner to be able to see what shutterspeed I am using. However, that is the only real downside of the FE as far as I am concerned. I even sold my F601/N6006 to go manual again. It is a completely other way of photography, compared to them computerised camera's, nice and easy and that is the way I like it. At would say that at least I can service my camera's myself, but they simply did not need it yet. One more point to make: I think the real value of Nikon is in there lens- and accesory system, not so much in the camera's. I can think of several other brands that offered camera's comparable to the FE (Canon's AE1 for example)

I have an FE and an FE2, and both have performed splendidly in an especially harsh environment-- Antarctica. Yes, occasionally the batteries go dead and the shutter locks up because of the cold. But turn to shutter speed knob to M90 (M250 on the FE2) and *Presto!* it works again, albeit with a fixed shutter speed. At least Nikon still makes the FM2-- If my FEs ever bite the ice, so to speak, I have an alternative. But... I am disappointed to see the discontinuation of many of the AIS lenses. The autofocus lenses, in my opinion, are just too fragile for this environment, and suffer from "loosening up" at cold temperatures. My 80-200/2.8 has done okay, probably because the lens components are mostly metal.

The FE-2 was probably the best integrated manual-focus non-pro SLR ever from Nikon. The FA would have stolen that honour, given it has all four exposure modes, a 5-segment evaluative meter and can be powered by its motordrive, but for the absence of an autoexposure lock and the obscene +/0/- meter display. The FE/FE-2 meter needles actually show you, steplessly, how far you are from metered exposure.

I also like the flash ready-light in the viewfinder eyepiece, although some complain it blinds them. If it blinks (possible underexposure, because flsh fired at full power) you'll notice it!

If Beattie makes an Intenscreen for this camera, that can overcome the relatively poor brightness of the K2 screen. I prefer using an E2 grid screen as a standard.

Incidentally, the FE and humble FG share the honour of allowing exposure compensation in half steps. From the F3 onwards, exposure comp is in 1/3 steps (too fine?), and 2/3 step may be too much.

Not really a different perspective - I've had my FE2 since 1987. It was the first camera I bought, recommended by someone who knew their stuff. I've bought a FM2n, Pentax 6x7, Mamiya 645 Super, and Fuji 670. I still choose the FE2 80% of the time. It has survived the Simpson desert, sea kayaking, rockclimbing, rain, snow etc. Even when the battery *did* run out (about 5 years and *many* rolls after I bought it!), I could still use it at 1/250 and "sunny 16 rule". I've sold all the others now bar the FE2 and the Fuji. I won't be selling the FE2 ever.

Since 1982 I have owned an FE (subsequently sold), an FE2 (subsequently stolen), an F3T, an F4 (subsequently stolen), and an F5. I missed the FE2 so much that I replaced it in 1991, so that I now have an FE2, an F3T, and an F5. They are all wonderful cameras, and I don't plan on parting with any of them. The F5 allows shots you simply couldn't get otherwise, the F3T is extremely ergonomic and comfortable to use, and the FE2 is a wonderful combination of all-metal solidity and modern features in a diminutive package. One serious gripe with the FE2, however; it does not have the essentially 100% viewfinder accuracy of the pro-series Nikons, and this greatly decreases its usefulness for some kinds of technical work. Used as a pocket-sized creative tool, however, it is a joy.

I have owned and used several camera models from various makers. Without question, Nikon equipment has been the best so far. I have used the Nikon FE the most, with my Nikomat ELW a close second. Both models have been extremely reliable, from rainforest to desert to snowy Arizona peaks. Most of my work is done with available light and although I have read about the FE2 being less prone to vibration than the FE, i have achieved good results with handheld exposures of 1/60th and even 1/30th of a sec. All of these cameras were bought used. One FE has been dropped twice, once on concrete, with no ill effect other than some slight scratches. I highly recomend them to anyone that would like a solidly built, reliable picture taker that will not let you down.

I've had an FE since 1978 and an FE2 since just after if first came out in ~1983 (was it?). Of course, they are wonderfully made of metal and work today just as well as they did when new. The quality of some of the Nikkor lenses (in particular the 85mm f2 and the 55mm Micro-Nikkor) produced some unbelievable definition on Kodachrome 25. I previously had a Nikkormat FT (bit heavy but excellent in its day) and later an F3 (now burgled away) which I never liked as much as the FE or FE2. Just one comment though. If you are, like me, interested in taking wildlife shots, be aware that the speeded up shutter of the FE2 is noisier than that of the FE - and the MD12 is not quiet either. This causes wild birds to be scared away after the first shot. For me, the solution came with the Minolta-7000 (or Maxuum-7000 in USA) in 1985. The shutter/built-in winder on this is far quieter and I was amazed to find that the birds stayed put after firing the camera remotely. Unfortunately, later (Dynax) models had speeded-up and noisier shutters that again rendered them unsuitable for this kind of work.

I maintain that the FE/FE2 are still probably Nikon's most usable (and durable - as long as you don't EVER touch those titanium shutter curtains on the FE2!) cameras for general photography (you can add the FM/FM2 too if you like fully manual). However for 35mm bird-photography, I have not seen anything to better the 7000. Unfortunately, its body is plastic polycarbonate (get a 9000 I hear some say!) - and, in my view, Minolta should rely less on zooms, though I had quite good results with their early 70-210mm, and make more fixed focus lenses available for the ultimate in definitional quality - as Nikon do!

Is FE10 a good substitute for FE/FE2?

A friend has a FE10 and played around it a bit. All I can say is that its shoddy plastic construction (OEM-ed by Cosina) is nowhere comparable to the beloved FE or FE2. It so happened that while my friend was showing me the camera the mirror somehow got detached from the frame and was stuck in the mirror box. I suspect Cosina was not using enough cheap glue to attach the mirror to its frame.

The equipped 35-70mm (F3.5 to F4.8) lens that comes with the FE10 kit is also one of its kind: a manual Nikkor that handles like cheap AF Nikkors. Didn't test the optics but it does not inspire confidence.

The bottom line: Don't expect to see the Nikon quality (build/optical) that is normally associated with its manual lineup in this camera and lens kit. If you must get this camera try to see if you can get it without the supplied lens. (Get a real Nikkor instead.) The entire kit is not built to last so handle it carefully.

i love my fe2. i have had mine for about a year now. it has taken abuse from travel to europe and the means treets of nyc. ok, the streets here aren' that mean and it isn't antarctica, but the camera has held up very well and i love it. in fact, i think this may be one of the besyt cameras i have ever shot with. (don't take this lightly, i have shot with canon, olympus, nikon f/f2, nikkormat ftn, and leica m2) i would love to have a vertical release, perhaps the ealrier commentor will send me the info he found. i also shoot with the sb16, however i do not have the manual. if anyone could send me info i would greatly appreciate this as right now i am guessing as to how to use it (but i think i am pretty close by now). so enjoy your shooting fellow fe2 users. mike meyer

Another vote for the FE2 as the most refined MF camera ever produced by Nikon. I'm in mourning for mine right now, having just been presented with a $250-300 estimate for the repair of various defects accrued over 15 years and many hundreds of rolls shot in both photojournalistic and personal use.

