The Leica M7 is the latest rangefinder camera in the nearly half century old M
line, proudly released in the Spring of 2002 and hailed by
one authority as "One
step closer to perfection." It is the first M camera with aperture priority
automation (automatic shutter speeds).
The upshot? The Leica M7 will be the most successful and best-loved Leica
ever.
Leica presents this camera as a "fast and convenient alternative to the M6,"
with "7 impressive innovations:"
- Aperture priority automation
- Redesigned shutter; now electronically controlled and quieter
- Viewfinder display of shutter speed and other information
- On/off switch
- Flash sync up to 1/1000th second with Metz flash
- Second shutter curtion flash sync
- DX coding with override
I am a rather passionate, serious amateur photographer, not a professional
camera reviewer, and I don't claim to be an expert in the field of photography. I
present this review from the standpoint of an "every man" who enjoys photography
and who likes to keep his camera with him most of the time.
This review will attempt to hit the high spots, but will not seek to rehash
the same content of Kirk Tuck's excellent
Leica M6 Review. The Leica M7 is, in my
estimation, 85% a Leica M6!
I may be sticking my neck out here, but I will assume that if you are reading
this, then you may already own a Leica M camera, but only up to an M6 Classic.
Like me, you probably didn't get the M6 TTL but are now considering the M7. My
reason is simple: If you own both an M6 Classic and M6 TTL, you'll probably buy
an M7 anyway!
Any review of the Leica M7 cannot be thorough without some discussion on its
flash capabilities. However, because I never use flash - indeed, I am almost
philosophically opposed to flash use for the style of photography that I enjoy,
and for the style of photography that the M camera fosters best - and because my
time spent with the M7 was relatively short, I will not discuss the use of flash
in this review, but will leave it to others to comment about it in the comments
section.
The Camera
The camera is (or will be) available in three viewfinder
magnifcations. The .72x magnification is usable with focal lengths as wide as
28mm, but is best suited for the 35mm and 50mm focal lenghts. The .58x is used
for wide lenses, especially nice for the 35mm and 28mm. The .85x (refered to has
the Hi Mag) is best suited for the 75, 90, and 135mm lengths. The .72x model is
available in chrome (Leica refers to it as "Silver.) as well as black, while the
other two are available only in black.
The camera was loaned to me sparkling New In the Box, complete with a 35mm f/2
Summicron Aspherical, but no user manual was sent. The light documentation that
did accompany the camera, however, outlines the major features and
significant...
Specifications
|
|
M6 Classic
|
M6 TTL
|
M7
|
| Exposure control
|
Manual |
Manual |
Aperture Priority + Manual |
| Shutter
|
1/1000 to 1+B; mechanical |
1/1000 to 4s+B; mechanical |
1/1000 to 4s in manual; 1/1000 to 32s in automatic; electronic; 2 mechanical
speeds (1/60 and 1/125) as backup |
| On/Off switch
|
n/a |
Off position on shutter dial |
Separate on/off switch |
| Viewfinder information
|
Balance between two deltas |
Balance between delta-spot-delta |
Digital display in automatic; balance between delta-spot-delta in manual;
brightness controlled relative to ambient light |
| Exposure compensation
|
n/a |
n/a |
Dial on back |
| ISO film speed setting
|
n/a |
n/a |
DX coding and manual |
| Exposure memory lock
|
n/a |
n/a |
Half depress shutter release |
| Flash control
|
1/50 sync |
TTL flash (SCA 3502); 1/50 sync |
TTL flash (SCA 3502); 1/50 sync; High speed sync with 1/250, 1/500,
1/1000 |
| Power
|
3 volts |
3 volts |
6 volts |
| Miscellaneous
|
n/a |
n/a |
Coated viewfinder windows |
Automatic Mode
I've read
opinions elsewhere that the AE mode of the M7 is best for flat or average
lighting, but I don't see the relevance between lighting situations and the use
of the M7's AE mode. Regardless of the motives of the M7 designers, I believe the
M7 will be used by experienced Leica M photographers as a manual camera that can
set the shutter speed according to what the photographer deems appropriate, not
an automatic camera that makes exposure decisions for the photographer. The
difference is subtle, but with the M7 there is little chance of a computer
second-guesing the photographer. The trick is locking in a "correct" exposure and
recomposing.
Practically speaking, there are three positions of the shutter release button.
First, the meter is activated; second, the exposure is locked into place (to
allow recomposition); and, finally, the shutter is released. A small tic mark
appears in the digital readout when the shutter speed has been locked in by
engaging the shutter release button about two thirds of the way. This is handy to
prompt the photographer that the view can be recomposed while retaining the best
shutter speed. I instantly felt comfortable with this for my first couple of
shots.
There is also a small dot that blinks when you have engaged the light meter
without film in the camera.
The lighting in my office is always the same. I know that the luminescence of
the carpet approximates that of a standard gray card. Therefore, I have always
been able to point my M6 downward and see that a "correct" exposure with ISO 400
film is 1/125th at f/2. The M7, in all its glory, has refined this reading to
1/90th with its AE control.
