Photographing a FULL MOON

Anyone know the tricks of using double exposures to place a full

moon in the upper corner of a photo? I would use my 100-400 IS

lens for the moon part. Any guidelines on how to expose for it??

Thanks

The moon is lit by full sunlight, so the correct exposure is the same as for sunlit subjects during the day. If the sky where you are placing the double-exposed moon is dark (i.e., the rest of the shot also done at night) just use the Sunny 16 rule: aperture f/16, shutter the reciprocal of the ISO film speed. Some people prefer giving the moon an extra stop of exposure, since it isn't as reflective as an "average" subject, if so you'd just use f/11 instead of f/16...<P>

A common way of doing what you're after, is to shoot an entire roll of film with the moon in various places in the frame, then wind it back and go after your other subject(s). Just keep notes as to where you place the moon in each frame! The other caveat to that method is to be sure you index the film to the same spot when you load it both times, to ensure registration of the frames (since the moon shots will leave the rest of the frame essentially unexposed, this isn't a big problem, just index the same sprocket hole.)

I have heard that you need to underexpose by one stop each time you expose on one frame.

I have not done this personally myself, and have taken a nice pic of a double exposed full moon without using this method. However, it was on print film. I suspect that slide wont be that forgiving if this is the correct technique for this method.

<I>I have heard that you need to underexpose by one stop each time you expose on one frame.</I><P>

That's true with "normal" subjects, in "normal" light. In the case of the moon, however, while you're giving the moon normal exposure, the rest of the frame is getting essentially none. Then, if the 2nd exposure is also a night shot, with black sky where the moon goes, that area is then getting little or no exposure during the 2nd shot. IOW, you're right but night may change the rules...

just my 2 cents: if shooting the moon with small aperture (f/11-f/16), wouldn't that create the star effect?? which I believe, in this case, is something you'd not want to do??

I like to use the double exposure method (rewind the entire roll and re-shoot) First, let me explain more about double exposures: if the entire scene is in the same light, and there are no dark areas in the frame, then you "underexpose" so the multiple exposures add up, but if there are dark areas (like night shots), then you don't need to do this, if the extra exposures only cover the dark areas (like adding a full moon) Anytime you try to add another subject (by double exposing) it will only show up against a dark background (an area of the film that hasn't been exposed already... or is at least fairly dark) I assume you are wanting to use a night shot to add the moon to, so here's some ideas: just after sunset (and before sunrise) there is enough light in the sky to expose the scene, or try using the moonlight itself to expose the scene. Also, it is easier to shoot all the night scenes first, then add the moon later (so you can be free to compose how you want), but take notes: draw out a bunch of small frames on a paper and number them like the frames of film. As you take each night scene, draw a small circle where you want the moon to be, then use this as a reference for the moon exposures (after you have rewound and reloaded the film again) The nice thing is by starting several nights before full moon, you can take your time and try different night shots, then rewind/reload and shoot the whole roll of moon shots all at once. In the few nights before full moon, you can do the moonlit scenes also. Try to make the scene believable... think about the angle of the moon and the shadows in the scene... moon to the side (like you said) is best, and on the side that looks natural with the direction of the shadows. I have taken many moonlit landscapes, and many test exposures of the moon through different lenses, but haven't actually tried this myself yet... we will learning together... start now and there's lots of time to shoot several rolls, then do the moon exposers next full moon. If you want to use the guidelines suggested (sunny16 or sunny11) then the moon must be high i n the sky (this also assures that nothing else gets in the frame, like trees or hills) wait until late... midnight. I use a 400mm lens for my moon shots, and just about any lens I want for the night scenes. Even with the 400mm, the moon looks small, but this is also more believable and less obviuos "trick". E-mail me and I'll give you specific exposure ideas (or search photo.net ... I have posted these many times before) ( photonut1960@sbcglobal.net ) "Captain Moonlight"

This is a good site on shooting the moon. I posted a question about

moon photos with some other good links in it too. Was just coming here to reread some info, and noticed your question. hth.

 

http://www.danheller.com/moon/html

I'll second E E's recommendation on Dan Heller's site. I found it to be well written and helpful, especially for an amateur like myself. However, E E's previous link is broke. Use

 

http://www.danheller.com/moon.html

 

Cheers!

 

- min

We have a short article here. <a href="http://www.photo.net/nature/sunmoon">http://www.photo.net/nature/sunmoon</a>