That repair bill would get me a new (used) Ex+ FE2, and recently got me an FA in an attempt to replace the beloved FE2. But the FA cannot replace the FE2. It eats batteries like the Cookie Monster eats cookies; it's noticably bulkier (It's much thicker and its prism housing is significantly larger than on the FE2; and it lacks the FE2's WONDERFUL (but somewhat fragile) match-needle system. The only way in which the FA improves on the FE2 is with a slightly higher eyepoint. But overall, the FE2 wins.

None of the above comments mention my only gripe with the FE versus other camera models: no top view viewscreen. In both people and nature photography I consistently find myself crouching behind the back of my FE to get an upward perspective. The FE2 solves this problem with its changeable viewfinder. That said, I concur with most of the above comments and would be loathe to part with my trusty little FE.

Isn't it interesting that we took the old metal/ mechanical cameras for granted in their prime? They defined "camera" back then. That was before point-and-shoots and what photojournalist Bill Pierce dubbed "Wunderplastik." The Nikon FE seems more special as time passes. It's a very well balanced design--feels good, sounds good, isn't too heavy, has a relatively high-magnification finder that, for a manual-focus camera, is easy to focus (I know, many of us who appreciate cameras of this vintage are growing older, our eyesight growing dimmer). The one thing I wanted to note relates to the finder magnification. With a 50mm lens attached, the FE/FM series cameras are one of the few cameras that allow me to shoot comfortably with both eyes open. The finder image is a little displaced, but not so much as to make the visual image disjointed. This feature was one of the initial reasons for the .9+ finder magnification of the original Leica M3. The advantage was lost on the later M2-M6 style viewfinders. Leica recently attempted a "high magnification" finder, but they completely blew it--I wonder if they even realized how their own original designers had intended the M3 to be used. The 0.85X magnfication of the HM finder is not quite high enough that the photographer can comfortably leave both eyes open! An amazing blunder. With the Nikon FE and a 50mm lens, you can do it. It's a very nice feature, and one I'm sure than Nikon planned for when deciding on the finder design. It improves the feeling of ease and naturalness when using the camera, and our sense of pleasure with the design.

My first love was an FE. I bought it for $200 and used it relentlessly for a summer. Unfortunately the sponges were kind of bad. With my camera and $40 I traded to the same guy I bought the FE from, for an AF 2020. I was suckered in by the slick devil of primitive auto focus, and how I hate myself now. I kick myself every time I run accross one. But alas I am broke but soon i shall regain the glory I once posessed in this monument of a good camera. Now on valentine's i am left with a stiff date, a 2020. Well I'm probably running out of batteries right now.

My problem with FE? 1. lack of Spot meter. 2. lack of lited viewfinder. 3. lack of autofocus.

Other than that it's almost perfect. I've trying to move on to auto focus camera. Yet I haven't find anything which is good enough to replace my FE! You can't find a modern camera which has functions such as matching needles, mechanical Bulb speed, and pseudo mirror lock up.

I am 26 years old, and still love this 20 yr old machine!

I had a Nikon FE once. I had it with me on many archaeological field-works but it seemed that dust just doesn't do it any harm. It lacked a few screws but just went on. Very easy to use and reliable.

Last summer someone stole it from me in Spain and I'm mourning ever since. But will buy a new (used) one asap.

So if you ever run accross a chrome FE 3638901 it's mine.

Peter Cerce, peter.cerce@guest.arnes.si

The FE2 is one of those cameras that no one has anything bad to said about it. I certainly have nothing bad to say about mine, which serves as an alternative camera--not a backup--to my F4s (the F4s doesn't need a backup!). However, I do wish that there's some kind of inexpensive handgrip I can attach to the camera that will provide a more comfortable hold. I tried a really cheap Nikon-compatible Soligor power winder and its large handgrip did improve the hand-hold comfort considerably. Unfortunately, the thing was really noisy, and after one embarrassing incident at a church wedding I took it off and never used it again--the noise produced by the winder motor disrupted the ongoing wedding ceremony!

Postscript: Two kind members of photo.net have since e-mailed me to offer help and suggestions. (Thanks, Charles and Ross!) I have also found the thread in the Q&A forum that talks about a grip for the FM/E camera. I'm not looking for another power-winder, so the MD-11 and MD-12 are out even though they have just as nice a hand-grip as my now-abandoned Soligor winder. The GMP F-Grip specially made for the FM/E camera seems like the perfect thing, but, as I've found out, to mail-order it from a UK shop that stocks it will cost me 75 British pounds, which's unjustifiably expensive considering that I paid the equivalent of only about 200 British pounds for my second-hand FE2! I'll be checking the price of the F-Grip locally in Hong Kong, if I can find one; if it's still too expensive, I might resort to custom-make a handgrip with wood or aluminium section.

There are only two other cameras I would class in the same league as the FE2, thats the leica M6 and the Canon T90, at least in terms of pride of ownership and just utter completeness of design. I use the F90x now and have not looked back, but my FE2 so me through many a tough time and were it not for the fact that it was stolen then I would still be using that. For some reason, I could not bring myself to pay the high prices for a semi autoumatic instead I wanted all the latest technology for the price, but I would not dissuade anyone from paying those prices for a mint one, which must be rare by now, I just wish I could bring myself to spend my money on getting the esteemed FE2 and reaquaint myself with past glories. One other thing, I loved using the MD12 and use to get more admiring glances from the public then I do with the F90x.

Enough eulogy said for FE/FE2 now something negative: A bad design was the advance lever serving as the main switch. When you turn on the meter the lever keeps sticking out poking at your forehead. It is especially bad for me because I use my left eye to look through the viewfinder then the lever pokes at my right eys. Nikon must have assumed everyone would use right eye to view. Same problem with FA. The only solution seems to be attaching a motor drive but it adds to the heft. Another poor design is that the shutter speed dial cannot be turned 360 degree so if you are shooting at 1/500 then want to use B you have to turn the dial for almost a full turn.

FE viewfinder is pretty dark compared with FE2/FA. FE2 manual says I can use K,E screen on it with exposure compensation set to -1/3 stop. I am wondering if I can use K2,E2 on FE with compensation set to +1/3. Any one has experience?

I started with an EM in 1980, followed by an FM in 1981 and an FE2 in July 83. And whilst an F-301 took my affections between 1994 and 1996 (it blew up), the FE2 has served me well for the past 16 years, only failing once when the shutter exploded in 1984. I have since used it and taken thousands of exposures from the Equatorial Jungle (96F 100% humidity) to the Egyptian Desert(120F). I now have an F5 (16 months) but the FE2 remains my number one spare. 16 years of familiarity has not bred contempt but a deep love of its reliability especially with TTL flash exposures. Whilst I have tried the EOS range, I cannot imagine ever swapping (the EOS-1n tempted me in 1998 but the F5 won me over). The 28 f2.8 'E', 50 f1.8, 85f2 and 135f2.8 all survive fom 1983-85 as does my 1985 SB-15 (repaired once in 1994 by Nikon)- Don't see many better than Nikon. (oh yes we do own a Canon and 2 Pentax SLRs along with a 6x6 but still re-iterate the above)

I recently sold my reliable and much-loved Minolta equipment to finance a move to Nikon. My reasoning behind this centered upon the fact that, besides becoming increasingly difficult to repair, the Minolta line doesn't offer the fast, professional-grade lenses that Nikon does. Furthermore, as I have no desire to move into the arena of auto-focus, and cannot afford to spend an exhorbitant amount of money on a less-than-reliable camera by Contax or Leica, the Nikons seemed to be the only logical choice.