Confusingly, marketing literature shows the digits and balance deltas
of the LED display all at the same time! Actually, the digits (shutter speeds)
are displayed only when the machine is set to Automatic, and the deltas are
displayed when the machine's shutter is set to something else. This makes for a
clean, uncluttered display. The marketing department should have figured out
another way.
Manual Mode
In manual mode, the viewfinder display works just like it does with previous
versions of the camera. It is composed of a solid dot and a delta on either side
of the dot. When the exposure meter is reading an exposure of middle gray, only
the dot is illuminated. When the exposure settings of the camera are set to let
less light reach the film, the left delta is illuminated. The left delta points
to the right which indicates the direction to turn either the aperture ring on
the lens, or the shutter speed dial for more exposure. (This change came with the
M6 TTL; previously, the shutter dial had to be adjusted in the opposting
direction than the delta was pointing.) When both the center spot and a delta are
illuminated (indicating a half stop off), the weaker of the two will blink for
further reading accuracy.
Using the M7
The first
thing I noticed is the shutter which is more quiet than my M6 Classic,
particularly with the longer shutter speeds. This is because of the new
electronically controlled shutter. No more whiz-click-thump, as it was with 1/15
and 1/8.
I've read numerous comments that the M7 and previous models have viewfinder
flare. I haven't noticed this with my sample unit, nor even with my M6 Classic.
This might be partly due to the fact that I don't spend a lot of time looking
through the viewfinders of M cameras. Think about this: It's practically a piece
of clear glass onto which frame lines are projected. It's not meant to provide
you with any better view than you have with your naked eyes. (I suspect that
people who concentrate on the view through the M finder are more accustomed to
looking through the viewfinder of an SLR, concentrating on focus and absolutely
precise framing, and maybe the ones who complain the most about the lower,
right-hand corner being partically blocked by the 75/1.4 or 50/1.) Anyway, as
long as I can glimpse the framelines and focus patch for final, split-second
execution, I'm happy.
When leaving a
building into broad daylight with ISO 400 speed film in the camera, one tends to
stop down from wide open to f/8 or f/11. Walk back in, open it wide again. In
terms of exposure, that's all you really have to remember to do unless the
photographs need to be more contrived. I think this can lead to more uninhibited,
more spontaneous photography.
With the 35/2 Summicron ASPH lens provided with my sample unit, focusing was a
true pleasure that definitely enhanced my use of the M7. For one thing, its
mechanics are the silkiest I have encountered. Just as significant, the lens has,
IMHO, a nicely conceived focusing tab that has a concave indention that provides
a perfect interface between the lens and the finger used to focus the lens.
Speaking of the lens (about which this review is not), when did they come up
with the squarish rubber lens cap that fits over the 35mm lens shade? Nice
touch.
To speed composition for more than a few shots in the same lighting situation,
I often set the shutter speed manually according to the suggested automatic
reading. Reverting back to the old manual metering method of the M6 (actually M6
TTL because of the center dot between the two deltas), I would on occasion ask
myself, "With this way of metering, what is the need for automatic shutter speed,
anyway?" Either way, you really couldn't ask for a better combination of
automatic v. manual that is so easily selected.
All in all, using the M7 is really not much different than using any other M
body. All during the review period I felt like I was carrying my own camera
around. It just feels right at home in my hands.
Nice Features Worth Noting
- Greater potential exposure accuracy. When in AE mode, the M7 sets the
shutter speed and displays it in the viewfinder display when the shutter release
is pressed half way down. The display of automatically set shutter speeds
includes the half stops between the standard speeds e.g. 1/3, 1/6, 1/12...1/360,
1/750, as well as the standard speeds. The actual speeds set by the camera are in
tiny increments. It follows, then, that these intermediate stops can lead to
overall more accurate, more consistent photographs.
-
More
accurage shutter, even in manual mode. In manual mode with the normal range
of speeds, the shutter is more accurate than previous versions of the M because
it is electronically controlled regardless of exposure mode.
- A real on/off switch. This can save battery power, and prevent battery
draining when the camera is stored in a back but pressed up against somthing. But
see the "Gotchas" section about the on/off switch.
- Beautifully quiet shutter. Though not as quiet as the original Konica
Hexar in "Stealth" mode (in Stealth mode with the Hexar, even the photographer
often cannot hear the sound of the shutter), the M7's shutter is so quiet, so
muffled, that colleagues sitting next to me at a conference were not able to
detect that I was photographing our lecturer. This is even true for the slower
shutter speeds. With any previous M camera, there are a series of clicks and
bounces - the sounds of the completely mechanical shutter - starting as fast as
1/15th. Before the M7, many experienced M photographers could accurately identify
each and every speed of their M cameras merely by the sound that the shutter
makes. With the M7, this is probably no longer true.
- Rewind lever. One small improvement that I'm pleased to see is the
hinged thumb catch of the wind lever. It no longer skuffs the top plate. I doubt
this would have ever made any functional - or even tactile - difference, but it
is Leica afterall, and we Leica users tend to be fussy about little things.