I was torn primarily between two cameras, the F3 (obviously) and the FE2. While I enjoyed the removable prism of the F3 (a feature that would be particularly helpful when composing low-angle shots), the high flash sync and mechanical backup speeds that the FE2 provided, as well as the compactness of its body (an FE2 with an MD 12 and no lens weighs about what an F3 with no lens does) made the decision for me.

At a local repair shop, I located an FE2 for sale. It was in excellent shape (compared with others that I had looked at) and was in rare black finish, something that I have never seen on an FE2. Better still, I got it for a mere $325 with a 60 day warranty! After only a few days of ownership, I can say with confidence that I love it. I have a Nikkor 50/1.4 and plan on accquiring a 28/2.8 and 180/2.8 in the near future.

I think that the FE2 is indeed one of the most perfect cameras ever designed. I would certainly rank it among my favorites, which include the old Minolta XE-7 and the Canon T90, as well as the Leica M6. I truly believe it to be the best camera that Nikon ever produced: light, ergonomic, great viewfinder and fabulous meter display (the match-needle system is without a doubt the most uncluttered and easy to understand method of showing the photographer what the meter is thinking). It would be wonderful if this camera were to be reintroduced. Perhaps they could make a mechanical SLR with autoexposure, like the Minolta XE. That way, you'd have all the benefits of the FE2 and the FM2n. Anyway, I don't believe that too many good things can be said of this particular model. It is certainly a classic.

Oh yes you can. You can change the focus screen with FE. It's all the same with FM2 and FE2. It's just that the older K, B and E screens are no longer produced and you will have to use the newer K2, B2 and E2 screens with exposure compensation or altered ASA/ISO values. It's a 1/3 stop difference. For example, on an FE with a E2 screen, setting ASA 100 film at ASA100 will underexpose it for 1/3 stop, so setting 80 for ASA100 film is the correct way to go.

I have an Fe and saw this here some where.....

' A bad design was the advance lever serving as the main switch. When you turn on the meter the lever keeps sticking out poking at your forehead. It is especially bad for me because I use my left eye to look through the viewfinder then the lever pokes at my right eyes.'

To this I can only say I have never had the problem because my right eye is closed. Yes it gets close but not that close! My nose stops anything getting poked out Ha! Never used my left eye, which brings in the question of which eye to use. I have now tried both but am not sure which is better. How do you work it out The left seems to spot things quicker like a pole out of your head but the right is more comfortable and seems to be better at composing things. Is there any information on this subject?

My best lens is a Series E 100mm F2.8 and a very old 55mm macro lens that gets to 1:1 with great results. I also have a F301 and F70 both are great but not loved like the Fe which is funny because Im a younger gadget freak. The Fe meter seems to be a weak point can it break while hiking that's what I would like to know the electronic meters won't have their needle been banged out of place. Is the meter a tout band system or a pivot system? Taut band can take a real hard bump with out snapping but pivot can jump out of its jewel and just hang there.

Over the years I have accumulated a ton of Nikon gear, F, F2, F3, F4 (no F5) and two FE2s, maybe 20 lenses, do I need it all? not. But of all this equipment what gets used the most are the FE2s, one black for slide film and one silver for print film. I love being able to take a little camera and a motor drive which is separate, use it when i want to. I can pack a light camera bag with two bodies and one MD12, compare to taking the F4s and the F3/MD4. The 1/250 flash sync and the 1/4000 sec top speed with top reliability make this a winner, the mirror up with self timer is incredible for tripod shots. Nikon still services them. Same flashes work with all my bodies (xcept that dumb F3). I have an old 600mm F5.6 on which the weight of the camera sits on the focusing threads (no IF) this camera is so light it allows me to focus this lens swiftly, it is impossible to focus with the F4s on. I love being able to match needle manual speed settings, over and under exposing on the fly, the dumb F3 has that useless LCD and even the F4 has only a semi intelligible digital display. Manually focusing the FE2 is also easier than the F3 or F4 due to higher magnification. Please Nikon, make it again!.

I have owned an FE2 (R.I.P) and I loved it. I once picked up an FM that went from being a spare to my only camera. And now I own an FE. I think I would like to get an FE2 again. And I would like to win the Lottery as well.

Good cameras. I dropped the FM from one meter onto concrete, and it kept on working. Of course it didn't look very pretty anymore. :)

Enjoying this page and this site; a clerk at BH Photo turned me on to it.

My FE served me flawlessly for nearly 19 years; from 1980 until last Sunday. I dropped the thing, onto pavement. Quite ruined my day, frankly.

My "darkroom" work is all-digital these days, but my FE is (was?) the driving force behind all of it.

Seems odd to be mourning an inanimate object, but this camera felt like a dear friend, and will be missed. I'm going to try to get it fixed, but apprehensive about the price.

As an engineer, I see beauty in things that are elegant and functional, and few items that I own meet these criteria as nicely as the FE. Every control serves a useful purpose and is well-placed. And there are very few controls that are lacking. (No depth of field preview on an N70 ?!?!) I do agree with the one poster who remarked about using the film-wind lever as a metering on/off switch, though. Overall, that's a very, very minor quibble, IMHO.

rafe b.

I luckily purchased a used Nikon FE for such a bargain a few weeks ago. I also have a Sears KS-2 (A.K.A. Ricoh XR-7), which I've had for 18 years now. After shooting some slide films from both cameras using 50mm lenses (f/1.4 on the FE, and f/1.7 on the Sears), I must say that I still could not tell the difference between the images, except for evening shots. Bright lights apear as six pointed stars on the Sears/Ricoh lens and eight pointed stars on the Nikon. The FE however, still have lenses and accessories widely available, while the Sears/Ricoh have only a limited number of lenses left (K-Mounts) and hardly any second hand accesories. Overall, I'm pretty happy with my FE's performance and will continue to use it.

Anyway, I would like to add that for the tall FE users above, you could use a DR-3 right angle finder to attach to the FE's eyepiece. This also has a built-in diopter adjustment setting. Also, I read somewhere above that you could change the viewfinder of the FE2. Is this true? I believe that only professional Nikon bodies have removable viewfinders (i.e. F, F2, F3, F4, F100, and F5). Like I said, the DR-3 will do the trick.

Neither the FE nor the FE2 has removable prisms. Both offer three different focusing screens (K, the standard split-image/microprism; B, plain groundglass; E, plain groundglass with grid) but they change through the lens mount with little pliers. The newer K2, E2 and B2 screens are brighter but you need to adjust the meter a bit on FEs who are metering for the older, dimmer screens.

My FE2 and MD12 motor drive are in excellent condition, and for sale please E-Mail me.

I began with Nikon in 1980, with an FE. Left under the seat at Shea Stadium in 1986, during the Mets' championship season. Missed it, used the wife's Canon for years, then acquired an EM. Wonderful little package, compact, lightweight, almost shirt-pocket size. Still missed something.

Have now bought and sold, through the wonderful Nikon listings at eBay.com in the last six months, an FM (primitive), an FM2n, nice, but wanted needle metering, an F-401, (autofocus is overrated), an N70 (a jewel, if you have the time to learn the starship LCD control panel), and finally my present black FE2. Feeling it in my hands, I knew I was there.

I've shot fifteen rolls the last two months since I got it, and have been very pleased, and sometimes amazed at the results. I feel like my photographic life has been given back to me, like I was let out of prison and allowed to capture images my eyes wanted to see again.

Notable shoots have been a Greek friend's family barbecue, and a difficult twilight soirie (thank God for TTL flash). Both resulted in over 80% keep rates for the exposures, using my Vivitar Series 1 35-200 f3.0, my Optonica 35-105 f2.8, my Nikkor 50 f1.4, and my Sigma 28 f2.8 I use a Beattie Intenscreen plain architectural grid focus screen and B&W filters. I have tried the MD-12 motor drive (too heavy and bulky) and the DK-3 magnifier attachment for the eyepiece(clumsy).

Would love to fit the old F Sports Finder, which replaces the stock prism/finder with a little box which gives you a HUGE viewfinder image, but am told it's not possible with the FE2. Currently am trying to find the right flash, have been through four already. Am currently using a ProMaster 5900Zoom, with excellent results. Want a Vivitar 5600/Sunpak4000/SB25, I like the lit LCD panel in back, and would like a little more flash duration control.

I am happy as a clam.

I own an FE (just got it to replace my ailing Rolleiflex SL35). My positive comments about this camera pretty well mirror the multitude you've already read. The one problem I have with it is the location of the shutter release button. My finger keeps finding the shutter speed dial, and placing it on the correct spot doesn't seem natural. This un-ergonomic location is even worse with vertical shooting. (Since I've owned the Rollei for 26 years, I may simply have to unlearn that position.) Nonetheless, I love this camera, and plan to purchase an MD-12 drive with the optional lower release to overcome this minor problem.

Regarding the shutter release/shutter speed dial comment, I use a Nikon soft shutter release adaptor which raises the release higher. That may solve your problem, if this is an item that are still available. As with most Nikon equipment, there are a multitude of accessories.

I have owned an FE2 for many years, and added a FM2N later (both purchased new when they were introduced, c. 1982 & 1986). I have been very happy with the FE2 especially because on manual, you are in total creative control. In auto, you can be creative or fast. At full aperture it will select the fastest speed possible steplessly. No shutter priority camera can beat that. After a while I noted that the black galvanometer needle (showing meter suggested shutter speed) started getting stuck. At times it would seem to drag up and down with the green needle (that shows user selected shutter speed). I gave it to someone to fix and he said he fixed it so the needle won't work but the camera would work on auto or manual. I was disappointed as I loved that needle!

Few years later, I loaned the camera to a cousin who used it for three years. When he returned it to me the battery was dead. After putting a new battery, the needle has come back alive! I am not sure what happened. May be the needle got unstuck by itself! I have decided that I am just going to use it on auto to keep the other green needle out of the way. I could get the beast serviced but I don't know where and how much it would cost. I am afraid someone might screw it up totally and do more damage than good. I thought about Nikon itself but I don't know how reliable or affordable is Nikon Co. USA for maintenance or repairs. Any one has any suggestions?

PS: Anyone own a FG? It was the lightest and cheapest and yet the smartest camera ever made by Nikon (for c.1982). It had a lot of advanced features like TTL flash and a simple program for novices. I think it easily beats the older FE's. I bought it for a friend and he used it for a long time.(To learn more about classic Nikons, try this, URL http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/htmls/models/htmls/slrmain9197.htm for a beautiful revue).

I love the comments by all. Aren't we all a crazy bunch fussing over these nothings! Many thanks to all. Bye.

I have owned an FE since '81, and I can honestly say this camera is an absolute classic. I think Nikon have lost their way a little during the last 10 years. Along the way I've owned an FG, FA, F601, F801S. The nicest to use out of all these was/is the FE. Matrix metering is over rated - using slide film on the 801s can produce hoplessly over exposed pictures. The same is true with the 601. I still have the FE with a Nikkor 28/85 zoom - fantastic, and a Sigma 75/300 zoom - OK for limited use. Because of my experience with the 801 (8008 to you?), for Autofocus photoghraphy I've bought a Canon EOS-5, which is much quieter and has faster AF than the 801. All the indications are that the auto exposure is better and more flexible too.

kelyth

I own both an FE and FE2, and was disappointed to learn (the hard way) that the FE lacks a nice feature of the FE2: the FE2 will not let you set your shutter speed faster than the flash sync speed if you have a flash attached. (If you set the shutter-speed dial to a faster speed, the camera simply ignores you and uses the flash sync speed, which is 1/250th second.)

A number of times I've ruined shots on the FE by having the shutter speed set too high, while using a flash.

I sent my FE-2 into Nikon U.S.A. for repair through my local shop which is charging a rate of 187 USD for it. They tell me that this will bring my FE-2 to factory specs and provide me with a 6 month factory warranty as well. I was hesitant, but like most other owners, I just can't bear to part with the best camera I have ever owned. Mine is a black body, also, so you can imagine how I would feel if it were lost, stolen or I was stupid enough to get rid of it.

For a camera that brings nearly 500 USD in the used market (for a nice one), I figured 187 was OK. Any camera that costs more used than it did new, I figure deserves to be repaired, don't you?

Regards, Mitch

I wouldn't trade my FE2 for a whole box full of F5's. 'Nuff said.

John Baker

Features of the FE:

lightweight and compact (about 400 grams, 14 X 9 X 5.5 cms without lens)

interchangeable focusing screens depth-of-field preview

mirror lockup using self-timer

shutter release locked when advance lever is pushed in all the way over body

both shutter speeds and aperture visible in viewfinder; neither intrudes on picture area

lever to disconnect film wind for in-register multiple exposures

accepts MD-11 or MD-12 motor drive allowing continuous firing up to 3.5 frames/second, remote control

60/40 center-weighted TTL metering, match-needle or aperture-priority automatic, +/- 2 stops exposure compensation,

Do the FE have TTL???

Pleas send an answer to my e mail, Tanks

I have been using my 2 Nikon FE2's for Weddings and Portrait photography for the last two years and love them both. I have a 35,85,105 lens and have no problems getting 16x20's. I have thought about getting into autofocus, but them I just look at the price difference, and keep useing my FE2's. I would highly recommend them to anyone, especially concidering the low cost of the manual focus lens, and the camera's themselves.

I bought a sweet FE2 about two years ago. Mistakenly traded it in when I purchased a new Nikon F100 for pro work. Couldn't wait to find another FE2 and just did! Black body and all. Yummy. Great for the streets of NYC. Now, if I could only find a good dark-room share....in Chelsea maybe? Upper West Side?

The FE was the first SLR for me and I have had it since 1982. It has been a "Tim the tool man Taylor" tool for most of my adult picture making life. Today, 17 years later, I'm replacing it. My wife wants her 17 year old daughter to have a good camera and I could see no purpose to buy her a point and shoot. So I went out and found a FE2 replacement camera and will give my stepdaughter my FE. It makes me feel wonderful that a family member might gain some insight into photography as I did for the past 17 years. My FE has been strapped around my shoulder on dirtbikes in the mountains of Colorado and the deserts of Utah. It never failed me. It bounced out of an ATV box while traveling a 4X4 road to Engineer Pass near Ouray, Colorado last year. It was returned by mail to me two weeks later, with no damage. It is simply a wonderful camera that gives you the flexibility to be creative without going to extreme expense. I love it, and always will.

My FE has been serving me well since 1984. I never really needed to upgrade as I had seen too many friends with more automated (but non-Nikon) cameras failing them after a few years of use.