- Larger shutter dial that turns in consistent direction with aperture
ring. Although the larger shutter/control dial came along with the M6 TTL, I
thought it was worth mentioning. The size makes it much easier to turn with the
edge of your right index finger while you're looking through the viewfinder. Even
better, the direction it is turned is consistent with the direction the aperture
ring is turned. And you know what direction to turn because of the off-balance
deltas that point in the direction to turn to make them balanced. With previous M
cameras, the shutter dial was turned in the opposite direction.
- It's still a Leica M. No mode selection wheels, no LCD displays, no
menus to wade through, no plastic feel. Same solid feel and sturdiness, same
simple viewfinder. Same faultless lens mount. It's still a Leica M!
Gotchas
As with any camera, not everything can be perfect. Here are a few things about
the Leica M7 that I believe should be improved upon:
- Blinking dot for manual ISO setting. For the majority of my exposures
with the M7 during the month that I used it, I set the ISO/DX dial on the back to
DX (automatically set ISO speed), which meant that there wasn't a blinking dot
within the shutter speed display. Some people have found the blinking dot
annoying and distracting when the ISO speed is set manually.
- Film canister difficult to remove. Because of the electrical DX
contacts which bear against it, the film canister fits more snugly inside the
camera, so it is more difficult to remove when changing film, especially when
you're in a hurry. As is my habit with my M6, I hold the new film load in my
right hand, ready to go, and the camera body in the left hand with the base plate
resting precariously between the index and middle fingers of the same hand. With
a light shake, the exposed roll will fall right into my right palm and I'm back
in school in a matter of seconds. My grandfather worked as a brakeman for the
railroad in the 30s. He said he could stand along a moving freight car and roll a
cigarette with one hand while holding on to the train with the other. If he could
do that, then I ought to be able to change film in my Leica M without having to
set anything down.
- ISO/DX selector dial poorly designed. The ISO/DX selector dial does
not stay put. Once when I reloaded film, I noticed that the dial had turned two
clicks (2/3 of a stop) in the + direction, and I had just finished a roll of 100
speed slide film. Who knows how many of my shots will be over exposed by 2/3rd of
a stop. This is a definite design flaw.
- On/off switch causes several second delay. When the unit is first
turned on there is a several second delay before the shutter will work. During
this delay, the DX detected ISO speed is displayed in the viewfinder (incidently,
if DX is not set, then the display of the manually set ISO speed will blink).
This can definitely cause the loss of an important photograph. The
solution, of course, is never to turn the camera off, and never store it in such
a way that something can rest against the shutter release button to cause the
meter to stay on and thus drain the battery.
- Shutter readout hard to glimpse with glasses. I'm an eyeglass wearer,
so I can barely see all four frame lines when the 35mm lens is mounted. I've
learned to live with this. But, I have to alter the position of the M7 slightly
to look toward the bottom of the viewfinder display (below the bottom frame line)
to see what shutter speed is set. Interestingly, in manual mode when the
delta-dot-delta is displayed instead in the same position, I don't have
the problem. It's a cognitive thing, I think. A "picuture" can be interpreted in
the peripheral part of the vision when you have to look more directly at letters
and numbers.
- Naked PC terminal !! I own four M bodies, two of which the M4-2 and
the M4-P) have two ports on the back (one for electronic flash, and one for
bulbs). The other two (both M6) have only one, as does the M7. Each of these five
cameras used to have little black plastic plugs for each port to block out dust
and moisture. As with my own cameras, it took about two days to lose the plug on
my loaner M7. They just will not stay plugged in. As small as they are, they
ought to attach them to the camera like little port-hole doors or something.
- Changing film with camera set to Automatic will usually cause a
many-second delay when you're firing off your blanks to wind the film to frame
one. I usually have the lens pointed down, or at least cupped in my hands, or
even with the lens cap fitted. This means that the camera, in automatic mode,
will take a 32 second exposure of the inside of the lens cap. The solution is to
twist the shutter dial to 1000 (1 click clockwise), even while the shutter is
open.
Summary
Even with the few gotchas, I love this camera so much that I intend to buy one
in the near future. It's faster, and in automatic mode, I have no less control
over the exposure than with the M6. I feel that I actually have more control and
better accuracy. Simply point it first to something that "ought to be middle
gray" and press the shutter down half way. Recompose, finalize focus, and
click... got it.
My Background
I work and play in Anchorage, Alaska. I've been taking, processing, and
printing pictures since 1970, and I've been using Leica M rangefinders since
1992. Right now I use two M6 bodies - a Leitz and a Leica Classic. I also use the
R6 for macro and other types of photography. I work as a Systems Manager in a
small office, and I am the moderator of the Leica Photography Q&A discussion
forum. I have never taken pictures professionally. To see more of my work, check
out my home site at www.alaska.net/~rowlett.
Where to Buy the Leica M7
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Related Reviews
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Text and pictures copyright 2002
Tony Rowlett
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