Other than the virtual disintegration of the camera case, which cracked up and fell in pieces, I have not had any issues with my FE.

I am looking for a MD12 motor drive, if you have one in good condition you want to sell, let me know.

I am a serious amateur photographer, who's father was a professional. When he died a couple of years ago, I inherited all of his equipment, most of which wasn't very up to date, including a Nikkormat FT and an FT2.

Although I liked the FT2 very much and found myself taking great pictures with it, I decided after a while to get something a little better, and shortly thereafter bought a second-hand FE-2 which I think is a great camera. Certainly it's features are much better than the old FT2, especially the meter which is much easier to use. Like my FT2 it has a split screen viewfinder for focusing, and while some people don't like this system, I actually prefer it, finding it much easier to use in poor lighting than some other types.

A big plus was that I could use all of my father's lenses. While some of the older Nikkor lenses I inherited don't work with the metering system in this particular camera, this hasn't proven to be an insurmountable problem, as many of the others do. In any event, I mainly use 50mm and 28mm E-series lenses for most of my shooting, and these work just fine with the FE2 metering system.

It's also rugged as hell. I'm a fraid I just dont trus polycarbonate bodies. Last year, I was taking pictures in Montreal's Mount Royal Park in January and slipped on the ice at one point. I didn't have a hand on the camera, and though the chinstrap was aound my neck, the camera body still hit the ground beside, quite hard. I don't know if a PC body would have been damaged or not, but my metal-bodied FE2 just kept right on ticking like a timex watch.

As for the pictures, many camera-lens combinations will give you great pictures. The FE2 is one of them. But like always, the most important variable element is one's skill as a photographer. My father took excellent shots for more than 30 years with his FT, which he preferred over the FT2 for some reason, and both of those are "old clunkers" compared to the FE2. Anyway, when I take a bad picture, it's not my camera's fault, it's mine. I wouldn't trade my FE2 for anything.

Here's a gift for you all. I bought a mint FE2 in Bangkok last week for a bargain USD 330. Now when I mean mint, I mean that it took me 30 minutes to find any evidence that it had ever been used at all. Additionally, I had to choose between that and 5 other FE2s going for less (including black bodies and some FEs). So, anyone going on holiday to Thailand soon, take your credit card and something to carry the camera home in. Same goes for Hong Kong which seems to have a flood of second-hand Nikon gear.

Over the years Iv'e used many different camera bodies and systems, Nikon F, Canon F1N AE, Pentax LX and MX, and most recently the FE2. This camera has everything I need and unlike the Nikon F or Canon F1N AE, it does not way a tonne, and yet it still exudes rebustness. I am not saying that this camera will suite all tastes or, indeed, situations, but for many users this manual/automatic classic encased in an all metal body is a superb tool, especially when coupled with certain Nikon lenses. Sure, the FE2 is not perfect and spot metering would have been nice, but the presence of an exposure lock is the next best thing, (in the right hands). In the end it all boils down to taste, I like traditional layout manual focus cameras, and it have taken many years and unfortunately pounds sterling to find the camera that suites my hand. Finally, one thing that I have learned is, that any camera in your hand is far better than the top of the range 'all singing' camera left at home collecting dust. So go out there and keep clicking my friends. Best wishes Mike Wilde

I have to add a slightly negative comment. I normally use an F3, which started giving mysterious meter trouble (acted like it should before frame 1) on day 20 of a three-month trip. After a month of sunny-16 and bracketing, I managed to get hold of an FE.

I thought I would hate the small finder (after the F3's 100% high-eyepoint job) but I didn't. I missed the partial grid lines of my screen. I loved the small size, light weight and the shorter wind motion. I'm not sure about the wind lever meter switch.

But my real gripe is the metering and the display. The F3 meters almost exclusivly from the center circle, while the FE felt like it was metering the whole frame. The lack of exposure lock was annoying, and in manual I never found the scale all that helpful - just wasn't easy somehow to get things lined up, and I didn't have time to get used to 'above' meaning 'underexposure'. I think I would be better off with the FM2's display.

What I've been wondering about since I got home is whather you could doctor an FM2 by disabling the outer metering segment. Apparently there are 2 sensors, one for the inner circle (60%) and one for the rest (40%). Cutting off the outer one would of course un-calibrate the meter, but it might be possible to adjust the calibration, or shift the film-spped dial display, or else just remember to downrate your film by 2/3 of a stop. This would produce close to the perfect (manual) camera for me. Anyone know if it's been done?

A friend of mine is an avid photographer, and swears by everything Nikon. It was my luck to find an FE (with an MD12) in one of the drawers of my lab recently. It was evidently left behind by a previous professor (I am a grad student). His loss was definitely my gain. My friend got it in working condition and told me it was a great camera, and that even though it is 20 years old, it would be a great first camera for me to get started with. I already liked taking pictures with my point-and-shoot, but this has taken things to a whole 'nother level. The first lens I went out and bought was a 105mm f/2.5 AIS, which lets me take the kind of closeup pictures of people I could never do before. But you should already know that if you're reading this. Anyway, I've already grown very fond of this beautiful chrome FE. I'm glad to see it has a loyal following!

I have a FE2 with one litte annoying habit. It may be an obvious answer but I've missed it. The Fe2 has a Zoom Nikor 35-70mm f/3.3-4.5 lens. But the camera always overexposed by about 1 1/2 f stop. It is an AI lens. Clues?

I have had a Nikon FE for 20 years with an almosy perfect portrait lens (nikkor 85mm f2) the camera has never once let me down...it's a bit battered but still takes perfect pictures. I was thinking about selling and buying one of the more medern auto-focus cameras. After reading the comments about the FE I realise this would be a stupid idea and will keep the camera.

I bought my FE2 in 1984 and sadly I had quite a lot of problems with it. So far the shutter has jammed twice and after spending so much to repair it, now it has irregular shutter speeds below 1/15 sec. The viewfinder is dark and the shutter speed and metering needle is almost imposible to see in the dark. (I normally had to hold up my palm and shade part of the left side of the viewfinder to see it.) Ever tried comparing Canon AE1-Program and Minolta X700 viewfinders and you will know what I am talking about? However, I must admit it has features that is useful and comparable with most modern SLRs despite being 16 years old. How many camera's today have a flash sync at 1/250? Even Canon EOS 3 is only at 1/200! Sorry my FE2 is not for sale for it was my first camera and all my new AF stuff and Speedlights are fully compatible with it. Furthermore, sentimental values cannot be bought!

Like others, I love my FE2's (I have one and a half - the black body was dropped on a bad spot so now has no exposure metering). Apart from the many good reasons stated by others, my love stems from the degree of control you have.

With such a beautiful display, comprehensive controls, and metering that is comprehensible in its action, the user is easily able to modify whatever needs to be modified on the fly. No guessing what the matrix metering might have made of the scene.

I have used other cameras belonging to friends, and never found one I like as much. And I have no urge to go to newer Nikon models. How long will Nikon service these treasures? (not that I have needed it in 15 years). Long live the FE2.

The first time I ever came into contact with SLR photography, it's with a Nikon and ever since I've been with Nikons then. My first encounter is with a F601, but I was actually rather pissed off by the noisy AF and film wind when I tried to make closer candid shots of people. Then I asked for the FE to try out, and was immediately impressed by how lovely the viewfinder is. The difference between it and the AF machines is that, I actually feel like looking at the real thing with the FE but things seemed faked with AF machines(though I hate the K screen when it's getting dark). I don't really know why but the FE really sort of gave me some kind of interaction. Like that's when you feel you can be friends with a camera. I've tried many cameras out - Canon EOS 5, Contax TVSII, Nikon F, FM, FG, F601, F80 and even a Leica M6(and not to mention loads of cheap compact cameras), I felt that only the M6 and the Nikon F were better cameras than the FE, but mind you, the FE is a much easier camera to handle yet it never sacrifices any of the fun as with other manual focus cameras! Even now I've got a great camera of my own, a F90(the AF slows down dramatically when the batteries are 4 rolls old), I'm still looking forward to the day that I'll finally be able to inherit dad's FE - then slip a roll of TMAX or ELFORD in and journey out for a photographic afternoon. What could I ask for? And you know, I gotta show her some respect. Cos I'm only 18 - the FE's even older than me!

If you are interested in collecting Nikon cameras then take a look at my Nikon Collecting discussion group:
http://www.geocities.com/photomoderator

I've had virtually the same experience with my FE2 as has Edvin Ong. I've had to have the shutter replaced twice after jamming, and I can't help but wonder if its propensity to jam has something to do with its 1/4000 sec. top speed and the thinner shutter needed to move it at that speed. I find the viewfinder to be fairly dark, and the needle-style light meter is very hard to see in low-light situations.

But it was my first camera, purchased back in the late '80s, and despite its faults, have taken lots of wonderful pictures with it, and wouldn't give it up.

I bought my FE in 1982 and would not part with it for the world. It has never failed me, but I am beginning to fail it. In the last few years my eyes have lost some of their ability to distinguish detail in dim light, so of late I can't focus dim-light shots very well. As I've spent time slowly moving the focusing ring back and forth trying to find focus, I've lost many pictures.

My wife bought me an N80 this year to let the camera do the focusing work that I can't do well anymore. It's a lovely camera, but it will never replace its older brother completely.

I had greatly enjoyed photography during my teen years back in the seventies, using a borrowed big ol' "F". About five years ago the bug bit me again and after much research and shopping I decided on an FE. Trying to find a clean one at a decent price was not an easy task, however I happened to mention this to a friend who spoke of a mutual acquaintance who had a "Bunch of camera stuff that he wanted to sell". I patiently explained that I was looking for a very specific obsolete Nikon model but thanks anyway... To make a long story even longer, he had two pristine black FE2's with motor drives that he had bought new. Although a black FE2 was my secret dream, I never thought that I would find one within my budget. Well I bought one of the bodies (mint) for $200US (he has since sold everything else) and have never looked back. With a mint used 35-70 zoom that I also found cheap, I have taken this camera everywhere and love it more with each successive roll of film. I can not imagine ever changing it for anything else and will always be grateful for the re-introduction to the joys of photography that my FE2 has given me.

I think the Nikon FE is one of the best cameras Nikon ever made. I bought a black FE in 1989 after months of carefully watching the stock come and go in my local camera store. What drew me to Nikon was the wide choice of lenses--I could use old and new lenses on the same body. I shot for a newspaper for several years and my FE was always up to the challenge. I once dropped it on an assignment and partially crushed the pentaprism. I just picked it up and kept on shooting, the camera and the MD-12 kept going. It also survived a serious car accident (it came out in better shape than I did). I also once had an FE2 but I didn't like it as well as my FE and later traded it toward an F3. I use the FE and my F3 all the time and have used each of them as back-ups for my N90 on photo jobs. I do a lot of shooting for my church's newsletter and the FE's shutter is quieter than the F3's so I use it for all the times I need to shoot during services. The manual shutter speed isn't used much but it's great to have. It may not be fancy enough or new enough for some people, but as a workhorse it can't be beat. Regular CLAs (clean, lubricate & adjust) keep it humming and I try to send it in for one once every 12-18 months. The value of a good repairman can never be underestimated.

I recently returned to a Nikon system to ensure compatability with future Digital cameras, and tried to pick up good value for money items, that I was familiar with from my previous system (F2 bodys). The lenses were easy - 105mm 2.5, 55 micro 3.5, 28mm 2.0,tried and proven lenses, my choice of body was more difficult because I did not want pay a lot for it. After much soul searching I settled on a mint condition black FE. It was an excellent choice, it has all the Nikon attributes I require in a compact lightweight package, compatability with all older and current lenses, at a very reasonable price. I just could not justify the significantly more expensive FE2. I think the FE is a proven camera, (see previous posts) with all the features most people require, in what I think is a very important feature,- the right size, weight, and ease of handling, at a very attractive price. I highly recommend it.

I am considering purchasing a camera of the same caliber and similar functions as the FE and FE2. Does anyone see a compelling reason to have an FE rather than an FE2? How about the Nikon FMx, Pentax K2 or Pentax ZX-M?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Also, if I do go with the FE2, what are the differences between the MD-11 and MD-12 drives?

Thanks!

I have an FE2 and consider it to be a fine camera. It's easy to use and has many of the features I want.

>>>I am considering purchasing a camera of the same caliber and similar functions as the FE and FE2. Does anyone see a compelling reason to have an FE rather than an FE2? How about the Nikon FMx, Pentax K2 or Pentax ZX-M?

The Pentax cameras are nice but may not have the capabilities of the FE series. Also, you do not get access to the huge Nikon system with all its lenses and accessories. The FM and FM2 are solid dependable cameras but without automation. I personally don't like the meter display on the FM and FM2. FM3a really should have been called FE3 or FE3m.

Prices are different of course. FE2 is newer than FE and has the faster sync speed, useful for fill-flash and when chasing bugs and other critters with a long macro lens (see attached image below). TTL flash is easy to use. But if I were you I would strongly consider the FM3a which has all of the features of the FE2 and more, and of course it is new so it should last longer, if it has the same build quality. The FE and FE2 are getting rather old now.

>>>Also, if I do go with the FE2, what are the differences between the MD-11 and MD-12 drives?

The MD12 was designed for the FE. It turns off the camera meter after 16 seconds. With the MD11, the camera meter is on as long as the motor drive is switched on, so you could easily drain your batteries. With either drive, be sure to switch it off when you remove it, or it could do a partial wind and get out of sync with the body. This is from "Nikon System Handbook" by B. Moose Peterson (Images Press Inc., 1991).

When I bought my used FE2, I also bought a copy of "Complete User's Guide to Nikon Modern Classics" by Harald Francke (Hove Photo Books, 1991) that explains how to use all of the camera's features in a very thorough and understandable manner. Probably better than the original manual. It also covers the F, EL, FT2, FM, and FA models.

Problems with both FE2 and FM3a are that the meter is difficult to see in dim light and the focus aids go dark in dim light and obscure a significant part of the area to be photographed.

My FE2 is now my backup camera. My primary camera is an F4. Film autoloading, DX coding, spot and matrix metering, and AF are the main things that I miss on the FE2. I wish they had put an AF detector in the FM3a so one could use it with a plain screen, or a gridded screen such as I use with the F4, and still have a focusing aid. If they were really clever, they would make it so you could then use AF with the AF-I or AF-S lenses when a motor drive is attached to the camera, using the motor's batteries to power it. They did something similar with the FA: if you use it with the MD-15, the drive will power the camera and the camera's batteries are not used.

>>>>>Problems with both FE2 and FM3a are that the meter is difficult to see in dim light and the focus aids go dark in dim light and obscure a significant part of the area to be photographed.<<<<<

Isn't that a pretty major drawback?

I checked out an FM3a at a camera score this past weekend. It's a great little instrument, but it seemed to me that the viewfinder was not terribly bright and the view wasn't as "big" as with even the cheap Canon bodies I'm used to. What do you think?

My Nikon experience is probably pretty typical -- I started with an EM in 1982 and upgraded in '84. I remember narrowing the choices to an FM2 or an FE2. I decided to go purist and bought the FM2. While I enjoyed the FM2 completely, every now and then I wanted a bit more automation than the FM2 could provide and more flexibility than the EM had. So, in 1996 I finally bought a used FE2. Today the FM2 and FE2 sit opposite each other in my camera bag, the FM2 loaded with black-and-white and the FE2 with Ektachrome. They complement each other very well.

I agree that the fact that you need to keep the advance lever out to use the meter (and release the shutter) is awkward for those of us who use our left eye/hand. It did take a while to figure out the correct position to avoid being poked in the right eye. But, I have to say I did get used to it and it no longer bothers me.

As for the comment above, I have never had a problem with the meter in dim light -- if it's so dim I can't see the match needle then it is waaaaay too dim for the meter to be useful. (And I find the "small" viewfinder a benefit since I wear glasses and can't put my eyes right up to the eyepiece.)

I read on the FM3A page that FE2's can no longer be repaired since the parts have run out. Can someone verify this (or, I hope, refute it)?

I think the FE2 is an absolutely outstanding camera. I haven't used many other cameras so it is hard for me to compare but I like what it offers and feel that I can do anything in photography that I want to with my FE2. I also have an FM2n but I prefer the FE2 for the slower shutter speeds, down to 8 seconds instead of the FM2ns slowest speed of 1 second, it's ttl flash metering and the ability to take long metered exposures that come out perfectly. I have taken up to two minute exposures with exposure compensation factored in for reciprocity failure that have come out perfectly. The camera has no mirror lock up which is a very important feature but you can use the self timer which locks up the mirror, I find this easier to use than real mirror lock up and it eliminates the need for a cable realease since the vibrations caused by pressing the shutter release are long gone by the time the self timer releases the shutter. I use MD12s with both my FE2 and FM2n and I find them to be very reliable if noisy. I do mostly landscape photography so I have no need for auto focus, I think the FE2 is the near perfect camera.

I think it was a horrible decision to discontinue the Nikon FE! What a wonderful camera! The new FE-10 is plastic and looks horrible. But the FE.....wow!

I personally favor the FE2 because of the TTL flash and the 1/250 sec sync speed. Both cameras are very well built. I use the MD-11 winder and find that it helps to balance the camera with a zoom lens or even a long prime lens. The needle match exposure is the best when you have enough light...easy to over/under compensate with little effort. The exposure lock is great if time is critical! With low light conditions I'm usually using a flash or just set the aperture and let the camera determine the exposure (works very well). TTL flash fill is easy...just set the background exposure in manual mode with 1/250 shutter speed..dial in -1 (or whatever you want) on the exposure compensation dial...turn on the flash in TTL mode and SHOOT. I wonder if the newer Nikon cameras will be getting reviews like this in 15 years?

Prior to 3 years ago, I considered photography to be throwing a disposable camera into my pack when I went backpacking. Then after reviewing photos from a trip to Idaho's Sawtooths, I decided to get a good camera and then I would be able to take good pictures. WRONG!!!

I bought an FM2n and started reading every nature photo book I could get my hands on. In 6 months time I had 2 bodies, 6 lenses, a tripod and ball head. The second body that I bought was an FE2, I considered it my 2nd camera. That body was very old and unreliable and I cursed it. I considered the FE2 to be the most unreliable piece of junk ever made. I got talked into trading it for a newer, black FE2. Suffice it to say that I now wish to be burried with that camera!!!

I soon got rid of the FM2n and have been shooting for the past 2 1/2 years with a pair of FE2s with MD 12s attached.

Here's why I like them betterr than the FM2n: I shoot landscapes, the FM2n's slowest metered speed is 1 second, I shoot tons of multi second exposures. The FE2 has manual speeds to 8 seconds and I've taken AE exposures up to several minutes, adding a stop for reciprocity failure and ending up with a perfectly exposed image.

TTL flash, no need to say much, FE2 has it, FM2n doesn't.

Ease of bracketing, the FM2n's only way of braketing by less than a full stop is to change the shooting aperture, You can shoot in AE mode with the FE2 and bracket in 1/3 stop increments using the exposure compensation dial (AE speeds are stepless) and keep a consistant f stop setting.

Match needle is a better read-out than the LED read-out in the FM2n with the exception of reading it in low light. I can see how far I am away from matching the needle at a glance, to me the +/- LED is much less informative.

About 8 months ago I bought an F3HP with an MD4 and sent it back for a refund within 2 days, I liked the FE2/MD12 combo much better for these reasons:

Mirror Lock-up is very hard to use on the F3. I use Mirror Lock up on 80% of my exposures and I am positive that the sharpness of my images is enhanced because of that. On the F3 you must lock up the mirror instead of using the mirror pre-fire feature of the FE2. That seems great untill you actually use it. First, you can't shoot in AE with the mirror locked up on the F3, the exposure doesn't lock-in when you lock up the mirror. The FE2 locks the exposure the minute the mirror flips up with the self timer. You also don't have to use a cable release using mirror pre-fire with the FE2 since the self timer gives the camera about 2 seconds for the vibrations to die down after you press the shutter. Also, whoever designed the mirror lock-up of the F3 never thought about having a motor drive attached, getting your finger between the motor drive handle and the lock-up swith in locked position is a slow and painful experience. Finally the mirror returns automatically using mirror pre-fire on the FE2, you don't have to unlock it with the switch as on the F3.

FE2 has 250 sync speed compared to an 80th max with the F3.

The Flash Mounting on an F3 is absurd.

There's no accessory shoe to put a bubble level in on the F3.

I just bought an F4s, I like it a lot, some of the problems with mirror lock up are the same as the F3 but at least I don't have to bruise my finger to unlock it. It has a normal ISO shoe and 1/250th sync-speed. It has a 100% viewfinder,It matrix meters with my manual lenses, It'll do rear curtain sync with an SB 24 and auto bracketing with a MF23 back. I think I'm going to keep it but don't think for a second that I'm getting rid of either of my FE2s.

By the way all you FM2n fans who conned me into believing that the fact the shutter will still operate without batteries is a huge advantage.... CARRY EXTRAS, THEY WEIGH ABOUT A TENTH OF A GRAM!!!!

gee, to me the FE2 is just the best 35mm camera you could ask for. I have owned a cute black model for 3 years now and couldn't be happier.
Especially photographing in the streets or everywhere you need a stealthy, unobtrusive approach. Its a reflex camera but a small one. I mean, i usually walk around with just the nikon 35mm f/2 D lense (another cool feature of the FE2: works with every AF lens!) on it and it's perfect! Its almost like a leica m6, unbelievable! the meter is the best i've ever seen, very sensible and sensitive, with a little metering skills and manual mode you have total control, and can push to 100% your abilities. No surprise some of the best photographers (like Danny Clinch) still carry one around with 'em.

I could say, the only situation to avoid with a fe2 is concert photography in dark situation but there it's not about the FE2, is about every non electronic slr with digital viewfinder. And even in such an extreme situation you can switch to Aperture priority mode and still get away with some good results, thanks to the 'nuff said excellent meter.

I also have a D90s and a now a D70. Having a d70 (which i shoot a lot with) hasn't stopped me by using the FE2. Maybe the N90s. Why? Because the FE2 is so unique it just makes the perfect choice for, say, black&white photojounalism. I haven't shoot color slide in 6 months, but the FE2 is now my full time BW machine. And you'll just love to wander around with this little, useful reflex in your hands. If i had to keep only one camera i'd go for it. TRY!
Tip: on ebay it's plenty of them at an interesting price. Grab one and have some fun. Digital can wait.

I inherited my father's old Nikon FE. The meter was non-functional. After I had it repaired I ran a few rolls through it (using my 50mm f/1.8 AF Nikkor) and was very impressed at the pictures it took. The exposure lock lever isn't working for me so that slows me down when I want a different exposure and have to switch over to manual mode after taking a reading. But it's no big deal. The SB-26 works fantastically on it in either Auto mode or Manual. --Luis

I recently sold (gave away) my Nikon FE which and assorted lens. I was quite sad to see it go as I bought it second hand in about 1980 and have taken all over the world (three countries three kids) and it never missed a beat. I had it refurbished about five years ago so my oldest son could use it for his high school and university photography courses (which he topped). He now has moved to digital as I have with using a Nikon D70s (which I love). Probably would have kept the camera but for one short coming, as I have gotten older my eye sight is not what it used to be and I need reading glasses and found I couldn't use them with the FE. Still think it is one of the best manual focus 35mm cameras made.

I'm a new photographer, trying to become more knowledgeable and seeing where it will take me inthe future. Last semester I signed up for a B&W Photography class and had to get an SLR film camera. I went to get one at a camera store my professor recommended. I ended up purchasing a Nikon FE black body for $150, which I'm sort of kicking myself for because I've seen some on ebay for $40. Other than that, I love this camera. I have gotten beautiful pictures for B&W out of this almost 30 year old camera. The max shutter speed of 1000 doesn't bother me too much because I don't really take any action shots for the time being. Best thing about this camera I think is its ability to use newer nikon AF lenses, which all of mine are except 1, which is the lens I also bought at the camera store at the time (35-70mm zoom f3.5). I now have a D80 digital camera, but I mainly use my FE film for all my art photos and for my B&W that I'm taking a second semester of. I hope to get a FE2 or F3 soon, but money is holding me down right now, so I just have to wait till I find the deal of my life on ebay. I'll always have my FE! Its my first SLR, and has a place in my heart.

I've been using an FE2 for years, before that, I used a Nikon F plain prism. For a while, I tried one of the early FTN meter prisms, but didn't care for it, and went back to the plain prism. But, when my Gossen hand meter finally bit the dust, I sold the F body to a friend and switched over to the FE2, for the convenience. It's nice that it can be used manually, but I usually just set it on "A" and shoot away.

I love the thing, and it's held up marvelously well. It does seem to go through batteries faster than most FE2s, though. But $7 a year isn't a terrible burden. The FE2 is like Photoshop, in that it's capable of a lot more than I ever ask of it, but it's nice that it can do anything I could possibly ever want out of it.

My wife, who's actually the more serious photographer in the family, still uses her own "F". Some of her third-party lenses had worn out from hard use for several decades, so I recently decided to surprise her with replacements and enhancements for her lens kit. Naturally, I hit eBay for used gear. As we all know, classic Nikon equipment doesn't wear out.

If you haven't looked lately, prices on good used Nikon bodies and lenses are incredibly low now, because of yuppies trading in their expensive Nikon film gear and switching over to more expensive Nikon or Canon digital gear.

By strategic choosing of targets and bidding, I was able to buy four quality lenses for her at ridiculous prices. I even managed to get her a Micro-Nikkor 55mm f3.5 beauty, for less than $60!

Since I wanted to also be able to use the lenses with my FE2, I only went after AI and AI-S mounts. While I was at it, I bought her a little FG body for use as a purse camera. She thinks it's very cute. Then, for the price of a haircut, I bought our college-age daughter a mint-condition EM, the ultimate hipster retro camera.

My wife was thrilled to learn that her F body is now worth more than she originally paid for it. I can't say the same for the FE2, but it doesn't go nearly as cheaply as other non-F models, at least on eBay.

As a reward for my FE2's many years of honorable service, I bought it an MD-11 motor drive to wear. It likes it a lot. I didn't tell it how cheap the thing was, though- thirty bucks and change.

The photo magazines don't talk about it much, but the most expensive digital camera Nikon makes ($8,000 or so) is inherently incapable of achieving the image quality of even a Nikon EM, with Nikon glass in front of it, and modern film inside it.

I have a chrome FE that my father purchased new in 1979 and a black FM2n that he bought new in 1992. Back when he bought the FE, I lusted after an FM but had to settle for a Minolta SRT200 due to my teenager's budget. When my father passed away in 1995 I inherited his Nikon outfit, including the 2 bodies and three prime lenses (28, 50 and 100mm series E). I've since added a 28-200 Tamron zoom for casual snapshooting.

Like most people here, I've really fallen in love with the FE, but I must admit that I like the FM2n even better. I find the FE's automatic exposure to be extremely useful and accurate, but when I use it I find myself shooting too quickly, not paying enough attention to the effects of shutter speed and aperture. With the FM2n, or my old Minolta for that matter, I shoot more carefully, deciding first whether a specific shutter speed or aperture are more important for what I'm trying to achieve. Since I do a lot of informal portraiture and usually shoot at wide apertures and longish focal lengths (my 100mm is my favorite lens), the extra shutter speeds on the FM2n really help, as does the LED meter, which is easier to read in low light.

The FE is my camera of choice for travel photography, where I may not have the time to set exposure. When I don't want to carry a bagfull of gear, I'll grab the FE with the Tamron zoom and have at it. The lens isn't as sharp as my primes, but its still better than any point-and-shoot, and despite its modern AF design, it is a perfect compliment to the fast-handling FE.

I certainly agree with what everyone has said here. I've been waiting for a mint+ sample of the black FE2 for some time. Recently got one off Ebay. The sample is much, much better than mint+ as decribed. It looks like new. The person that owned it took supreme care of it. I've shot a few rolls through it and the accuracy is "dead on". This camera will go well with my F3. If you can find one, no matter what shape it's in, grab it!

I agree with the posts here. The Nikon FE is my favorite film camera. I have two: one chrome with my name engraved on it and one black. I'm going to sell my black body on e-Bay but just stumbled on this forum and thought I'd post here first. I'm going to keep half of my Nikon equipment but sell the rest. Here's the list in case anyone might be interested:

Nikon FE black body Nikon 28mm f/3.5 lens Nikon TC-200 (2x teleconverter) Nikon PK-13 auto extension ring Nikon lens reverse adaptor

Nikon EM body Nikon 43-86 f/3.8 zoom Nikon 75-150 f/3.5 zoom

Nikon F>C adaptor(F "arrow" C) Not sure what this is for. Nikon step-up ring for Nikon PL filter to avoid wide-angle vignetting Misc. Nikon metal lens hoods/shades

Condition is good to excellent for all. The black FE body shows the most wear...from love, of course! Lots of prize-winning pictures were taken with it.